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Driving problems, please read

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Old 10-10-2003, 02:09 AM
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Driving problems, please read

OK guys, as usual the car I am talking about is a 92 SE auto. Ok so first I will explain the first odd thing. Ok to begin with, driving in a straight line, my wheel is cocked over to the left a few inches, not a big deal, but the thing is, if I give it heavy throttle ( not floored, but enough to feel) the wheel straightens. The problem with this is, if im in a turn and let off the gas some after giving it a lot, the wheels with jump over and my steering wheel stays still, cause im holding it. Understand? Its like theres a gap in there somewhere. Ok, so on to the problem thats actually worrying me a lot. I noticed so time ago that I was getting uneven friction coming to a stop, like a pulsing kinda stop, as if the rotors are warped, which I imagine they could be, so I didnt think about it much. But sometimes now I get this grinding sound thats in time with the rotation of the wheels, not RPMS, and I can almost feel it as if its near the firewall, I can hear it outside of the car when my windows are down. but it only does this when the wheel is turned a certain degree. At the moment that degree is slightly to the left. Also, if I come to a sudden stop, i get this thump/clank sound on the downshift to 1st I think. I dunno if thats related or not. My brain is thinking its something related to the CV joint or something like that. Sorry for my ignorance, but thankfully the org is here to help! =)
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Old 10-10-2003, 05:16 AM
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As far as the jumping goes (starting out cocked to one side and then jumping to the other under moderate to heavy acceleration (is there really any other kind?)) On my car it was caused by a well worn lower control arm bushings. So personally i'd start by checking those out.
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Old 10-10-2003, 08:40 AM
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Yeah. Sure sounds like LCA bushings to me, too. The pulling, the crooked steering wheel. Do you have trouble with it wandering, especially over uneven roads? Do you have some weird tire wear issues? Does the front end feel a little loose and unresponsive? All those are signs that your lower control arm bushings are worn.

Article on replacing bushings

Edit: If you don't feel up to the job of pressing out the old ones and pressing in the new ones, Matt93SE has been doing a core exchange program that gets you new bushings with little/no down time and only about $150 out of pocket.
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by grody
exchange program that gets you new bushings with little/no down time and only about $150 out of pocket.
That's the price for the arm from the dealer!
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:26 AM
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The price for ONE arm from the dealer is ~$220.
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
The price for ONE arm from the dealer is ~$220.
188.27 list my cost 161.??

If you don't believe me run a locate here http://www.partsvoice.com/partsvoice/
that link is also in the stickies
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:32 AM
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yeah, I just looked it up. nissanparts.cc has them for $143.46 each, plus $28.69 shipping.
so by the time you pay for and ship two of them, you're looking at $315.61.


Now, I'm rebuilding BOTH units for a total cost of about $150 AFTER shipping costs are included. Still want to scream?
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
yeah, I just looked it up. nissanparts.cc has them for $143.46 each, plus $28.69 shipping.
so by the time you pay for and ship two of them, you're looking at $315.61.


Now, I'm rebuilding BOTH units for a total cost of about $150 AFTER shipping costs are included. Still want to scream?
I was never screaming. I still ain't. It was not made clear as whether that was one side or two. For 2 you are correct it ain't a bad deal if you can't do it yourself.
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:39 AM
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Now that I've read the initial post, there's a lot more than control arm bushings here.
1. tie rod ends are probably shot. that or the control arms or ball joints can explain the car wandering around under gas/brake/turn.

2. the scraping sound under braking is either a completely worn out pad, or a bad wheel bearing... if the wheel bearing is shot, it can cause the brake rotor to move in relation to the caliper, which will let it scrape on the side of the caliper body.
if it's a completely worn out pad, you'll easily see that by the nasty looking rotors. they should be smooth in sight and feel. if they're rough, then it's 99% of the time from metal-on-metal contact and it's time to replace the rotors and pads.

the vibrations during braking can be many things. an out of balance tire, warped rotors, bad tie rod ends, bad ball joint, lower control arm bushings, the list goes on.

I highly suggest taking the car to a qualified mechanic if you're unable to do these repairs yourself.

Where are you located?
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Old 10-10-2003, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
I was never screaming. I still ain't. It was not made clear as whether that was one side or two. For 2 you are correct it ain't a bad deal if you can't do it yourself.
If you'll do a bit of searching on the LCA bushings, there's a lot of information posted about it and my little core exchange program that I've been doing for about a year now. Here's the main thread I'm referring to:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=171320
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Old 10-10-2003, 03:57 PM
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Im located in Lexington KY. I dont have any questions about the bushing, but about the rotors, the sound happens even when Im not on the brakes, does your theory still exist? And why would it only do it when the wheels are going in a certain direction? Thanks a lot so far guys, these problems REALLY take the fun out of driving...
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Old 10-10-2003, 04:45 PM
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I also had that noise. Mine would do it when i braked or turned a certian direction or hit a bump or sometimes just when i was driving straight. I checked my brake pad and all it was was the lil metal saftey thing was hitting. Ipulled it back a lil and now its gone. Now all i have to do is get new brakes.
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:15 PM
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Any more ideas??
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Old 10-11-2003, 06:53 PM
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If u get the grinding when ur still not on the brakes, it could be the pads. I had really bad warped rotors as if the owner before me drove with the parking brake on for a year. After too long of the initial throbbing, the brake pads got so bad that occasionally I'd have the grinding while braking or not. Start with those since you have to atleast have brakes. Then the gap and wheel pulling issue can be further diagnosed after that, but not too far after that.
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:59 PM
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I've seen a brake pad actually separate from the backing metal. Happened one of our company trucks, and unless you actually take the caliper off it's hard to tell if the pad itself has separated to the metal backing. It caused a grinding noise when you applied the brakes at lower speeds.
I've also had the bolts that attach the caliper to the mounting bracked come loose. I didn't torque them down. So my caliper would actually jump around and experienced alot of grinding while going over bumps.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-12-2003, 12:25 AM
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Well I dont really get any special noises while braking, but at very low speeds, its a grind, then sometimes a pop, which I can feel through the pedals. Being on the brakes doesnt really change the sound, thats why I figured it wasnt really the brakes problem, but I guess it COULD be...
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Old 10-12-2003, 12:28 AM
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Maybe someone in the Lexington KY area could check it out? that would be excellent...
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Old 10-12-2003, 07:52 PM
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It's your brakes. My maxima did the same thing when my pads were worn. It was howling all the time. had the brakes done and problem solved. Just don't use cheap pads. nissans tend to howl with cheap pads.
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Old 10-12-2003, 10:26 PM
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I never said they were howling? lol I said theres like a grinding and poping sound about every rotation of the wheel, but its only when the wheels are turned a certain direction, usually sightly to the left. This is a long with other problems. I wanna get my injectors and plugs and all that checked, I think im running rich
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