yesterday i started the car and it started to hesitate..and ran really crappy...the RPM went up to 1500 and stayed there...i thought maybe the fuel filter is clogged...drove it around a little bit but the RPM stayed at 1500 and soon the engine temp went all the way to high...

i parked the car and shut off the engine to cool it off...when i tried to start it, it wouldnt start and i smelt gasoline...so i took out the fuel pump fuse assuming the engine got flooded somehow.

it started right up and stayed at 1500 RPM again. i ran the ECU diagnositcs and it gave a code 13 = engine temperature sensor...well 4 hours later when tried to start it up it started up perfect!! checked the ECU and it gave code 55 = all good!!!

i've ran the ECU diagnostics a couple times now and it only gives code 55 and i havent had this problem again

whats going on here??

 

anybody?? i am buying the engine temperature sensor tomorrow anyway but if anyone has had a similar problem?

btw..i DID put the fuel pump fuse back afterwards

 

I had my fuel injectors done around this time last year. I think either when you've had some "significant" electronics work done on the car, the ECU is more susceptible to reading false error codes. Since having my injectors done, I've been noticing a CEL coming on ONLY when I drive on a relatively cold day on the freeway less than 10 minutes after I started up the car.

Sometimes some engine electronic noise can trigger the right signal to the ECU and activate the CEL. If you've checked your engine temperature sensor, and it works (i.e. your engine is not superheated when your thermometer says it's normal) then you should be in the clear.

But since you went ahead and already bought a new sensor, go ahead and stick that sucker in!


Good luck.

 

I wouldn't rush off and buy it yet. The connector on those sometimes builds up exide and if you disconnect/reconnect a few times (reseating the connector), you may find that all will be well.

Those cars run like crap when the PCM is getting the wrong voltage @ a specific temp. While you have it disconnected you can ohm it out and see if it's within specs. It's only a thermistor whose resistance varies with temperature. It's either broke or it ain't.