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Solution to intermittent stalling and hard starting problem

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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:56 PM
  #1  
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Solution to intermittent stalling and hard starting problem

Hi guys, I've been telling you all about the hard starting and stalling problem now for a month or so now. The car starts fine when it's cold, and starts fine when it's hot. It doesn't want to start after it's been sitting for about an hour or so. It cranks over and over for a good 5-10 minutes and eventually starts.
So here it is, my friend John who is a Nissan Master Tech, teels me to come and see him today regarding this issue. I get there and we let the car sit for about an hour and sure enough, I go to start it, and it does its thing of NOT starting. Great, now he can do a multitude of tests on it.
1. We have spark
2. we have fuel pressure
3. we have injector pulse
4. MAF sensor okay

But!! WE remove the coolant temp sensor and there was alot of corrosion ( white powder ) we cleaned off and put back in. I'm on a test run for the next two days. And a good note, I got home and went down to start the car an hour later, and it started right up! So any of you with similar problems, check the coolant temp sensor! It could be your solution.
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 04:32 PM
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But, Do you know why the coolant sensor is a problem?
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
But, Do you know why the coolant sensor is a problem?
No, do you? I'm no tech, believe me. It just seems to have cured the problem.so far........ we'll see.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 07:14 AM
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JEFF93SE,

Is this also a VG engine problem or only VE? If so, where is the sensor located on the VG engines??

thanks
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JEFF93SE
No, do you? I'm no tech, believe me. It just seems to have cured the problem.so far........ we'll see.
The coolant sensor is one of the sensors that help the computer calculate the correct amount of fuel to spray.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:11 AM
  #6  
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Where is it located and how does one test to see if it's working properly???
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxdude
Where is it located and how does one test to see if it's working properly???
...
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 02:20 PM
  #8  
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Sorry guys but I don't have an answer to that.
Get an FSM it will have the answers.
It is normally on the head though.

or for a really large pic http://catservices.wrencheadpro.com/.../FSE/36413.jpg
or
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 04:58 PM
  #9  
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I was having almost the same problem as you, my temp sensor was also coroded and had a trouble code for it in the ECU, but I fixed it, and that did NOT solve the problem. Like everything else I tried, the problem was gone for a while then came back after a few miles of driving. Well, I took out all the coil packs to insepct for cracks and sure enough ALL 3 of the front coils were cracked and none of the rears. This would explain why it hesitated but cought itself most of the time. I used electrical tape wound VERY tightly around the cracked bodies and the problem is gone so far. I gotta go find some good ones now and I will be good to go. I have a theory as to why this happens. Oil is a major attacker on hard thermoplastics. The coils go through a the valve cover gasket which I have a leak in and I am sure most others with this problem have had as well. The oil makes the coil brittle and it cracks when it gets hot.

As for the temp sensor, reason it corodes is more than likely because of the air blead screw located RIGHT NEXT to the sensor. When filling the coolant, the blead screw gets some coolant in the sensor, probably doesnt happen as much on the VG cause the sensor is mounted sideways and water can easily run off and not sit in the sensor body.

Damon
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Damonb
I was having almost the same problem as you, my temp sensor was also coroded and had a trouble code for it in the ECU, but I fixed it, and that did NOT solve the problem. Like everything else I tried, the problem was gone for a while then came back after a few miles of driving. Well, I took out all the coil packs to insepct for cracks and sure enough ALL 3 of the front coils were cracked and none of the rears. This would explain why it hesitated but cought itself most of the time. I used electrical tape wound VERY tightly around the cracked bodies and the problem is gone so far. I gotta go find some good ones now and I will be good to go. I have a theory as to why this happens. Oil is a major attacker on hard thermoplastics. The coils go through a the valve cover gasket which I have a leak in and I am sure most others with this problem have had as well. The oil makes the coil brittle and it cracks when it gets hot.

As for the temp sensor, reason it corodes is more than likely because of the air blead screw located RIGHT NEXT to the sensor. When filling the coolant, the blead screw gets some coolant in the sensor, probably doesnt happen as much on the VG cause the sensor is mounted sideways and water can easily run off and not sit in the sensor body.

Damon
Well, I spoke too soon, the problem is back, and it seams to be worse, gonna pull the coils and see if the tape burned. That will tell me for sure it was the coils or not.

Damon
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:31 AM
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when I taped mine, the heat shrunk the tape and there were spaces in between the cracks. I just replaced the cracked one. It helped even more. At the time, I had also put in a new y pipe and the guy that helped me wiped off the o2 sensor. This seemed to have helped, but I don't know for sure.

Now mine will stumble on hard acceleration once in a very great while and I think it might be my cam sensor or throttle position sensor. Of course, now I am going to have to think about the temp sensor, too...

damn these cars and all the fluckin sensors!

Also, Jeff93SE, my car has never, ever had any kind of problem starting. In fact, amazingly it starts on the very first crank 99 percent of the time, even if I don't drive it for several days.
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