Ninty-two-se

I brought my buddy to the dealer where I bought my max in the spring to see if he had any more deals for my buddy. He found a car he liked and I found a Maxima SE with 147,xxx miles. Its a White 5spd and appears to have no dents in it(Didn't look too hard), just rust (all surface rust) by the gas filler door, on the black strip along the bottom of the car(may be alittle more than surface rust), behind the mud flaps, and where the spoiler is lifiting up(Both sides) The interior is black leather but the back seat is in poor condition, it has cracks at the top in the middle but that was all that I could find terribly wrong in the interior. Also the drivers seat was a bit loose, the bolts on the floor needed to be tightened (I'm pretty sure he'll tighten those up before the car leaves the lot). I didn't get a look under the car but he told me it was clean when he had it up on the lift. Now the bad... He told me that it would lose power and stall when he started out and sometimes when he was driving it. I would be able to describe it better if I had gotten a test drive but he was too busy selling my buddy a car, Which was ok because I wasnt looking to buy right then, I also didn't ask him to start it up so I could hear if the VTCs ticked but I guess I could just live with them ticking. So my main questions are: Do you maxima fanatics think this car is worth $2500 and what are the most likely suspects for the stalling? I've been reading that it could be the O2 sensors, the TPS, the MAF sensor, or even the alternator... So is it possible to work this/these problems out for under like $600 so I can fix the car for under the price of $3200 he wants after he takes it to a Nissan dealer to have the work the kinks out?

ghostmax

iTrader: (4)

probably not worth $2500. i say work the price down more! all those listed are suspects. test drive it too first. start picking out problems, etc. and say that it's going to cost x dollars to fix.

turns out that my car had an airbag light, seatbelt probelm, rear window regulators out, nonfunctional HU, etc. well a fuse fixed the airbag light, seatbelts (electron batt), and i already have a CD from my last car. point is, do some massive negotiation--that is, if you want the car.

ILOVEMYSE

I WARN YOU!!!!! Have someone check this car out. I bought a 93GXE with what I thought was surface rust. I took it to a body shop a week later to get the surface rust fixed up and found out that the wheel wells and trunk was badly cancered with rust. All third gens had a fuel filler recall this recall was partially becuase salt and mud was gettin trapped in the wheel well between the fuel filler neck causing corrosion a rust if or when the rust starts to spread it will be very expensive to fix.

Ninty-two-se

Thanks for the advice, I was definately going to take it out for a test drive and do a thorough inspection if I went back I want the Car but I guess I should save my money for my 280z project car that I just got...

westsider101

2500$ sounds like too much to me man!

especially if the car stalls and is not in perfect interior condition!

there are 2 steps you need to do before buying a used car, (whether its a maxima or not)!

1. get the VIN num and run it through CARFAX (carfax.com)

2. if no major prob's pop up in the report, test drive it to the nearest mechanic and havve him do a quick check on it!

then you'll know exactly in what condition the car is before you buy it!

and also if you find issues and still like to get the car, you can use them to get the guy to lower his price!!
trust me if you show him a carfax report with issues he wont argue when you tell him 2000 or maby even 1500!

now, both the carfax report and the trip to the mechanic are going to cost you.
so make sure you really like the car and you know that if the report seems ok you are going to get the car!
if that is the case then 9$ for a carfax report and a bit more for a mechanic exam are WELL WORTH IT!!!!!!!

hope this helped.