lophix

iTrader: (3)

Hey
I just did a search, and maybe I'm the only one that has this problem.
Earlier on this year, I had a problem with my starter when the weather started getting cold. It would make a bad grinding noise and then when i tried again, it would start fine. So I had it replaced. The second one I got had the same problem. So I had it replaced under warranty again and it worked. then when I got to houston this june, it started making the grinding noise again. I had it replaced again under warranty. Then I came to Kansas, and now that the weather is getting pretty cold, it's started grinding again before starting. I'm a lil tired of swapping starters. Anyone have the same problems? Anywhere I can actually get a "perfect" starter that wont quit on me when the going gets cold?
Next, whats the easiest way of changing tranny fluid? I want to change mine to redline or valvoline maxlife before I return to houston over the christmas.

Finally, what exacty are the symptoms of exhaust studs going? Sumpth under my car makes a kinda crack sound when i take off from 1st gear and then doesnt do it again once I switch gears to 2nd and so on...only when I take off from first.? Is this a symptom of exhaust studs going or just my mounts as i initially thought?

Thanks.

L.

jwtarbaj

Is the starter a Nissan or is it a lower cost aftermarket. I had mine replaced and the damn thing was no good in like 10K miles. I replaced it with a Nissan one and have had no problems. Also, who is installing them the dealer or a shop? Maybe you have something wrong with the teeth on your flywheel?!? {grasps at straws}

Is this a manual? From what you said about switching gears I think it is. Get yourself a Chiltons or FSM and you will never have to ask about simple stuff like this. Looking at the tranny where the shift linkage comes out and goes towards the shifter, follow towards the front of the car and there is a drain plug just a few inches away. It is unique because it is not on the bottom but goes in on the side. Drain from here. There is a fill plug that fits a 1/2 inch socket drive but it is messy to use this. Fill through the speedo pinion it is much easier. It is located on the top of the tranny, looking from the drivers side fender it is the top right side of the tranny housing. Chiltons says it takes 10 pints which is 5 quarts. Make sure you have 6 or 7 in case of an accidental spill. Pull the filler plug and keep adding fluid until it starts to trickle out of the filler.

Typically the only symptom of bad studs is a ticking or tapping sound when the engine is cold. It seems to go away as the manifolds warm and mate back to the heads. It is easier to just look at the manifolds and if there is no nut where the holes are for the studs you have broken studs. I couldn't say what the crack sound is. If I heard it I might be more helpful.

lophix

iTrader: (3)

Definitely a lower cost after market starter that I got with warranty from Oreilly. I was told that they were prone to going bad. Well time to go OEM. I suppose it is considerably more expensive than an aftermarket one.

jwtarbaj

It was almost $400 installed at the dealer. Not cheap but it seems to be worth it. I have come to the conclusion through past experience that only genuine OEM stuff is OK when it comes to anything electrical. All the stuff I've had trouble with was low cost aftermarket.

mykizism

Hey man, i Have an extra OEM starter if you want one.. its from my swap few months back.. By the way.. automatic starter will work on a manual tranny

lophix

iTrader: (3)

sweeeet!!!!! Aiight my cousin's gonna help me pick them up after his finals next thursday. Let me know how much you want for em and if you're gonna be free that day or what day's best. Thanks a lot!!

95maxima

i was having the same problem with my starter. got one from autozone ($140US) and got a shadetree mechanic to put it in for $40. i watched him throughout the entire process which helped because the dang starter would start, but it would still make that grinding noise. a week later. i went to the autozone, took the starter out myself, swapped it out for a new one since it had a lifetime warranty. and the new one starts perfectly. i guess the 1st starter was damaged since they are remanufactured and not brand new

avusblue92se

i also have had this problem now for a while. i am going to swap out my duralast starter with another one from the autozone. this will be my last time trying this, and then i am going to buy one form nissan. $400 dollars for putting a starter on sounds ridiculous. it is two bolts and a wire connection, and takes about 15 minutes tops.

ShOwMaX

im with you. 400 bux for a starter and install is insane. Like you said....its a 15 min job. You can even drive to your local auto store and do it right there in the parking lot then you'll save a trip returning the core.
Also, those autozone starters are ****. I remember when i still had my 90se....in one year....i replaced the starter like 4 times. I guess thats why they have lifetime warranty.
just my .02 !!

jwtarbaj

The exact price was $381.02 for the starter replacement.

1.5 hrs labor 112.50
Starter 306.57
core return -60.00

bull**** charge (shop supplies) 6.75

This is for a brand new genuine Nissan starter. The original lasted for 9.5 years why wouldn't the replacement last at least 5 years.

You all can keep on replacing those junk rebuilt Autozone starters every couple months. The hassle is NOT worth the savings in my opinion!

95maxima

1.5 hours of labor??? to replace the starter??? danm, the very 1st time i replaced mine it only took me 30min. i hate them moneygrubbin' people that are out just to steal your money!!!

jwtarbaj

Yeah the dealer will always be expen$ive. Unfortunately there are not a lot of import shops in the greater Detroit. There is not a quality one I have found yet. He!! the sad part is at $75/hr labor charge they are the cheapest Nissan Dealer around me.