Finished Rebuilding & Improving Suspension
08-01-2003, 11:33 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Finished Rebuilding & Improving Suspension
I just recently finished up a drawn out 2-week process of rebuilding & improving my suspension. My 94 SE 5spd currently has 148k miles and had all factory suspension. I installed Koni adjustable struts, Eibach springs, ST front and rear sway bars and a 5th Gen. FSTB. I also installed a set of 17 inch Moda R6 rims with 215/50/17 tires.
I also replaced both front ball joints, the outer tie rod ends, the bushings on my front control arms, the bushings in my rear radius rods and all new strut mounts with new front upper strut bearings and strut dust covers.
I just got an alignment done today to complete the process. The difference with the new suspension is very noticeable. The car handles so much better and is so much more fun to drive! The ride is a little rougher then I prefer but I’m more then willing to make that sacrifice for the improved handling and looks.
The rear suspension took me the better part of an afternoon and the front took me nearly a whole day.
Everything was fairly easy but it was just time consuming. The only real problem I had was with the front control arms. When I went to swap out the arms (with a set I got from a salvage yard that I had new bushings installed on) the front bushing was seized to the stud on the transverse link. Luckily when I bought the used arms from the salvage yard they included the transverse links, so I ended up swapping out the arms along with the transverse links. (I was fairly surprised the arms were seized on, because 2 or 3 times in the weeks prior to the installation I thoroughly sprayed all the suspension components with Kroil penetrating lubricant.) I originally planned on changing the rear parallel link bushings also, but the process looked a little harder then I had anticipated.
I have a FSM, which helped out a lot, but the write-ups I read and the research I did on the 3rd Gen org forum and 4dsc.com made everything a lot easier. It gave me a better idea of what to expect and what to plan on changing in the process. I owe a big thanks to this website and the people who answered some of my questions!
My next mod is probably going to be E36 headlights followed by an improved brake system, then engine and exhaust mods. Maybe after all that I will possibly get subframe connectors from warpspeed.
I also replaced both front ball joints, the outer tie rod ends, the bushings on my front control arms, the bushings in my rear radius rods and all new strut mounts with new front upper strut bearings and strut dust covers.
I just got an alignment done today to complete the process. The difference with the new suspension is very noticeable. The car handles so much better and is so much more fun to drive! The ride is a little rougher then I prefer but I’m more then willing to make that sacrifice for the improved handling and looks.
The rear suspension took me the better part of an afternoon and the front took me nearly a whole day.
Everything was fairly easy but it was just time consuming. The only real problem I had was with the front control arms. When I went to swap out the arms (with a set I got from a salvage yard that I had new bushings installed on) the front bushing was seized to the stud on the transverse link. Luckily when I bought the used arms from the salvage yard they included the transverse links, so I ended up swapping out the arms along with the transverse links. (I was fairly surprised the arms were seized on, because 2 or 3 times in the weeks prior to the installation I thoroughly sprayed all the suspension components with Kroil penetrating lubricant.) I originally planned on changing the rear parallel link bushings also, but the process looked a little harder then I had anticipated.
I have a FSM, which helped out a lot, but the write-ups I read and the research I did on the 3rd Gen org forum and 4dsc.com made everything a lot easier. It gave me a better idea of what to expect and what to plan on changing in the process. I owe a big thanks to this website and the people who answered some of my questions!
My next mod is probably going to be E36 headlights followed by an improved brake system, then engine and exhaust mods. Maybe after all that I will possibly get subframe connectors from warpspeed.
08-02-2003, 01:29 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 773
Awesome.
Let me put this at the top of my post: please post pics.
I am probably going to go the route that you have chosen, depending on available funds. I have my sights fixed on the Koni's, or nothing at all (my friend has the Tokico's installed on his Max, and I don't think that they are that much better than stock for $300). I'm willing to wait the extra 2 weeks for another $200 to spend on the best suspension setup possible.
What setting are you running your Koni's at?
Also, why did you choose the Eibach's? Why not the sprint's, intrax's, or ST's? I'm leaning towards the ST springs for the extra .3 in drop.
Let me put this at the top of my post: please post pics.
I am probably going to go the route that you have chosen, depending on available funds. I have my sights fixed on the Koni's, or nothing at all (my friend has the Tokico's installed on his Max, and I don't think that they are that much better than stock for $300). I'm willing to wait the extra 2 weeks for another $200 to spend on the best suspension setup possible.
What setting are you running your Koni's at?
Also, why did you choose the Eibach's? Why not the sprint's, intrax's, or ST's? I'm leaning towards the ST springs for the extra .3 in drop.
08-02-2003, 01:59 AM
#4
the front bushings are going to be siezed to the gussets about 99% of the time. only twice have I worked on a car where they weren't frozen, and both of those cars had severe power steering fluid leaks on the right side.
the gussets are painted with the rest of the car, then the control arms are installed... it's usually the paint on the shaft siezing to the bushing that holds it on. veyr tight fit... I usually take a torch and wire brush to it to remove the paint, then the new bushings slide right on.
the gussets are painted with the rest of the car, then the control arms are installed... it's usually the paint on the shaft siezing to the bushing that holds it on. veyr tight fit... I usually take a torch and wire brush to it to remove the paint, then the new bushings slide right on.
08-02-2003, 11:11 AM
#6
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Hopefully I will be able to post pics in the near future. But right now I don't own or have access to a digital camera (But I'm looking into that).
Davebond007 I have my Konis set at a 1/2 turn in from the softest setting. I think I can remember Matt93SE recommending that setting in a previous post. Also the Koni webstite recommended a 1/2 turn in for a car that has a moded suspension. I would recommend looking at the Koni website if you haven't already.
I went with the Eibach springs for a few reasons. I wanted the least amount of drop to hopefully eliminate the possible need for a camber kit to achieve the correct alignment. Even though an extra .3 drop pry would not cause an alignment issue (I've read mixed stories on the forum).
Also Eibach to me, seemed like the most reputable company out of the spring manufacturers I had to choose from. It seems like I've read mixed reviews/opinions on all the springs, but I got the impression Eibach was my safest bet. Also I wanted to try to maintain the most comfortable ride possible and I'm under the impression that the more the car is dropped, the harsher the ride.
As for the lug-nuts, I had a hard time finding a place to buy Mcgard lug-nuts. I finally went to the Summit retail store near me and they offered me a set made by Gorilla for half the price. So I got those, if they do end up rusting, I can look for a set of Mcgards on eBay and hopefully pick them up a little cheaper.
(I bought my Moda R6 rims off eBay in almost like new condition, so that is why I didn't get a set of tuner lug-nuts with the purchase.)
Davebond007 I have my Konis set at a 1/2 turn in from the softest setting. I think I can remember Matt93SE recommending that setting in a previous post. Also the Koni webstite recommended a 1/2 turn in for a car that has a moded suspension. I would recommend looking at the Koni website if you haven't already.
I went with the Eibach springs for a few reasons. I wanted the least amount of drop to hopefully eliminate the possible need for a camber kit to achieve the correct alignment. Even though an extra .3 drop pry would not cause an alignment issue (I've read mixed stories on the forum).
Also Eibach to me, seemed like the most reputable company out of the spring manufacturers I had to choose from. It seems like I've read mixed reviews/opinions on all the springs, but I got the impression Eibach was my safest bet. Also I wanted to try to maintain the most comfortable ride possible and I'm under the impression that the more the car is dropped, the harsher the ride.
As for the lug-nuts, I had a hard time finding a place to buy Mcgard lug-nuts. I finally went to the Summit retail store near me and they offered me a set made by Gorilla for half the price. So I got those, if they do end up rusting, I can look for a set of Mcgards on eBay and hopefully pick them up a little cheaper.
(I bought my Moda R6 rims off eBay in almost like new condition, so that is why I didn't get a set of tuner lug-nuts with the purchase.)
08-04-2003, 11:09 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 535
Good work man, I just changed my front and rear struts recently, along with the front strut bearings and all 4 dust covers w/bump stops. It was not that tuff, just a little time consuming like you said. But, the good thing about working on your own car is that you save TONS of money on labor & it gives you a great feeling of accomplishment.
08-04-2003, 02:15 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Originally posted by snowman2155
Good work man, I just changed my front and rear struts recently, along with the front strut bearings and all 4 dust covers w/bump stops. It was not that tuff, just a little time consuming like you said. But, the good thing about working on your own car is that you save TONS of money on labor & it gives you a great feeling of accomplishment.
Good work man, I just changed my front and rear struts recently, along with the front strut bearings and all 4 dust covers w/bump stops. It was not that tuff, just a little time consuming like you said. But, the good thing about working on your own car is that you save TONS of money on labor & it gives you a great feeling of accomplishment.
08-04-2003, 06:14 PM
#9
This is what I like to read days before going into my susp
Let me ask you or anyone else (Mr H.) who have changed the rear bushing. I understand it's time consuming but was there any bushings in the rear that needed to be press off like the control arms? You are correct, the census seems to be setting the Koni's in the middle between the softest and firmess. Tommorrow I'll be rolling my car into the garage for the same susp change over, but with a little twist. Mr H. I got the exact same bushings you got from Kaleb.
08-04-2003, 07:41 PM
#10
mr H lol. The rear bushings can be pressed out with a vice...they are extreemly easy to get out. I used a very large socket and a small one. Put it in the vise to get it started and then just pull it the rest of the way out.
simple stuff especially since you work at a machine shop (you do right?)
simple stuff especially since you work at a machine shop (you do right?)
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