Hey guys,
Any idea's on how to get rid of the rev limiter, or bump it aside from paying JWT? I know some of the 4th gen guys were able to get rid of the speed limiter their GXE's or GLE's have, but I kind of want to ditch the Rev limiter.

Here's what I think...
I know its built into the ECU, but I'm not sure how. I dont know exactly what triggers it, or if its possiable to do at all. I think that it might be tied into the Air/Fuel, so if you were to somehow get rid of it, after the redline the ECU would just stop sending fuel and/or spark signals.

The other thing I kind of worry about is how the car is acting up high... with out having JWT or possibly technisquare reprogram it, it might run leaner than it should and cause premature wear.

Idea's anyone? Just want to have some fun

(plus I had a great time scaring davebond last night... "ummmm....ummmmm....ummmmm..... shift!" )

 

I would be interested in finding out too - my GXE has a cut out at 200 km/h.

BUT !!!

Driving at high speeds for a long time is not good for your car (as minimum O2 msut be replaced; it cost me $250 to have it replaced on jag xjs) ... but for you pocket too - I was going 148 m/h in Nevada (nighttime, nobody on the road) and there happened to be a police car hiding behind a bridge ... well, $650 ticket (I wasn't locked up just because I had a canadian driver's licence).

 

well shawn, you could rig up a kind of RPM spoof...it could tell the ECU it's revving at 6400 so you could continue.

all you'd need to do is make a controller that keeps the fuel and spark increasing with the RPMs. you'd need some fancy wiring but I think it's possible.

OOOOOR you could just buy a burner and learn to edit your ECUs code...

 

... or order a ECU from Germany, where there are no speed limits

 

piggie-
I was trying to think about that, but then what about the Injectors and Coils? If the ECU thinks its only going for 6400rpm, it really isnt going to fire above that, or if it does it will start mis-firing or something, then again you said that other controller, at that point, I think the costs/hassle wouldnt be worth it and it would just be easier to go to JWT.

Good idea about the Germany thing, but then I remembered it was the REV limiter, There cars would still have the rev limiter.

 

I'm new to ECU modding, but have been doing for for 2 months now so far. if its anything like Honda ECUs in order to change the rev limits and other parameters you have to know the various hex address assigned inside the ECU...thus meaning first you'd have to remove the ERPOM decode it and run the bin file thorugh a hex editor(I use winhex for my P75 ECU) its a very complicated process if you don't know which hex address belongs to which heres a screen shot of my stock LS ECU in winhex, each of these values equals a certain parameter in the ECU...everything from knock snesor to rev limits...(if you look close where the arrow is the "FF" value is the knock sensor, simply changing that to "00" will disable the knock sensor) reburn the bin file and viola. I love this chipping stuff, its interesting as hell alot more serious than popping on intakes and exhaust.

 

Unless you get cams and or valve springs don't mess with the rev limiter. If you don't believe me I can show you pics of what valve float will do to your pistons and rocker arms. I floated my valves with the stock rev limiter that (6500rpm actual) in my 2nd gen. That was with isky 262 grind so the car did pull up top. If you would dyno the car then you could see how the a/f ratio and how the power curve looks. Floating the valves broke the #2 cylinder rocker arm and exhaust valve which put a nice hole in the piston and blew the headgasket. All of my valves were bent from holding the engine in the redline.

 

DA-MAX -I've seen some of your posts recently about ECU programming and flashing and thought it was interesting. I've been meaning to look into it abit more. I saved those links you provided in another thread, good reading on the ones I got threw. I was planning on asking you some more indepth questions as I learned more stuff.

Nismo- Thanks! I really do appreciate your comments. Kind of puts me in perspective. I'm kind of used to having a spare engine around so I dont really mind breaking stuff, but after reading your post it made me think about it again. I'm still interested in it because it would be a fun project to try.

 

I don't know much about redlining and for sure nothing about ECU's, but I was always under the impression that you should stay away from "the red rpm" Is it bad for the engine to hit the rev limiter? I have never tried to hit it in my max (I've got close at the track), does the rpm kick down if say you are sitting still w/ the clutch in and flooring it?



NNNOOOOOBBBIIIIIEEEEE

 

its Honda related, but if you wanna learn some more check out PGMFI...its pretty much the "holy land" as far as OBD0/1 Honda ECU chipping/coding goes, very good and at sometimes waaaaay too technical info, LOL---> http://www.pgmfi.org/phorum

 

Caleb-
Do you mean if your car is parked and you just push in the clutch or the car is not in gear and you redline put your foot to the floor and it goes past the redline will rev-limiter still kick in? If thats what you meant, then yes. No matter what conditions, it will still run into the rev-limiter. When you hit it, it bounces the needle down a few hundred RPM's. On my dads 5th gen its very noticeable, while on my 3rd it isnt so noticeable.

I ran my old black maxima at redline on the highway for a mile or two, until I realized that it really wasnt that much fun, lol.

Last night I was running it in second and it was going 6400rpm.... then 6500rpm...... 6600rpm (dave says shift) then 6700rpm. I dont know if it got near to 6800 because I wasnt really looking at the tach Didnt hit the rev limiter though. Probably pretty close

 

Mr.G-
ok yeah that's what I meant. I've always been afraid to run it up that high to find out if it will kick down. My main question is, is it bad for engine? (I wouldnt think it could be good)

 

Well judging by Nismo's experience... then again he said he was running it that high for extended periods of time, not just a pull and shift.

Personally I dont mind redlining a car at all. Granted I dont do it to my moms subaru, but thats because I fell sorry for that weak **** engine.

Really though, I dont think its anything really special, mine doesnt seem to pull too much past 6k. I just run it that high because it's just what I do, lol. Watch me eat my words and have to swap engines though

edit: also our's are VE's and they seem to be abit more friendly to the top end.

 

I think the tach reads fast a bit. "6700" isn't really 6700.

 

A suabru engine weak?
You don't know much about em do you.
Have you ever seen a blown subaru motor?
I've owned 2 subies own a 86 Turbo 4wd (not AWD) GL-10 and a 90 Legacy FWD Both of those ran like bat's outta hell with awesome Torque especially the legacy.

 

agree ... in fact none of maxima reading are accurate. same as the speed readings - it shows, say, 120 km/h on the dash but my GPS unit says I'm going just 112 or 115 km/h (sometimes difference is 10 km/h but it's always understating actual speed). no perfection here. i'm not even talking of a fuel guage (on 2 quarters in the middle I make twice mileage of the rest two).

 

the only problem with this statement is that us Amarkins dont speek da metrik

 

May be you speak russian? - I would explain where it comes from and goes to ... or how about german? ... or french? how many foreign languages DO you speak ...? - rusty spanish must be one of them i guess

BTW, many tools required for maxima are metric - are you lost here too, ha?

PS: 1 mile = 1.609 km :

 

I programmed my ECU myself if your interested please let me know maybe i can help you out in doing it urself or i may be of some help doing it for you the rest of these guys on .org think im a bull****ter but if would like so help repro the rom i can help you out check out my cardomain site
www.cardomain.com/id/90SEBlack There is not verymuch info about the repro chip but if ur interested e-mail me Dilbert707@aol.com . The program on the chip is the stock VG30ett program with some minor changes to the fuel and ignition maps , U may need to upgrade injectors and FMU to run this program with the max fuel system. To remove the ROM u must remove the 4 screws from the ECU case thus revealing the circuit boards now there is a main board where the ROM is connected and a daughterboard which covers the rom u must remove this also but becarefull as it is connected with a small ribbon cabel , Our roms are not plug and play unfortunatly it must be desoldiered after i removed mine i installed a socket to recieve my rom so that i coult remove it without having to desoldier it every time, I suggest that after you put the socket in u leave the stock program on there and test the ECU to make sure that u soldiered everyting back in after ur sure that it works remove it again and begin burning ur new program our roms are not UV Sensitive (Or just really hard to erase with light) anyway i just flashed it after modifing a VG30ET Program reinstalled the repro ROM and alittle tuneing adjusting idle and upgrading to 92+ octane gas and the gains were not dramastic but there was an improvement , The main reason that i did this was to run my TT injectors because i am upgraing to a turbo in the next month or so.. If anyone is any more interested in my method e-mail me Dilbert707@aol.com

 

For most cars that have rev-limiters it's not bad to use that limiter. I have autocrossed and road raced (not in my Max though) and there are situations where you have to stay on the rev-limiter. Situation like going down the back straight coming up to your brake zone and all of a sudden you hit the rev-limiter. You have two choices, shift up and lose that power up time, or just stay on the throttle bumping off the rev-limit. I've seen cars stay on that rev-limiter from Yugos to Z06s.

However, if there is slop (read wear) in your timing belt/chain it will become exagerated at higher RPM. On an interference engine (the Nissan V6 is) if your timing slips you can bangs valves against psitons.

And NEVER just sit with you clutch in and rev the engine to redline!

 

what romeditor are you using?

 

don't have a cow man. You just can't take a joke I guess...

 

Ha-ha!!! I guess you are the one who can't take a joke. I just paid with the same coin on your rude joke.
And I'm sorry for misunderstanding of your good intentions.

Anyway this forum is not really the best place to discuss it.

 

The Program that i used was suprisingly calleld "ROM EDITOR" if anyone is in need of it lemme know, I think i got it from CNET.com but if it cant be found i have it

 

Rom Editor looks like this (there's also a picture of it on 90SEBlack's page)






Here is the link for Rom Editor. Be sure to get the E version which is in English. http://www.925style.com/edittool_vb.html

 

Thanks mtcookson now i dont have to search where i got it from!! Its very easy to use that program all u have to do is load the *.bin files and load the address (*.adr file) and edit away, and flash ur new ROM thats about it.

 

yeah thats why I asked...I've had the non-english earlier version and it barely works worth a damn, I'm gonnna try that one out.