QueensNY

I'm have a slight problem on my maxima.I just bought a set of 6x9" for my rear deck and a set of 4" for my 91' Maxima. I been through the search and I know about Craig's write-up on the speaker installation(have it stapled in my maxima mod folder ). I had Circuit City install my Kenwood Head Unit and they said they bypassed the amps to the Bose speakers so i would be able to run the system throught the Bose speakers till i installed the aftermarket speakers but what I'm trying to figure out is do I just take the Bose speakers out and just connect the aftermarket speakers to the existing wires running into the speakers or do I have some more work to be done ? Oh and does anybody know anything about Pyramid Speakers because my cousin got some for his Altima and they dont sound too bad even though they were cheap as hell.

tafan321

you can keep the existing wires to hook up your new speakers but the way i figure it is if you already have speaker wire just might as well use it and run new wire

Pearl90gxe

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS REPLACE THE SPEAKERS WITHIN
EACH BOSE ENCLOSURE WITH THE EXISTING WIRES, RUNNING NEW WIRE IS TIME CONSUMING AND UNNECESSARY, ( REMOVING MOLDINGS AND STUFF), ALSO YOU DIDNT NEED TO PAY FOR THAT BYPASS I COULD HAVE TOLD YOU HOW TO...

CMD89

I'm in the same situation as QueensNY, I want to keep the same wires as well. However, how do you hook up new speakers to the old wires. The old wires have a male/female connection. I read Craig's info and the section on how to hook up the speakers did not make any sense to me, I found it to be confusing. I understand how to install the speakers, its just hooking up the wires that confuses me.

Thanks

Chris

Pearl90gxe

HERE IS HOW YOUR REWIRE THE BOSE FACTORY SPEAKER WHEN YOUR AMPS GO BUST AND YOU WANT TO USE THE ORIGINAL WIRING (AFTERMARKET HU)

You need something to cut the wires and strip them, you'll also need a boltdriver or some other tool for those little bolts in the speaker, and some black electrical tape.

1. Remove the speakers from the car and open them up. Once you remove the insulation you should see the speaker is connected to a little amp there are 2 wires leading from the amp to the speaker .There is a wire harness that has four wires connected to the amp. (BTW wires are covered with this sticky piece of foam just rip it off)

2.Disconnect the 2 speaker wires , make sure you know which one is postive and which is negative ( marked on speaker) then cut them off the amp at the point where they are connected. ( Negative wire has a diff connector than positive so you can easily tell them apart)
Strip about an inch of insulation off the end. Now you have the 4 diff. colored wires connected to the other side.

3.At the spot where each wire is soddered to the board you 'll see a little label for it. Reading from the top you'll see S+, S-, B+, and Ground which is a black wire. Make sure you remember which color wire is S+ and S-. Now cut all 4 wires where they connect, unscrew and remove the amp

4.Cover the ends of the B+ and Ground wires with electrical tape. They're used to power the amp we removed , so we don't need em. Now take the S+ wire, strip about an inch of insulation off and connect your positive speaker wire, cover the exposed area with tape. Do the same with the negative. Now the power is wired directly from the HU to the speakers.

5. Unscrew speaker and replace with new one , then connect the postive and negative cords as marked on your speaker. You might want to use the foam spacer piece on the old speaker to hold the new one more securely. Then just replace the insulation and close the case. Repeat for the others then just pop them back in the doors or the back and enjoy.

Pit5Bull

Replacing the BOSE speakers with aftermarket stuff doesn't seem like too good of an idea. When I first purchased my 89SE 5sp (going on 2 years ago now) it had the BOSE rear speaker/amp assemblies attached to a pair of Kenwood 3-Way 6x9s, and it sounded like sh@$t!!! As soon as I got the right instructions on how to rip the stuff out, I did so (do a search on the board, you'll find it). Also, I'd recommend that you redo all of the wiring so that you get the best quality sound and so that you don't make the mistake of wiring your speakers up to something that it shouldn't be wired to, possibly causing damage to your new speakers. You can take a look at my website for pics of how I rewired my system. It took a bit of time to do, but it sounds so much better than before!!! I did my homework, asked a lot of questions, collected the stuff I needed, made a plan and went to work. I still need to replace my passenger door speaker with the new Audiobahn 6.5" 3-Way Coaxial speaker I bought (been unmotivated since my car got hit on that side), but you'll be happy with the results.

BTW - Leave that Pyramid crap alone. I was using that stuff when I was broke and in high school (that was going on 20 years ago, sonny ).

Pearl90gxe

you said the speakers sounded bad cuz the amp was still connected but those instructions are for putting a new speaker in after disabling the amp.. mine sounds great with some sony xplod 6x9s

AET

Do what Pearl descibed. I did the same thing, cutting the wires as they go into the amp, stripping about 1" off the speaker signal wires and clamping new connectors on the end, cutting off the power and ground wires for the amps, and running the new connectors to the speakers. The stock mounting box for the 6 x 9's works great, no need to lose it.

CMD89

Pearl90GXE

Thanks for the informative write up. I have an aftermarket HU with the adapter so that I could use the bose speakers and amps.

Anyways I think that its only the amps that have gone bad in the front, so could I follow your write up, but instead of wiring the power to new speakers could I wire power to the existing bose speakers without the amps.

If that is not possible and I need to purchase some new speakers could I just replace the front two and follow your write up on the rewire; but still keep the rear ones stock since they are not giving me any problems(yet)?

Thanks

Pearl90gxe

YOU CAN USE THE STOCK FRONT SPEAKERS AFTER THE AMP BYPASS, THATS WHAT I'M USING NOW FOR MY FRONTS (ABOUT TO DO 6X9 CUSTOM FRONT), I BYPASSED BOTH AMPS

CMD89

Pearl90GXE

Thanks for the great write up, it helped out a lot. I just got some time to mess with it today on my lunch break. Anyways in you initial write up on #3 you said that the wires read S+, S-, etc. But mine read IN+, IN-, S+, S-, etc. Did you mean to tape off the B+ and ground and connect the IN+ witht the S+ wire going to the speaker and connect the IN- with the S- wire going to the speaker. Because you said connect S+ with the + speaker wire, but S+ is the positive speaker wire. So should you connect it to the IN+, and the same for the negative ones.

My amp reads from top to bottom:
IN+ ---> I guess is power to the amp?
IN- ---> Neg. something (I don't know what it is?)
S+ ---> goes to the pos. on the speaker
B+
S- ---> goes to the neg. on the speaker
Ground

So should I connect the IN+ to the S+, and the IN- to the S-. And still tape off the B+ and the ground.

Does the speaker need to grounded?

Thanks
Chris

Pearl90gxe

sorry about that... tape speaker positive to in+ and speaker negative to in- tape of the ground and the b+ wire...

CMD89

Pearl90GXE,

I tried that bypass and I could not get it to work. This is what I did:

Stripped and connected the S+ and the IN+ wires
Stripped and connected the S- and the IN- wires
Did not strip but just taped off the B+ and Ground wires as I cut them from the amp.

I tried just the passenger side and no sound came out of the speaker. I tried switching the wires around some with no luck. I even ended up blowing my fuse once.

Still no luck. Did I do anything wrong? Any ideas? Please help.

Pearl90gxe

You must have done something wrong , I took my speaker out to make sure i told you the right thing and it was right. connect the speaker+ to the in+ and speaker- to In- and toss the amp. If it's not working (and you blew a fuse) you didnt connect the wires correctly.

Soloacoustic