For you that have changed your timing belt.. read this...
For you that have changed your timing belt.. read this...
This is long and kind of confusing, but bear with it, it is important.. thanks 
we are puttin this new belt on, it has the markings on it of where the dots on the gears should fall in between on the teeth right? well the cam gears are matching up, yet the crank gear was off to the left one notch and also the the left one notch of matching up to the marker below the crank gear.. basically the crank gear seemed like it was off one to the left.. so i adjusted it and moved it to the right one notch, so everything lined up pretty much perfect.. and then we put the harmonic balancer back on, and you know how there are those 5 marks are there, the left most being yellow (not sure if that designated TDC) BUT where it is right NOW is the second mark over from the left... so i need to know if i should move the crank gear BACK to the left a notch so the mark on the balancer lines up with the left most mark on the top timing cover, yet throwing it back off from the mark on the belt and marker notch underneath... or should i leave it where it is and leave it with the balancer being at the second notch from the left... thanks in advance...
btw.. got the JDM engine.. had to change manifolds because the peice that comes off the exaust manifold isnt there on the JDM one.. intersting..

we are puttin this new belt on, it has the markings on it of where the dots on the gears should fall in between on the teeth right? well the cam gears are matching up, yet the crank gear was off to the left one notch and also the the left one notch of matching up to the marker below the crank gear.. basically the crank gear seemed like it was off one to the left.. so i adjusted it and moved it to the right one notch, so everything lined up pretty much perfect.. and then we put the harmonic balancer back on, and you know how there are those 5 marks are there, the left most being yellow (not sure if that designated TDC) BUT where it is right NOW is the second mark over from the left... so i need to know if i should move the crank gear BACK to the left a notch so the mark on the balancer lines up with the left most mark on the top timing cover, yet throwing it back off from the mark on the belt and marker notch underneath... or should i leave it where it is and leave it with the balancer being at the second notch from the left... thanks in advance...
btw.. got the JDM engine.. had to change manifolds because the peice that comes off the exaust manifold isnt there on the JDM one.. intersting..
Originally posted by tmuscedere
Are you sure that the belt is facing the right way? If I remember when I did my belt that if you put the belt on reversed that the marks would not line up for some reason.
Are you sure that the belt is facing the right way? If I remember when I did my belt that if you put the belt on reversed that the marks would not line up for some reason.
Make sure the left cam and right cam are with respective marks lined up with the marks on the back of the timing belt cover. Also make sure the crankshaft sprocket mark lines up with the mark on the edge of the timing belt cover. while you have this done check to see that the rotor on the distributor is pointing in the direction where it would hit the point in the cap for cylinder 1. Then put the belt on without moving anything once its lined up. The marks on the belt are to make sure you have the right number of belt teeth between the two cam sprockets. The marks are only for installation purposes and once on and engine rotates they will not line up again except for every X number of rotations. The "harmonic dampner" which is only the main drive pulley only goes on one way if I remember correctly so that you dont have to worry about it not being on in the right relationship to the crankshaft itself. With spark plugs removed rotate the engine by hand, you can use the bolt that holds the drive pulley on. It will be firm to turn but it should not stop or get stuck thus having internal parts colliding. Also check to see that the marks on the cam sprockets and crankshaft sprokets still line up together when rotor is pointing to cylinder 1. The lines on the belt wont match but thats ok.
This is what I had learned when I recently changed my TB. Others please feel free to correct any misinformation that I might have given.
Good luck.
Oh, the notches on the drive pulley are only used for timing when the engine is running and you are using a timing light or gun, so if the crankshaft was lined up but the arrow on the timing belt cover that sticks out over the drive pulley is not on a certain mark that doesnt mean anything until the engine is running and you have a timing light to reveal which mark is lining up with the pointer when the timing light flashes.
Not sure if that was part of your question or not.
This is what I had learned when I recently changed my TB. Others please feel free to correct any misinformation that I might have given.
Good luck.
Oh, the notches on the drive pulley are only used for timing when the engine is running and you are using a timing light or gun, so if the crankshaft was lined up but the arrow on the timing belt cover that sticks out over the drive pulley is not on a certain mark that doesnt mean anything until the engine is running and you have a timing light to reveal which mark is lining up with the pointer when the timing light flashes.
Not sure if that was part of your question or not.
vwink182 your right, the VE engines do not have a belt but a chain. I thought brandon90gxe with a VG that has a belt to be changed started the thread, thats who I was trying to help. I'd count yourself lucky to not have to change one, LOL
They can be changed but its not listed in the service recomendations from Nissan that I know of. Most people do not have to change a timing chain. So with 99.9999999% certainty you dont have to but I dont want to tell you that lightning will never strike the same place either. Basically no you dont. Do a poll, I dont think anyone on the forum has had to change theirs. So you should be safe.
Originally posted by 89sks
Glad you liked it, which part of it? Let us know how it goes! You doing a complete rebuild or what?
Glad you liked it, which part of it? Let us know how it goes! You doing a complete rebuild or what?
hey, I'm a n00b that happens to have an instinct for this kind of stuff.
My '89 is my 'winter' car, I drive it in the off season when I park my '92SE. It has 146K on it, and I had no records. Sooo, I need to replace the timing belt, the last day I drove it, an injector died and there was one broken exhaust stud. I ordered all the different seals, gaskets and of course the t-belt, water pump, new exhaust studs, and a couple of hoses.
Its like a lite rebuild - I'm not touching the block. I broke one more stud off clean with the head, and 2 more broke with half an inch sticking out. I wasn't keen on 'rotating' the engine in the bay, so I pulled the heads. Since they were off, I figured I'd have a valve job done. Then I discovered new cams. so those are ordered. My WSP Y is here, as the stock flex on the old pipe is gone.
I'm thinking that I will order a UDP, and I'm talking with someone to get a PR intake. So, good valves, new injectors and a couple of good mods. I'm hoping that the rest of the car holds up. I liked it cause of the digital dash, climate control leather, and of course its pretty clean.
woah, long p0st.
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