Tobal

Ok straight to the point:
Very soon I will recieve a undisclosed amount of a cash settlement (which I can't go further on), and i'm seriously thinking about devoting up to a maximum of $10,000 to a 90' SE 158,000mi(vg engine auto).
I am in no way interested in making this an extreme dragster by any means. However I ask humbly to the knowledgable, what will it take to make this car extremely machanically sound with a good amount of pep, omph, or whatever floats your boat. I would not want to run on some super high octane of 100 or whatever. Basically I'm leaning eaither to a N/A with new built up motor and get a good paint job and classy set of rims, or go with a mild turbo solution.
I feel uneasy about the turbo ruote through the skimming of the countless pages on the forum about how some people have gone into the 20,000 dollar mark to get the maxima ready for boost. To me, it does not seem very cost effective in my opinion.
If any patient/kind souls could give me a list with a ball park figure to setup a nice 3rd gen maxima with the up to the maximum value, it would be greatly appreciated. But first, and foremost, it must be very reliable. Thank you all for your time and patience.

Tobal

P.s I am not what you call...mechanically incline so forgive any ignorant questions.

VG93gxe

just buy the $9000 motor (good for about 300hp) from hekimani (spelling?), i'll get the link and post it.

Tobal

This would leave me very little to work with. I mean great I have this nice motor. But I still would need a paint job, some suspension, decent sound system, and a set of good rims. Thank you for your suggestion. The 10,000 would be for everything, so in actuallity I would not be able to put alot into the motor. Any more suggestions, comments, rants are appreciated.

Tobal

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

$10,000 worth of stickers and blue lighting...done and done!

IMO if you aren't even mechnically inclined of any sort start out small. dropping $10gs and knowing nothing is worthless in my book...when people start talking technical terms you'll be lost. IMO you have to AT LEAST have some idea of where to start and what the goal is.

Tobal

See I would like to classify myself as howstuffworks and put on CAI edumacated kind of guy. So in short, know the basics but cannot as of right now, no, can't say i could build a motor by myself. However, I believe I did state what my optimum goal was and a couple of solutions at getting there. I would prefer N/A, but as stated before, i'm kinda in the dark.
I feel there is no reason for belittling me for my ignorant question. And before the "search" answer comes up, what would I type for my current situation? Please give a newb a break...

Tobal

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

How fast do you expect a modded VG or even a VE max to be? The most you could get for even a VE max na would be about 230hp at the flywheel? The VG would be lucky to get 190hp. Boost is not just a cost issue. Due to the very large DIY nature of the project, being a newbie = you will have to pay someone to do the work. Which means big $. Just buy someone's Sc'd 4-gen if you want a boosted FWD so bad. 10 grand would also buy a GS-r and a turbo kit?? Again, probably alot faster than a boosted VG. "Might" be faster than a boosted VE

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

um, I would just sell your 90 with 158k and have a total of about $12K or so, then patiently wait to find a near mint 94 SE for like $6-7 that has under 100K. Then you should have a much more reliable base from which to work with, along with 30 extra horses without adding a single mod. With the remaining $4k-$5k you should easily be able to put in a quality sound system, upgrade suspension and wheels/tires.

Actually, since you will have the money, buy a newer SE first, then keep the stuff you like from your car (for instance wheels or stereo stuff). THEN sell your car and use that money for other upgrades.

Another thing to think of is getting a Gen. 5 SE. Kelly Blue Book on a 2000 SE with leather, 5-spd and 65K miles is a little over $12,000 (private party). If you offer someone $10,000 cash for a nice one, they would probably take it.

Tobal

hmm....thank you kind sirs for your suggestions. I have a sentimental attachment to this piece of junk. I think I may have came off as expecting to be "fast and furious" with this post, however I was just wondering with 10,000 cash. What could I do to make it look nice and run good. I know the basic would be CAI, Y-pipe, pulleys, catback, etc. I just want the motor itself to last a good while if i'm going to spend so this much. I basically would like this to be a nice cruiser car. I'm sorry for any possible misconception and misrepresentation of my goals. Any further help would greatly be appreciated.

Tobal

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

IMO....
-build-up the auto tranny or swap to 5spd
-rebuild bottom end with some forged pistons
-get a nice set of mild/aggressive VG30E cams
-get some headwork and intake work done
-and get a nice 75-100 shot of nitrous with JWT controller

quick, easy, fast and pretty reliable...but then again as mods increase, reliabity decreases anyway you look at it. anyways than spend the rest on other things for the car(top notch suspension, etc.)...trying to go N/A with the VG is a waste IMO, boost it or juice it....or save yourself the trouble and buy a Honda like me, so much easier!

KLoWnPR109

iTrader: (9)

juice

Tobal

DA-Max I retract my previous statement about you. Thank you for your suggestion. Could you give me a price range of the mods in question? thanks.

Tobal

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

BRC makes a good set of VG30E forged pistons for around $500; stock rods should be cool, just have them heat treated, etc. probably $250+; prices for cams will vary based on what you want; headwork and porting prices will vary based on where you go to have it done; info on the Jim Wolf Technology nitrous system can be found on their website...depending on who you have build the motor maybe ~$5k or less total depending on what you decide to do with the tranny *cough* 5spd swap will be cheaper *cough*.

if the search function is working, USE IT!!! these topics are covered in-depth many times and going back and reading those will really foster a better understanding and maybe give you more focus on what you want out of the car.

VG93gxe

wouldn't it be nice though? "an administrator has disabled the search function" so i can't search for the old threads about the hekimani (sp?) motor and therefore can't give you any solid info about it. does anyone else know the link? or know anything about the motor? i'm gonna get a bunch of comments about what a newbie i am for saying this, but if i had the money, i'd go with the $9k cryosoaked motor. imagine the base you would have to modify the rest of your car around (not to mention the look on the face of the driver of the first bone stock 330ci you smoke).

DARHAW-MAX

Tobal---

Here you go. This is what I--personally--would do with $10,000 to invest in a '90SE

* Get new transmission (if have not already done so) or, if you like to self-shift, convert to 5spd
* Get VG30E daym near rebuilt w/new exhaust studs
* Get new MAF and new sensors
* Install new suspension equipment to include new struts, springs, control arms, bushings, ball joints, etc.
* Have all dents and dings fixed and rust removed and get a professional paint job with the custom color of your choice
* Ensure spoiler is not rotting off. If so, have it fixed
* Possibly have leather interior reappolstered (sp)
* Install 17x7.5 or 17x8 rims with good rubber
* Redo entire brake system to include new, painted calipers and steel brake lines running to them
* Have all window regulators replaced with new ones (if not already done)
* Install nice stereo system w/MP3 capability and proper amps
* Clean and reseat all electrical connectors.
* Oh yeah, and don't forget about the exhaust work

By this time, you will a "new" car that should last you just as long as a 5th or 6th gen. However, with all of that, I don't know how close that will push the 10K wall.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

do not go forged pistons if you plan for daily driver, IMO. over time, they are too prone to expand under heat, requiring larger wall-clearance in bore = compression compromise. stay cast.

if you do not plan to get informed, then do not mod car, like DA-MAX said.

THX

iTrader: (1)

Just remember with all these little projects your car will be staying the shop a long time. For $10k I'd honestly recommend just buying a S/C'ed 4th gen. Sell the 3rd gen and use that to build up the stereo to your liking.

I have to admit building up the ol 3rd gen sounds nice, but with "only" $10k to spend on everything you'll be doing a little of each area (audio/looks/performance) and in the end won't be as satisified as you thought you'd be. Not to mention the parts you don't work on will have 158k miles worth of wear on a new HP boost.

The Max

Actually, you're right about not getting forgies for a daily driver, but you've got the theory wrong. Forged pistons are made to expand at their maximum designed horsepower limit to their desired diameter. If you make a piston to hold 500hp regularly (like mine from Ross Racing), it will be at its maximum diameter at that 500hp. When just cruising on the open highway, the pistons won't be as expanded and hence you will suffer a condition known as "piston slap" which is the piston slapping (duh!!) against the cylinder walls.

This is the one sacrifice that I've chosen to live with in my project. It will be a daily driver and a thrasher. There will be more moments when I'll be running 210hp at the wheels rather than 420hp, but that's what I'm building the motor for and that's the power I want at my fingertips when I ever get to line up against some other quick vehicle boosted off its nut (or just a big block V8).

So remember, it's not the expansion that ruins the bores, it's the contraction. That's why you always let the motor warm right up before you drive off in order to minimise the effects of that slap under load.

The Max

Two reasons why I've gone turbo on my VG:

1) Stronger cast iron block vs weaker alloy block
2) Independant rear suspension

Sorry, as much as I would've preferred a motor with a timing chain and the room to be supercharged (without sacrificing A/C), the overall handling and robustness of the 3rd gen is far better. Besides which, I think they look nicer (although I wouldn't mind 4th gen interior)

jakew8

go to test.maxima.org; it's the new forum beta site. the old messages have been imported to that site and i think the search works over there.

jakew8

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGLE

http://www.hekimianracing.com/

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

actually, that is what i meant but was unclear. thank you, btw, for your thorough explanation. because of the larger wall clearances in the bore due to the forgies' "need" to expand in the bore over time, there is a larger gap between the rings and the bore wall *before* the expansion. this is the condition you do not want. you have compression loss issues because of that, which will cause you to *lose* horsepower. and the piston slap is likely as you said.

i still say go with eutectic.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Hmmm.. I've got well over $10k invested in my car since I bought it, and I haven't even began to touch the engine. Most of it was in preparing the rest of the car to handle that kind of power.. (and stereo and sound deadening)..

Suspension (springs, struts, sway bars, subframes, camber adjustmant, other custom parts), $2500
Wheels & tires (used wheels, new tires), $1000
Brakes (100% custom by me), $2000
Stereo (again, custom by me), $6200
Alarm (to keep it mine), $450
Safety equipment (Seats, 4 pt harnesses, helmet), $1100
bolt-on engine mods, $650 (CAI, flywheel, UDP)
new tranny w/ cryo treated parts, $1500
Exhaust- nothing yet

Again, that's still not much power I've added yet, but it's what's required to be able to properly harness and control the power. What's in it so far? add it up: $8750 for JUST the performance parts. add another $6650 for a nice stereo and alarm, that's over $15k and I haven't even opened the engine yet!!!


If you want to play, you gotta pay. Don't touch the engine until the car can handle the power.
By the time you do a turbo project right, you're looking at another $5000 easily. Are you REALLY prepared to put $15-20k into a car that's only worth $3k at the most?

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

yes. that is exactly what i am doing. the car must be able to handle what you really have in store for it. for example, before i even think of boost, i need the big brake upgrade. i saw a post about your recent mod of that. did you go with the skyline rotors? i noticed, too, that you relocted the caliper. this seems like a PIA. is it? how did it go?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I had been using skyline rotors for the last couple years, but upgraded to larger ones made of better metals. the OE skyline rotors were just too soft and the discs kept cracking under the heat. Now I'm using 13.3" Coleman rotors. some of the best stuff out there. Shouldn't have to worry about cracking now.

you're going to have to deal with caliper relocation on ANY big brake kit, so you might as well get over that part. it's not that bad, but it's not something any joe blow can just slap together in the garage either.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

i turbocharged my maxima for a little over 1000 dollars. it's not quite ready to run yet but i don't think it will be over 1500 dollars to get it going. 90 percent of the work i did by myself, though, so that is where i really save the cash. a good thing to do is not just go out and buy the first, best looking thing there is. take a little while and search for some good priced but good working products and that will keep the costs down on making the car faster. like say for instance i'm starting to look into returning my ecu. not by jwt, but by me. there is so many things out there to let you do it yourself for a great price and get better tuning than that of jwt's. you just have to search around for a while.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Take the TenK, but a 99 SE with the 222hp engine. Look for one with a manual if you want real performance. You can find a decent one for about $6-8K nowdays. That leaves you some money for wheels and paint. Sell your 90 for 2K and you have money for a stereo.

I really like my 3rd gen, but I certain;y wouldn't drop 10K on a 14 year old car (in your case, 12 in mine). I've dropped a couple grand for mods and fixes, but that's about as far as I'll take this one.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

why does it matter that it is 14 years old?? there are people restoring old cars all of the time that are 30 years old plus. someone just recently got my grandfather's 1908 buick model 10 to restore. they're going to spend a pretty penny restoring. i know that those cars are worth a heck of a lot more than ours but a lot of people don't do it for the worth of the car, they do it because they like doing it and they like their car.

DARHAW-MAX

Dielaughing

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

p.s. i didn't want that to come out in a mean way, i was just saying what i believe since i love modding my maxima.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Again, there's a BIG difference between restoring a collector/antique car over a Maxima. How many Maximas are on the road right now compared to 1908 Buicks? Not to sit here and argue with you, but there's a BIG difference between restoring a classic car and "fixing up" a Maxima.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

On the same hand there's a big difference between modding a car for track and sound competition use like yourself and this person who's probably just looking to make "his" more attractive and appealing to him. The over 10K that you've already invested without touching the engine is expected considering what you're into

This was the my first time reading this thread and to be honest when I read in his first post that he wants to put 10K into his car from a settlement he's getting I was like are you freaking crazy. BUT as I continued reading the thread I started to realize the original poster doesn't seem like some young ricer who's getting a piece of his grandfather inheritance.

I have to totally agree with DA-MAX, even his last statement of buying a Honda/Acura. But we all have our scentlemental reasons for hanging onto certain items.

I don't remember you stating if you currently have any mods or completely stock. Because if you are stock, like others I'm a big fan of a full suspension upgrade when it comes to our "Max" which is like a boat floating on water from the factory.

As others stated, with you not being mechanically incline you're opening the possiblities of others taking advantage of your lack of knowledge. If it's possible to have a friend who's more knowledgeable about mods go with you to these shops, do so. It will be in your favor.

You don't seem like a speed racer so my order of mods would susp/brakes, cosmetic, engine, stereo, etc.

I also wanted to add, I don't know how old you are or if you have a family but 10K is a lot of money to think of in the future. I can't help it, sorry.

The Max

Why didn't you ever ask me that same question when we were talking about turbocharging Max?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Because you're a Hell-bent, f***ed in the head Aussie that's going to do what he wants to do, no matter what some scum sucking Yank tells you.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

right. excellent point. people pour thousands of dollars into, say, 1967 Mustangs, and those cars are like 36 years old. and nobody thinks twice about that rationale. the deal with the maximas, the older ones, is that they are just "old." but they are not considered "classics." so the overall mentality is to dump them for newer cars. in ways, they are not old enough yet. the mindset of others is that they are used, tired, beater cars with virtually no bluebook value anymore. but in the tuner magazines, you see the occasional cover articles about "old skool" datsuns and things like this. and they are cherried and hot-rodded and they shine. but those cars are often over 20 years old. and often, you read that the owner of the datusun "found it in a junkyard ready for the crusher; bought it for 70 dollars, etc..." so the maxima is currently in limbo.

that will change.

maxdout92se

i'm in the south and thats all kats down here do is restore cars....maybe usin the 1908 model T was a bad example...bring it a lil more recent...everyday, more and more, i'm seein cutlass', monte carlos', caprices', etc.. from the 70's and 80's being refurbished and what not...from doin major engine work, puttin in new guts, all the way to addin 22's, i mean thats all we do.....some might not see tha 3rd gen "max" as a classic since its not even 20 years old yet....ever think it will be called a classic and be on that car show with that dude with that long funny azz mustache that curls up at the ends??? anyhow, put that 10g's into your "max" and make it your unique customized car!!! its gonna take me about another 1 or 2 more years before i can start adding on "wants" as oppose to "needs" to my max, even if it takes 5 years, this "max" ain't goin nowhere......3rd gen for life baby!!!

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

the thing about the 3rd gen maxima is that probably it will forever remain a "special interest" auto rather than a "classic." for example, i am from marietta, ga -- the south. i don't live there anymore, but the point is, i had a '57 chevy, a '55 olds, and a '61 impala. all "classics." but the most classic of that lot is the legendary '57 chevy (mine was a 2-dr 150 model, rare, but not worth much). the olds was nice, but today is less collected. and it was a 4dr. so it is even less wanted than the '61 impala. and that car, the '61, has had a sort of resurgence due to the lowrider culture. but, generally, you have vintage cars that are not necessarily something ever highly wanted. like a '62 plymouth fury is 'vintage,' but it is not really sought after. and probably never will be. they are cool, but are not very valued.

that is the fate of the maxima -a sort of sleeper/special-interest car. as it offers subtle things that the devout followers of it like, but the "masses" overlook and do not respond to. and probably, most cars of today, cars for the "masses," are generally too generic-looking to ever be wanted 30 years from now. who will want to restore a 1987 dodge aries K car? or an '89 buick century 4dr? who will care about those? -- only sentimental people and devout followers, special-interest people.

DARHAW-MAX

Man, do what you want with your car. It is yours and your money. I am with you. If I had 10K to invest--providing that it does not mess with any of my other money--I would do the same. Go for it!