acidspit86

when i accelerate, normally i would have a good amount of low end torque, but now my cars messing up. now when i give it gas , it doesnt seem to matter how much, it just lazily gets up to right around 3000rpms then roars off. what could be wrong?

subs1000w

proboly somsensor srewing with your ecu and causing the ecu to pull the timing back

id check the knock sensor first but it could be alot of things

also when was your last tunup

harrymay

might be a clogged exhaust, bad plugs, bad o2 sensor, bad maf, bad knock sensor, clogged intake, bad cap/rotor, bad plugs/wires, could be a number of things

surfermax92

Could be injectors...is the car throwing any codes?

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

that is my guess, too. i would nearly bet money that is what it is. my car had this problem. i replaced all injectors at once.

amaxima

I have the same issue on my VG...

I was curious, how do you tell if your cat is now blocked/bad?

acidspit86

where can i get code readings, the car is not OBD-II so i cant use our scanner at school, do i have to bring it to a dealer? how much do all injectors cost?

acidspit86

what is the rotor supposed to look like when its good and what does it look like when its bad, in other words, how do i know if its bad?

acidspit86

plugs are platinum NGK with about 10k miles, wires have about 10k miles on them, intake is free, exhaust is free

subs1000w

if the cap and rotor havnt been replace in the last 60k miles they should be

surfermax92

I don't have my FSM with me, but maybe someone with one could help you....there 's a way to put your ECU in self-diagnostic mode, it'll tell you what you need to do.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

in all honesty, i never read codes or know one thing about how to check them. and i probably would benefit from knowing. but i strongly urge you to check your injectors: you can do it by running the engine at idle. one-by-one, disconnet then reconnect each injector wire connector. the bad one is the one that is disconnected and the car does not run any differently. if this test proves fruitless, then, more than likely, the injectors are not the issue. BUT, an injector can work partially. but...

if you have this power dropout on acceleration >>>all of the time<<<, then your chances of finding the bad seed, if there is one, are great.

doing this test will perhaps eliminate or confirm possible injector failure.

ChrisCheezer

does it have a hesitation after 3k rpms?
-what color is the exaust?
- is it dumping fuel/black carbon out of that tail pipe when u get this hisitation? (if so its ur O2 sensor un plug it and if it runs a little better then chang out the sensor)
is the car running rich? does it smell like gas? how many miles..

- u need to be more spacific when it comes to car problems that way you could fix it quicker.

grody

Whoah, that's setting you up to waste a lot of money. What if he's got a fouled plug. The injector could be fine, but the cylinder still won't fire. Disconnecting the injector wouldn't change a thing, but it wouldn't be the problem. So now he spends $85 on an injector and $10 on a gasket, and spends an afternoon tearing his intake manifold off, wrestling his injector out of the rail, and putting everything back together. He starts the car to realize that he took out a perfectly functional injector and is no closer (other than knowing one thing that it isn't) to solving his problem. Get a multimeter and check the resistance of the injectors. It could be the difference between a $1.69 spark plug changed in 5 minutes and close to $100 and an afternoon wasted.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

grody is correct: weeding out the resistance issue should be done B4 going out to buy new injectors. always. so shame on me. i even bought a meter for that and just that. so i'm hellbent for injectors because i have been dealing with that recently. and drawing at straws in thin air try to solve his problem. haste makes waste.

thank you, grody. and best of luck acidspit86.

bansheenomore

Timing Off?? When my VTCs went bad and advanced the timing all the time that is how it ran. No power til 3000+ then ran like rabbit in heat.

acidspit86

the exhaust is normal color, it smells like gas kinda but my y-pipe has a leak and i have no cat. 120,000 miles.

usmanasif

No cat? Hmmmmm.....

Psubird83

No Cat could be the problem, your o2 sensor could be bad

acidspit86

why would that matter, the O2 sensor is in front of the cat. what are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor?

acidspit86

a bad o2 sensor also turns on the check engine light doesnt it?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

nope, the o2 goes bad without tripping the SES light.
also no cat will significantly shorten the o2s life span

acidspit86

i tried pulling the injector power one at a time while the engine is running.... a few injectors made less of a difference than the others. when i pull it, i can still definately tell its running on 5 cyl, but it doesnt chug and make noise as much as the others when i unplug them. could this be a weak injector?

also, can any one tell me what a bad rotor looks like?
thanks

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

ok. you said "a few of the injectors made less of difference," but this implies some did make a difference, some did not. you may have multiple injectors going bad at once. but...

have you done an injector resistance check yet? each one should be between 10-14ohms. if it is a bit above that, you've got too much resistance and the injector is bad.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just an FYI Bosch redesigned the feed on the new replacement injectors.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

could you be more specific? do mean side versus top feed?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

They relocated the side feed to be LOWER in the injector.

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

hmmm. what does this gain?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

probably to reduce the clogging

acidspit86

resistence on all injectors is 12.5 ohms + or - .2ohms

bonzelite

iTrader: (2)

well. good thing you checked that before jumping off a cliff to replace them. more than likely it is not the injectors themselves. maybe you have blowby. oil fouling.

OneBAdSE

my max is literally the same way. when its cold it has all the power it should, but when its warm when i floor it in 1st there is alot of lag before it actually kicks in around 3gs. same with 2nd gear car is a dog until 3g area then it gets down. i changed plugs w/ ngk an didnt help. rotor looked good but ill probably get a new one anyway along with plug wires. if that doesnt work i guess ill lean towards o2 sensor.