rough idling, rough running 91 SE.
#1
rough idling, rough running 91 SE.
So here is my problem, I am new to the boards because I just bought a 91 SE 5spd with 138k on it. I have changed out the spark plugs, fuel filter and the plug wires are new and so is the distributor. I have put some castrol syn power fuel system cleaner for its 1st gas fillup too. When idling, it idles from 700-800 RPMs up and down. Now, when the compressor is turned on, the RPMs bounce up and down by 500. If I was in gear and I let off the throttle, the car would sound like its burping. Can anyone help me out here? I thought this would be a bad muffler, but the sound is coming from the engine bay, not the rear.
#2
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
So here is my problem, I am new to the boards because I just bought a 91 SE 5spd with 138k on it. I have changed out the spark plugs, fuel filter and the plug wires are new and so is the distributor. I have put some castrol syn power fuel system cleaner for its 1st gas fillup too. When idling, it idles from 700-800 RPMs up and down. Now, when the compressor is turned on, the RPMs bounce up and down by 500. If I was in gear and I let off the throttle, the car would sound like its burping. Can anyone help me out here? I thought this would be a bad muffler, but the sound is coming from the engine bay, not the rear.
What were the problems that you bought the car with?
#5
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
I bought the car the way it sounded, thought it was a muffler, doesn't appear to be though.
What exactly is the IAC?
Wouldn't the check engine light come on if the EGR valve was stuck open.
What exactly is the IAC?
Wouldn't the check engine light come on if the EGR valve was stuck open.
sometimes called idle speed control or Throttle air bypass valve
Do you like the muffler?
#6
Arctic-
The IAC is designed to compensate for any extra load that is put on the engine, such as turning the AC on. If it is working the way it should, you should not see much if any drop in your idle speed either with or without the AC on.
The IAC is designed to compensate for any extra load that is put on the engine, such as turning the AC on. If it is working the way it should, you should not see much if any drop in your idle speed either with or without the AC on.
#7
Originally Posted by broncoguy
Arctic-
The IAC is designed to compensate for any extra load that is put on the engine, such as turning the AC on. If it is working the way it should, you should not see much if any drop in your idle speed either with or without the AC on.
The IAC is designed to compensate for any extra load that is put on the engine, such as turning the AC on. If it is working the way it should, you should not see much if any drop in your idle speed either with or without the AC on.
#8
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Idle Air Control
sometimes called idle speed control or Throttle air bypass valve
Do you like the muffler?
sometimes called idle speed control or Throttle air bypass valve
Do you like the muffler?
#9
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
I never received the muffler package. Tracking number from FedEx said it was delivered at 10:00am yesterday. Nobody in my office or myself received it? Whats goin on here?
#10
Here is what was diagnosed when taking the car to my mechanic my family uses. The exhaust section after the exhaust manifold is leaking. Once the heat shield was cut off, we could see the welds vibrate at the leak. Thats a $350 there. Then the front rotors wouldn't pass inspection so pads are going to be replaced at the same time. Both CV joint boots are torn, but still have grease in them. He said that he could only do replacement axles which are $200 per side, so I am going to wait 2 weeks for that. After that is done, the car should be in tip-top shape. The Magnaflow muffler will be installed once the PA inspection is done. Man, this car is costing alot to fix. But hopefully should last me 2-3 years since its got low miles for that year.
#11
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
Here is what was diagnosed when taking the car to my mechanic my family uses. The exhaust section after the exhaust manifold is leaking. Once the heat shield was cut off, we could see the welds vibrate at the leak. Thats a $350 there. Then the front rotors wouldn't pass inspection so pads are going to be replaced at the same time. Both CV joint boots are torn, but still have grease in them. He said that he could only do replacement axles which are $200 per side, so I am going to wait 2 weeks for that. After that is done, the car should be in tip-top shape. The Magnaflow muffler will be installed once the PA inspection is done. Man, this car is costing alot to fix. But hopefully should last me 2-3 years since its got low miles for that year.
![wall](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/peepwall.gif)
I got the rotors and pads too
Just a thought
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#12
Originally Posted by internetautomar
You doin a stock y-pipe or ya gonna warpspeed it?
I got stockers in stock
I got the rotors and pads too
Just a thought![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
![wall](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/peepwall.gif)
I got the rotors and pads too
Just a thought
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#13
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
Thanks for the offer, but this was a get it done quick job, no time for waiting, needed that inspection stickers on the window the same day. I drove 63 miles to this mechanic b/c he knows about Nissans and my family takes their vehicles into them. You have a clock by chance? My clock's minute button is stuck, so its the fastest clock one will ever see. Or cv axles and boots?
Axles I don't do because the shipping of the core back to me should negate any savings. boots I can do but I always recomend do the axle. less labor.
Clock thread
Matt does clocks
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