supercharger kit
06-06-2003, 09:16 PM
#81
Originally posted by N34JZ
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
06-07-2003, 12:30 AM
#82
Originally posted by N34JZ
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
Izzy they won't make a kit and if they do they will charge us $6000.00 instead of $3000.00. Biggest thing they have to develop is the mounting bracket for the blower.
06-07-2003, 12:58 AM
#83
Originally posted by N34JZ
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
well now the secret is out, ask away, send all emails to bastoculo@aol.com
06-07-2003, 08:36 AM
#84
Originally posted by D-sta
Well from what I've seen and talked with other people on the org they agree that the S/C is less problematic than a turbo set-up.
Well from what I've seen and talked with other people on the org they agree that the S/C is less problematic than a turbo set-up.
06-09-2003, 12:31 PM
#89
Originally posted by spoken4525
in responce to that photo chopped 3rd gen max, it also had a ignition coil cover, leading me to believe it was a vq motor.
in responce to that photo chopped 3rd gen max, it also had a ignition coil cover, leading me to believe it was a vq motor.
06-09-2003, 02:01 PM
#90
Originally posted by crazy4maxima
thing is you can drive with a messed up turbo, but once the s/c doesnt work, you gonna have headaches. but to be quiet frank, for those ve with out abs, like myself and diego and jason n34jz, how can we get a custom set up from stillen. how many have to be pre ordered? call me stupid, but i mean it looks like a ve and vq have the same intake setup. but the question is the mounting of the s.c. and the belts.
thing is you can drive with a messed up turbo, but once the s/c doesnt work, you gonna have headaches. but to be quiet frank, for those ve with out abs, like myself and diego and jason n34jz, how can we get a custom set up from stillen. how many have to be pre ordered? call me stupid, but i mean it looks like a ve and vq have the same intake setup. but the question is the mounting of the s.c. and the belts.
just put down what you're smoking...or at least pass it..sheesh!
06-09-2003, 07:03 PM
#92
Originally posted by awsm66
I can tell you dont live in the south. There is no way I would sacrifice ac for a SC. Besides it would probably cost the same to go to a shop and have a custom turbo installed and you would have way more power than a SC.
The drawbacks to it on our cars is that the VE was only made for 3 years and there isnt a market for it. I guarantee that only maybe one person on this forum would actually pay the 3 or 4k that Stillen would want. I mean if they were going to pay that then they would have a turbo installed...how many expensive group buys have fallen through on here?
I can tell you dont live in the south. There is no way I would sacrifice ac for a SC. Besides it would probably cost the same to go to a shop and have a custom turbo installed and you would have way more power than a SC.
The drawbacks to it on our cars is that the VE was only made for 3 years and there isnt a market for it. I guarantee that only maybe one person on this forum would actually pay the 3 or 4k that Stillen would want. I mean if they were going to pay that then they would have a turbo installed...how many expensive group buys have fallen through on here?
BUT I'd definately rather have an SC then a turbo for a daily driver. Superchargers give you monster torque low in the rpm range and it comes on and builds immediatly right off idle. This is not true with the Stillen unit since it is acts more like a belt driven turbo. But either Roots or Lysolm SC units build power right off idle. For driving around town, this is where you want the power. For carving canyons, autoxing passing cars without needing to downshift this is what you want.
If you want top speed, or the quickest 1/4 where you are keeping the engine in the turbos sweet spot (3500+ rpm) then maybe a turbo will do better for you.
I've had a supercharged car (not a Maxima) for about 8 years now and the wide, smooth power band is adictive. There is no kick like a turbo, but there's no lag either. And that's where the turbo "kick" comes from. Waiting for the boost to spool......
As far as money to develop a system.... mechanically either is pretty simple. The hardest part of a turbo install is ALWAYS the manifold. The hardest part of the SC install is hanging the SC in line with the crank pulley without losing you AC, PS or Alt.
The best solution for an SC would be to hang either the alt off the back side of the engine and the SC off the front. This way you keep the intake and intercooler runs the shortest. I would suggest using a Air to Water intercooler even with the availability of outside air so close (I'm used to a mid-engined car where there is no easy outside air). Running the SC where the AC lives now lets it run underneath the exhaust manifold.
All we need now is someone to run down to a junk yard a buy an Eaton M62 with internal wastegate from an old T-Bird, or some Pontiac SSE model to try it out.
Any Volunteers?
92 SE
89 MR2 Supercharged (200 RWHP, 2600 lbs)
88 Ford Aerostar (tow and parts chaser)
06-09-2003, 07:29 PM
#93
Originally posted by awsm66
yeah because its less boost. I mean what can you get out of the stillen 5 or 6 lbs of boost. They make it low boost so there will be no or at least very little problems.
I could be completely wrong though since I havent really studied it but it makes sense to me. Cars can usually take a certain amout of boost with significantly increasing the fuel delivery and such. Where you run into problems is when you want to boost so much that you have to increase fuel and change timing and such.
again though I am not really knowledgeable about these things so I could be way off.
yeah because its less boost. I mean what can you get out of the stillen 5 or 6 lbs of boost. They make it low boost so there will be no or at least very little problems.
I could be completely wrong though since I havent really studied it but it makes sense to me. Cars can usually take a certain amout of boost with significantly increasing the fuel delivery and such. Where you run into problems is when you want to boost so much that you have to increase fuel and change timing and such.
again though I am not really knowledgeable about these things so I could be way off.
The same basic rules apply to a turbo. Changing the exhaust side impellor size (and shape) will make it spin either faster or slower for the same exhaust volume. Using a small turbo will help to eliminate turbo lag, but also limit the amount of boost you can safely use (the heat vs. boost thing again). Use too large a turbo and you increase the amount of potential useable boost available, but also increase the likely hood of turbo lag. This is one of the MAIN reasons SC's are seen as easier to implement then turbos. Proper sizing of the turbo is critical.
Just as an example, my MR2 has a Roots type blower and an Air to Air IC and I run 14 psi. This is good for running all day long in city or freeway driving, autocrosses and canyon carving. HOWEVER, I've melted one engine at a track day. Using an Air to Water IC and the same boost I would probably see 10-15 more available hp at the rear wheels. Using a larger blower would make the same boost while generating less heat.
I'm not sure if the Stillen kit comes with any kind of IC, but if it doesn't you'll need one. Air to Water is the preferred method. Air to Air is cheaper.
Either is also going to need some black boxes to fool the car into running right. You'll possibly also need larger injectors and/or fuel pump. You definately need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. These will raise the fuel pressure about 1 psi for every 1 pound of boost.
In either case, if you want to run over 6 psi you'll want to decrease the compression of the engine by either using a thicker head gasket then stock or using a dished piston set.
06-09-2003, 07:53 PM
#94
Originally posted by shoult
In either case, if you want to run over 6 psi you'll want to decrease the compression of the engine by either using a thicker head gasket then stock or using a dished piston set.
In either case, if you want to run over 6 psi you'll want to decrease the compression of the engine by either using a thicker head gasket then stock or using a dished piston set.
06-09-2003, 09:11 PM
#95
Originally posted by shoult
ARRGGHHHH!!! Just cause Stillen wants to keep their warranty claims down doesn't mean you can't get more boost from it. To either raise or lower the boost you just change the pulley sizes. It works JUST LIKE a bycicle. Change the gears on the bicycle and the wheel (SC) spins faster or slower for the same peddle (engine) speed. The only other thing to consider is how much air the SC can flow. As you compress air you create heat. Use to small a unit and spin it to fast and you get to a point where you're making more heat then useable boost.
The same basic rules apply to a turbo. Changing the exhaust side impellor size (and shape) will make it spin either faster or slower for the same exhaust volume. Using a small turbo will help to eliminate turbo lag, but also limit the amount of boost you can safely use (the heat vs. boost thing again). Use too large a turbo and you increase the amount of potential useable boost available, but also increase the likely hood of turbo lag. This is one of the MAIN reasons SC's are seen as easier to implement then turbos. Proper sizing of the turbo is critical.
Just as an example, my MR2 has a Roots type blower and an Air to Air IC and I run 14 psi. This is good for running all day long in city or freeway driving, autocrosses and canyon carving. HOWEVER, I've melted one engine at a track day. Using an Air to Water IC and the same boost I would probably see 10-15 more available hp at the rear wheels. Using a larger blower would make the same boost while generating less heat.
I'm not sure if the Stillen kit comes with any kind of IC, but if it doesn't you'll need one. Air to Water is the preferred method. Air to Air is cheaper.
Either is also going to need some black boxes to fool the car into running right. You'll possibly also need larger injectors and/or fuel pump. You definately need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. These will raise the fuel pressure about 1 psi for every 1 pound of boost.
In either case, if you want to run over 6 psi you'll want to decrease the compression of the engine by either using a thicker head gasket then stock or using a dished piston set.
ARRGGHHHH!!! Just cause Stillen wants to keep their warranty claims down doesn't mean you can't get more boost from it. To either raise or lower the boost you just change the pulley sizes. It works JUST LIKE a bycicle. Change the gears on the bicycle and the wheel (SC) spins faster or slower for the same peddle (engine) speed. The only other thing to consider is how much air the SC can flow. As you compress air you create heat. Use to small a unit and spin it to fast and you get to a point where you're making more heat then useable boost.
The same basic rules apply to a turbo. Changing the exhaust side impellor size (and shape) will make it spin either faster or slower for the same exhaust volume. Using a small turbo will help to eliminate turbo lag, but also limit the amount of boost you can safely use (the heat vs. boost thing again). Use too large a turbo and you increase the amount of potential useable boost available, but also increase the likely hood of turbo lag. This is one of the MAIN reasons SC's are seen as easier to implement then turbos. Proper sizing of the turbo is critical.
Just as an example, my MR2 has a Roots type blower and an Air to Air IC and I run 14 psi. This is good for running all day long in city or freeway driving, autocrosses and canyon carving. HOWEVER, I've melted one engine at a track day. Using an Air to Water IC and the same boost I would probably see 10-15 more available hp at the rear wheels. Using a larger blower would make the same boost while generating less heat.
I'm not sure if the Stillen kit comes with any kind of IC, but if it doesn't you'll need one. Air to Water is the preferred method. Air to Air is cheaper.
Either is also going to need some black boxes to fool the car into running right. You'll possibly also need larger injectors and/or fuel pump. You definately need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. These will raise the fuel pressure about 1 psi for every 1 pound of boost.
In either case, if you want to run over 6 psi you'll want to decrease the compression of the engine by either using a thicker head gasket then stock or using a dished piston set.
now what did any of this have to do with my post? Did you even read it or just reply and my post happen to be the one you replied to? I know you can up the boost on the stillen kit but thats NOT what we were talking about. I was saying the reason no one really has trouble with the stillen KIT is maybe because it is relatively low boost and research went into the kit to make sure it worked right WITH the pulley it comes with. I bet that you will have problems with the stillen if you change the kit by adding a different pulley and upping the boost. At that point you would have to change other stuff (fuel, timing etc. just like you stated in your post) and uh oh then you would be testing and tuning just like the turbo guys...do you see my point now...if you want to play you have to pay and paying is sometimes in headaches and tuning.
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