Man, I gotta donate soon- I owe it to the org, good info; and it'll be cool to search again!

My problem- car would run great while cold (i.e. next morning to go to work) after my knock sensor replacement- then the idle and smoothness of the engine would grow increasingly worse until it hit warmed up temp, at which point it felt like a 4 cyl. Unplugging coils- cylinder 1 not firing- hmm. All others make the car stutter and almost die. Swap coil for known good one, pop in cyl- no go, still no effect on engine.

round 2- test power transistor, passes ok, but it's been explained to me how sometimes transistors can pass multimeter tests while not under load. Replace power transistor- now cyl 1 is dead when cold too (i think it was getting worse before I swapped the transistor anyway). OK then- move spark plug 1 to cyl 3 (spark plug is dark and was loaded with fuel), cyl3 plug to 1- cyl 1 still dead.

I am going insane- the car ran like a madman while cold- could barely shift in time in 1st- but when hot, I won't pull out in front of anyone- in fact, driving my beater 89 gxe now.

Background- new KS, subharness, temp sensor, pcv, spark plugs, power transistor <- all new tried good coil- injectors ohm'ed 10.8-10.9 (all 6)

I am going to check continuity tomorrow, and make sure I have no spark with the plug in the coil on an engine ground. Have FSM wiring diagrams out- does anyone have experience with this, or have any good ideas? The ECU showed no codes in diags 2 days ago- will redo the diags tomorrow as well. Thanks in advance.

 

sorry, i'm tired and just skimmed that but swap the coils from a working cylinder with #1, just the coils. If the problem then goes to the other cylinder (which it doesnt sound like it is) then it is a bad coil, but if the problem stays with cylinder 1 (with is what I believe you said) then time to test/replace the injector.

 

Time to INJECT!
another bad nissan injector
these cars would be great if it weren't for the flippin injectors

 

Allllrighty then- update- I went through the engine bay up and down with a multimeter and contact cleaner on Sunday- could find nothing out of spec. I finally gave up and wrote up my problem and dropped it off Sunday night.

Last night (4th call from the dealer) they call me up and were happy as heck to say they found the problem- intermittently connecting broken pin on the ECU!!
Holy moly- I've never taken the connectors out... well. They fixed the pin and are driving it today to make sure, but I should be getting away with just the $150 diag/labor fee, whoot.

I knew the way the car was acting (light switch performance so to speak) that it probably wasn't the injectors with the ohms reading so well, and the on/off nature of the power, but I was prayin'!

Thanks for the suggestions!
CK

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Your case is, in my opinion, one of the rare instances were the $tealership was actually worth the money.

 

if you have a fsm it has all the directions on how to check the ecu so you could of done it but 150$ isnt to bad

 

or the flippin coils!

Or any of the other flippin electrical gremlins (did Nissan collaborate with Lucas on electronics design?)!

Or the flippin window regulators!

Don't get me wrong. When it's all working right, it's great!

 

amen to that!! (except the coils, I dont have 'em ::knocks on wood:: )

 

I sell way more injectors than any other part
Except brake pads

 

Could be that your prices for coils are not that good compared to your injector prices. I got right coils for $50 and lefts for $64

 

I'm refering to what I see at work. well before I started the 3rd gen page.