jdonavich

OK, so I just bought a fully loaded '93 SE with 5-speed and all options with 107K original miles. I love the car but recently it started making some very ugly noises. After surfing the web and reading all of the information posted in this forum, I've come to the conclusion that I have the infamous VTC problem. Here are the symptoms:

1. Lack of Power
2. Loud clattering noise from passenger side of engine (worst when engine is cold).

Since I'm mechanically inclined, I would like to do the job myself. Has anyone else done this repair per Nissan TSB #NTB-95-022? What service manual should I buy? They have a Chilton's down at the auto store for $15. Also, how much will the parts cost from Nissan and how much work is this going to be?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I know this VE engine will run much stronger once I get the VTC working properly.

thanks,
Jeremy

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

one so far on this or the other 3-gen bbs. I don't want to insult your intelligence but just how mechaniclly inclined? I would say you would have to have some engine work under your belt(ie.. timing belt change, head gasket repair, etc...) Not becuase of the difficulty but just to have a good understanding about engine mechanics. I ended up taking the engine out becuase I had some exhaust manifold studs broken, vtc were bad, and I need to do a clutch job. So I thought it was just easier to take out the engine and tranny and do all the work at one time. Now just for vtc repair you don't have to take out the engine. But stuff is harder to get to becuase the vtc assemblies are close to the passenger side firewall. If the rear one is bad also, then the intake manifold has to come off so you can take the rear cam cover off. In either case, the timing covers have to come off to get the vtc assemblies out. Remember the following things:

1) MARK EVERYTHING ON THE INTAKE/EXHAUST CAMS, VTC ASSEMBLIES AND SPROCKTS. IF YOU DON'T AND THE ENGINE MOVES, IT'S GONNA BE A ***** TO LINE IT ALL UP AGAIN

2) CLEAN THE OIL GALLIES THAT FEED THE VTC ASSEMBLIES. THESE CLOG AND IS THE CAUSE OF THEM FAILING. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS, THEY WILL FAIL AGAIN W/ IN ONE OR TWO YEARS.

3) INSPECT THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS. GOOD TIME TO REPLACE THEM IF WORN. ALSO CHECK TO SEE THAT THE CHAINS ARE IN GOOD CONDITION.

4) I CANNOT IN GOOD FAITH RECOMMEND REBUILDING THE VTC ASSEMBLIES. EVEN THOUGH NISSAN SELLS A KIT, THEY ARE A CRAP SHOOT IF THEY WORK OR NOT. NISSAN PUT TWO REBUILT(THAT THEY DID NOT WARRANTY) IN MINE AND ONE FAILED AND ONE IS WORKING. GUESS WHICH ONE FAILED? THE REAR ONE OF COURSE!

Let me know if you have any further questions.

jdonavich

Jeff,

The previous owner told me that he had Nissan repair the broken VTC sprokets recently which is why I was so surprised to hear this noise coming from under the hood. Well, I went down to Steven's Creek Nissan this morning to see what the deal was and they told me both exhaust manifolds are leaking. Apparently, exhaust studs breaking on these engines is a common problem and that's exactly what happened to mine. He said that one stud broke off and another is missing completely. Their recommendation was to replace both manifolds (WTF?) and replace all existing studs with new ones per TSB. He wanted something like $1700 for this and I politely told him "no thanks."

I am very mechanically inclined and could easily tackle the VTC problem. I just wanted to know what was involved and where I could find detailed instructions on how to address this common issue with the VE motor. So here's what I plan on doing with the leaking exhaust:

1. Replace missing exhaust stud.
2. Drill out broken exhaust stud and replace with new one.
3. Torque everything to specs and check for leaks.

Hopefully this will fix the leaking noise so I don't have to drop both manifolds and break off more studs in the process. I haven't even had time to put the car up on jacks and take a look. I think I'm getting lazier as I get older. I paid Nissan $90 to check out the noise because I couldn't seem to find out where it was coming from. That was the hard part, he he. Let me know if you have any advice since you went through the same fiasco with your Max.

thanks,
Jeremy

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Well that's one of the reasons why I took out the engine. So I could access both sides of the manifold. Well for starters, these manifolds are super thick. I have not seen or heard of ONE maifold warping regardless of how long the studs were broken. If you want to check them, clean the flange face and run a straight edge test on it. Mine were "Ally McBeal" flat. REAL FLAT! Every nissan dealer who sees broken studs wants to replace the manifolds becuase labor and parts are nothing compared to the mark-up on two new manifolds. If your gonna replace the brokens ones:

1) Replace ALL OF THEM w/ the upgraded versions(from the 300z I think) The unbroken ones are super easy to unscrew and they are stronger.

2) The front ones are easy. But I guarantee you that the stud broke inside the head. So you can't grab it w/ anything. That means drilling them out. Be extra carefull not to drill into the soft aluminum head or else you have to take the head off.

3) There's hardly any room to drill on the back manifold. Once you get under there you will see. If you are able to drill it out, let me know how you were able to do this. I am curious. thanks.

jdonavich

I figured the Nissan service manager was selling me snake oil. They wouldn't make much money by just drilling out one broken stud and replacing the rest with new ones so they want to sell me two new manifolds. What a joke! I'm going to go down tomorrow and get the newer studs for both manifolds from Nissan. I'm really hoping it's the front manifold that has the broken stud. I'll post more once I get the car up to do some poking around. Thanks for your help.

amax935

Get a Nissan FSM from Coutesy Nissan $75. If a dealer claimed to fix the VTCs they may have just done a NFG rebuild. Parts for the job are over $800 with gaskets.

jdonavich

OK, I got under the car last night and checked things out. The prognosis is pretty grim based on my findings. Here's the deal:

1 Broken stud (flush with head) on front manifold.
1 Broken stud (flush with head) on rear manifold.

The front studs look easy enough to replace but the rear is going to be impossible without yanking the head. I'm hoping the front manifold is making the noise but, most likely, they're both leaking. This really sucks!!! Why does Nissan use %&#*@ recycled metals in their brackets, bolts, etc.?

I'm heading down to Nissan at lunchtime to get the new studs, washers, nuts and gaskets for the front manifold. I'm going to just live with the rear manifold for now. If the noise keeps driving me crazy then I'll just get some ported and polished heads for the VE and deal with it then.

:-(

K Simmons

Are these things mounted on the end of the intake cam? I just removed my valve cover and saw this big thing on my cam just where the chain is connected. I was in route to investigating a posible burnt valve. I have heard "rattling" from my engine. until I started reading this forum I assumed it was an exaust leak. Is there a definate way to tell the difference? My noise seems to originate from the firewall under the intake. any help would be appreciated.

«§»Craig B«§»

iTrader: (5)

here's a pic of them
<img src="http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/maxima/vtc/vtc6.jpg">
also check out my page for more pics (click on my car)

K Simmons

Thank you,

Are these solenoids what usually goes bad or the sprockets themselves. The unit on the end of my intake cam is black and looks like it has been quite hot(burnt oil). If the solenoid is all that usually goes bad that should be cheaper than the sprocket and I can easily replace both.

I hope to remove the front or forward head tomorrow or saturday. This thing is a different animal from the motors I grew up working on. american, single cam, pushrod engines. So far I am enjoying the journey. Blah blah babble babble, later and thanks again.

93max

if the vtcs are working and u unplug em it'll start ticking? right?