motor mounts
i don't currently have the part numbers, but mcmaster.com sells 80 and 90. This comes in two parts which you mix together yourself. It's up to you how stiff you want the mounts, I would go with the 90. Most people go with either 80 or 90.
thanks! i searched through here and finally found something, control+f works wonders. they have many different durometers. i'll be going with 94. here are the links i found http://www.nx2k.com/nx2000/hd_mounts.htm
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaver...-r/mounts.html
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaver...-r/mounts.html
http://www.mcmaster.com/
I would stay with stuff in the 80s. the 90 is just too hard.. almost plastic.
the 87 or whatever I'm using now is so hard that the whole car shakes at idle. didn't feel a thing with my brand new OE mounts, or even my ooooold OE mounts. only with the urethane.
the 87 or whatever I'm using now is so hard that the whole car shakes at idle. didn't feel a thing with my brand new OE mounts, or even my ooooold OE mounts. only with the urethane.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
I would stay with stuff in the 80s. the 90 is just too hard.. almost plastic.
the 87 or whatever I'm using now is so hard that the whole car shakes at idle. didn't feel a thing with my brand new OE mounts, or even my ooooold OE mounts. only with the urethane.
I would stay with stuff in the 80s. the 90 is just too hard.. almost plastic.
the 87 or whatever I'm using now is so hard that the whole car shakes at idle. didn't feel a thing with my brand new OE mounts, or even my ooooold OE mounts. only with the urethane.
Matt, what do you think? I think I would like it if I just get rid of my mounts and weld the motor to my frame.
hey matt, did you fill yours or completely hollow them out and fill them from there? would it make much of a difference if you hollowed it out and filled it with the 80 compared to just filling it without hollowing it?
James, the rubber in the mounts from the factory is (just a wild guess, but you get the point) about 40 durometer. you can easily shove your thumbnail into it.
with the 80 durometer I used, the stuff is hard enough that I can barely put an indention in it with my thumbnail when I press so hard it's hurting..
the 94 is another step past that I and I highly doubt if it will make any difference, other than to make the ride even harsher.
As for how much I filled, I removed ALL of the rubber inside using blowtorch, grinding stones on a grinder, wire brush, etc etc. there was hardly any rubber left- showing metal over about 80% of the surface.
with the 80 durometer I used, the stuff is hard enough that I can barely put an indention in it with my thumbnail when I press so hard it's hurting..
the 94 is another step past that I and I highly doubt if it will make any difference, other than to make the ride even harsher.
As for how much I filled, I removed ALL of the rubber inside using blowtorch, grinding stones on a grinder, wire brush, etc etc. there was hardly any rubber left- showing metal over about 80% of the surface.
Sounds like you guys are repairing the existing mounts somehow, is there are writeup on how to do this? I am guessing that this procedure is either easier than replacing the mounts or your going for the firmer mount? I think mine might be going bad, when I shift into drive the whole car shakes and especially the rear deck vibrates like heck. Does that sound about right? Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
Thanks
there's about 500 things that will help wheel hop. new struts are the most important. engine mounts also help.
89sks, do a little reading on urethane engine mounts. there's a TON of info out there, on this forum and dozens of others.
89sks, do a little reading on urethane engine mounts. there's a TON of info out there, on this forum and dozens of others.
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