How much for Freeon??
.
07-15-2003, 02:38 PM
#4
Originally posted by acidspit86
r-134a? i was about to ask the same question because my car does the same thing...
r-134a? i was about to ask the same question because my car does the same thing...
07-15-2003, 08:30 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 187
I think that R-134A started to be used around 93 - 94 model year. Just look under your hood at the air conditioning label, it'll tell you what kind of system you have.
Freon is no longer produced. A/C shops may still have some or can get it, but it'll be upwards of $100 a pound.
R-134A is available everywhere for about $6 per can.
Tim
Freon is no longer produced. A/C shops may still have some or can get it, but it'll be upwards of $100 a pound.
R-134A is available everywhere for about $6 per can.
Tim
07-16-2003, 06:30 AM
#6
C'MON PEOPLE DO A DAMN SEARCH!!!!!
"freon" trade name is R12 - i believe dupont brand.
anyway...
if your car is R12 there is still R12 available. it's not outlawed..just need the right certification to get it.
if your car is R134a well there's plenty around and many many DIY kits.
to get R12 you need a EPA section 609 certification. going price is about $30 for 12oz or $700 for 30lbs...i'm sure your local grease monkey will jack up the price to make more $.
check under the hood and if you see a R134a sticker then you have a R134a system. if you don't see the sticker then you have R12. the ports are different on R12 and R134a.
"freon" trade name is R12 - i believe dupont brand.
anyway...
if your car is R12 there is still R12 available. it's not outlawed..just need the right certification to get it.
if your car is R134a well there's plenty around and many many DIY kits.
to get R12 you need a EPA section 609 certification. going price is about $30 for 12oz or $700 for 30lbs...i'm sure your local grease monkey will jack up the price to make more $.
check under the hood and if you see a R134a sticker then you have a R134a system. if you don't see the sticker then you have R12. the ports are different on R12 and R134a.
07-16-2003, 07:31 AM
#8
Originally posted by Reese
Thanks Dan, I thought we have covered this in the past!!!!!
Thanks Dan, I thought we have covered this in the past!!!!!
during the winter it's heater core, t-stat, water pump questions all day long.
07-28-2003, 02:27 AM
#10
Originally posted by DanNY
C'MON PEOPLE DO A DAMN SEARCH!!!!!
"freon" trade name is R12 - i believe dupont brand.
anyway...
if your car is R12 there is still R12 available. it's not outlawed..just need the right certification to get it.
if your car is R134a well there's plenty around and many many DIY kits.
to get R12 you need a EPA section 609 certification. going price is about $30 for 12oz or $700 for 30lbs...i'm sure your local grease monkey will jack up the price to make more $.
check under the hood and if you see a R134a sticker then you have a R134a system. if you don't see the sticker then you have R12. the ports are different on R12 and R134a.
C'MON PEOPLE DO A DAMN SEARCH!!!!!
"freon" trade name is R12 - i believe dupont brand.
anyway...
if your car is R12 there is still R12 available. it's not outlawed..just need the right certification to get it.
if your car is R134a well there's plenty around and many many DIY kits.
to get R12 you need a EPA section 609 certification. going price is about $30 for 12oz or $700 for 30lbs...i'm sure your local grease monkey will jack up the price to make more $.
check under the hood and if you see a R134a sticker then you have a R134a system. if you don't see the sticker then you have R12. the ports are different on R12 and R134a.
07-28-2003, 02:53 AM
#11
I saw advertised at advance auto here in my hometown that they were selling R12 for $18.95 for a 12 oz. can (said it was a $10 savings while supplies last). I didnt ask about it and dont know if its a local sale only but its worth checking out.
I dont know if they are breaking laws since you have to certification or if they are only selling it to people with the certification.
Just thought I would throw that out since I saw the sign last night.
I dont know if they are breaking laws since you have to certification or if they are only selling it to people with the certification.
Just thought I would throw that out since I saw the sign last night.
07-28-2003, 04:49 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
All Maxima's up until the '93 model year uses R-12 (i know because my '92 SE has the R-12 sticker under the hood). Some '93 models use R-12 and some use R-134a. All '94 model years use R-134a (this is what my '94 GXE uses).
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best
07-28-2003, 04:59 AM
#13
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 54
Originally posted by DARHAW-MAX
All Maxima's up until the '93 model year uses R-12 (i know because my '92 SE has the R-12 sticker under the hood). Some '93 models use R-12 and some use R-134a. All '94 model years use R-134a (this is what my '94 GXE uses).
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best
All Maxima's up until the '93 model year uses R-12 (i know because my '92 SE has the R-12 sticker under the hood). Some '93 models use R-12 and some use R-134a. All '94 model years use R-134a (this is what my '94 GXE uses).
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best
Hope this helps
Sohaib
89 Maxima GXE
07-28-2003, 05:00 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
***** oops, I hit the <enter> button prematurely *****
All Maxima's up until the '93 model year uses R-12 (i know because my '92 SE has the R-12 sticker under the hood). Some '93 models use R-12 and some use R-134a. All '94 model years use R-134a (this is what my '94 GXE uses).
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best bet. To have your system converted, again go to an approved AC shop. What they will do is evacuate your system of the old stuff, install new fittings, and charge up with the new R-134a.
After you have your system converted over, you can then go to any autoshop, get a small can of R-134a for about $5.00, and recharge your system yourself. However, you need to be careful. If you overcharge your system, you will have to take it somewhere to have the re-evacuate the system. If you read the instructions on the can, you will be okay.
All Maxima's up until the '93 model year uses R-12 (i know because my '92 SE has the R-12 sticker under the hood). Some '93 models use R-12 and some use R-134a. All '94 model years use R-134a (this is what my '94 GXE uses).
If you have a R-12 system, you have two choices:
1. Have it recharged at an approved AC shop. As such you will
be charged quite a bit because R-12 is an ozone depleting
substance that the govenment is trying to eliminate.
2. Have your system converted to R-134a. This is your best bet. To have your system converted, again go to an approved AC shop. What they will do is evacuate your system of the old stuff, install new fittings, and charge up with the new R-134a.
After you have your system converted over, you can then go to any autoshop, get a small can of R-134a for about $5.00, and recharge your system yourself. However, you need to be careful. If you overcharge your system, you will have to take it somewhere to have the re-evacuate the system. If you read the instructions on the can, you will be okay.
07-28-2003, 10:20 AM
#15
But why does the compressor become louder after converting from R12 to R134a?? is that normal or is that a sign of a bad compressor? or does it mean the compressor needs more oil?
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
07-28-2003, 11:34 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Originally posted by drstillpatient
But why does the compressor become louder after converting from R12 to R134a?? is that normal or is that a sign of a bad compressor? or does it mean the compressor needs more oil?
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
But why does the compressor become louder after converting from R12 to R134a?? is that normal or is that a sign of a bad compressor? or does it mean the compressor needs more oil?
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
07-28-2003, 04:39 PM
#17
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 12
sounds like its going out, ive done 3 ghetto conversions to 3 different cars and each time the compressor turned MAD loud. Eventually killing 2 of them. I would STRONGLY recommend getting your system evacuated first, my theory is that if you get any air in there, the compression of the refrigerant gets all screwed up, and your compressor has to work very hard.
07-28-2003, 06:48 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 201
Get the R-134a retrofit kit at Autozone. It has everything you need to charge and check the pressure as well as the freon and a can of oil. If you don't use the oil then your compressor will squeak and eventually lock up.
It's foolproof to switch over because the fittings are different sizes so you don't charge freon into the wrong side. The coupler will only fit on the blue (low side) of the compressor. This is the side you want to check for pressure and charge.
Your AC will be ice cold if you don't have any leaks.
It's foolproof to switch over because the fittings are different sizes so you don't charge freon into the wrong side. The coupler will only fit on the blue (low side) of the compressor. This is the side you want to check for pressure and charge.
Your AC will be ice cold if you don't have any leaks.
07-29-2003, 05:26 PM
#19
The conversion was done at an autoshop...the system was evacuated of the old r12 with a machine, vacuum tested for 30 minutes, and then r134a and oil was put in via another machine..
Yesterday i went to walmart and bought a 2oz can of ester oil and added to the AC system...and yeah the compressor is NOT making the ticking sound anymore.
even when the ticking sound was there, it still blew ice cold and its still ice cold.
Yesterday i went to walmart and bought a 2oz can of ester oil and added to the AC system...and yeah the compressor is NOT making the ticking sound anymore.
even when the ticking sound was there, it still blew ice cold and its still ice cold.
Originally posted by 90MaximaGXE
sounds like its going out, ive done 3 ghetto conversions to 3 different cars and each time the compressor turned MAD loud. Eventually killing 2 of them. I would STRONGLY recommend getting your system evacuated first, my theory is that if you get any air in there, the compression of the refrigerant gets all screwed up, and your compressor has to work very hard.
sounds like its going out, ive done 3 ghetto conversions to 3 different cars and each time the compressor turned MAD loud. Eventually killing 2 of them. I would STRONGLY recommend getting your system evacuated first, my theory is that if you get any air in there, the compression of the refrigerant gets all screwed up, and your compressor has to work very hard.
07-29-2003, 06:46 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 187
Originally posted by drstillpatient
But why does the compressor become louder after converting from R12 to R134a?? is that normal or is that a sign of a bad compressor? or does it mean the compressor needs more oil?
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
But why does the compressor become louder after converting from R12 to R134a?? is that normal or is that a sign of a bad compressor? or does it mean the compressor needs more oil?
Ever since converting to r134a my compressor's been making this nice ticking/clacking noise.
Tim
07-29-2003, 07:10 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10
If the system is not evacuated then when the r134a mixes with the water vapor in the system you will create HYdrocloric acid. NOT GOOD for aluminum. Please replace dryer and flush all lines to convert systems and drain compressor oil which will be r12 oil. and add new oil and dryer vaccuum system and charge. this is the brief version. Moron me hit the reset button on the long version. new to this site.
07-29-2003, 07:17 PM
#22
Originally posted by Paul89SE
Get the R-134a retrofit kit at Autozone. It has everything you need to charge and check the pressure as well as the freon and a can of oil. If you don't use the oil then your compressor will squeak and eventually lock up.
It's foolproof to switch over because the fittings are different sizes so you don't charge freon into the wrong side. The coupler will only fit on the blue (low side) of the compressor. This is the side you want to check for pressure and charge.
Your AC will be ice cold if you don't have any leaks.
Get the R-134a retrofit kit at Autozone. It has everything you need to charge and check the pressure as well as the freon and a can of oil. If you don't use the oil then your compressor will squeak and eventually lock up.
It's foolproof to switch over because the fittings are different sizes so you don't charge freon into the wrong side. The coupler will only fit on the blue (low side) of the compressor. This is the side you want to check for pressure and charge.
Your AC will be ice cold if you don't have any leaks.
????
07-29-2003, 07:32 PM
#23
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10
What do you mean by located? You should not find r12 in any store. In your system look for two caps screwed on to valves. To find out if any r12 is left push the middle pin just like a car tire. Watch your eyes! If so go to a shop and use that for money. r12 is worth alot to those that don't want to covert. If they won't give you some deal for the r12 for help with the retrofit try another shop. r12 is at least $70lb whereas 134a is $6 or so. Catch this in about 10 years will be no more 134a or 12 in new cars if government has their way. Will use nitrogen and stainless steel lines with 2200lb head pressures. Now it is only 250lb somebody gunna die. MIKE
07-30-2003, 07:36 PM
#24
Originally posted by klymkow
Did you have the system evacuated and then replace the oil with an amount that's compatible with R-134A?
Tim
Did you have the system evacuated and then replace the oil with an amount that's compatible with R-134A?
Tim
07-31-2003, 08:13 AM
#25
Originally posted by Jetrangerz31
What do you mean by located? You should not find r12 in any store. In your system look for two caps screwed on to valves. To find out if any r12 is left push the middle pin just like a car tire. Watch your eyes! If so go to a shop and use that for money. r12 is worth alot to those that don't want to covert. If they won't give you some deal for the r12 for help with the retrofit try another shop. r12 is at least $70lb whereas 134a is $6 or so. Catch this in about 10 years will be no more 134a or 12 in new cars if government has their way. Will use nitrogen and stainless steel lines with 2200lb head pressures. Now it is only 250lb somebody gunna die. MIKE
What do you mean by located? You should not find r12 in any store. In your system look for two caps screwed on to valves. To find out if any r12 is left push the middle pin just like a car tire. Watch your eyes! If so go to a shop and use that for money. r12 is worth alot to those that don't want to covert. If they won't give you some deal for the r12 for help with the retrofit try another shop. r12 is at least $70lb whereas 134a is $6 or so. Catch this in about 10 years will be no more 134a or 12 in new cars if government has their way. Will use nitrogen and stainless steel lines with 2200lb head pressures. Now it is only 250lb somebody gunna die. MIKE
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
aw89maxSE
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
3
08-06-2004 12:07 PM