Just flushed the brake system
#1
Just flushed the brake system
My brake pedal has always gone down really low since I bought this car about 1 1/2 years ago. My dad replaced the drum brakes a while back, because they were making clicking noises while stopping and were pretty worn down. So the noise problem was gone and my brake was really high up. It was fixed! No more pressureless pedal going all the way to the floor!
But then about a week later it gradually got lower and lower until I was back to where I started. No pressure until the pedal gets near the floor. So I have a low brake again. Might I also add that the brake has always been a bit spongy(dunno if this is normal)... So I figured I had some air in the lines.
I spent most of today flushing the brake system as recommended in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=227406. I had everything I needed, the bleeder kit, and brand new Castrol LMA brake fluid.
So I followed the instructions, everything went smooth, I made sure not to get any air in the system by keeping the bleeder bottle/hose above the bleeder nipple at all times.
But when I went to test it out to see if it helped to raise the pedal any or make it firmer at least, it didn't If anything the pedal goes even lower now. It still stops the car the same, but the lowness/and slight sponginess is still there. How can this be? All the fluid is brand new! I took my time and made certain that no air get into the lines!
So going back to the beginning of my post, I guess the lowness has to do with the drum brakes, because as I said before, when my dad first replaced the drum brakes, the pedal was perfect, I barely had to push it down to get it to stop the car.
What a waste of my time... you guys got any suggestions on how to make the pedal higher and firmer? Thanks for reading, sorry about the long post.
But then about a week later it gradually got lower and lower until I was back to where I started. No pressure until the pedal gets near the floor. So I have a low brake again. Might I also add that the brake has always been a bit spongy(dunno if this is normal)... So I figured I had some air in the lines.
I spent most of today flushing the brake system as recommended in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=227406. I had everything I needed, the bleeder kit, and brand new Castrol LMA brake fluid.
So I followed the instructions, everything went smooth, I made sure not to get any air in the system by keeping the bleeder bottle/hose above the bleeder nipple at all times.
But when I went to test it out to see if it helped to raise the pedal any or make it firmer at least, it didn't If anything the pedal goes even lower now. It still stops the car the same, but the lowness/and slight sponginess is still there. How can this be? All the fluid is brand new! I took my time and made certain that no air get into the lines!
So going back to the beginning of my post, I guess the lowness has to do with the drum brakes, because as I said before, when my dad first replaced the drum brakes, the pedal was perfect, I barely had to push it down to get it to stop the car.
What a waste of my time... you guys got any suggestions on how to make the pedal higher and firmer? Thanks for reading, sorry about the long post.
#2
It might be your brake's master cylinder. When mines went it got extremely spongy and at times felt like no pressure was in the system. Try getting a used master cylinder from a junkyard or a new one and if you can upgrade up to stainless steel brake lines. They help alot. Good luck !!
#4
I'd check the calipers just to make sure, then go to the wheel cylinders and check those, then check the lines.
On my mustang I replaced everything and went from an extremely spongy pedal (I'd have to pump it to build pressure) and extremely long (and dangerous) stopping distances to now being able to lock them up fairly easily
On my mustang I replaced everything and went from an extremely spongy pedal (I'd have to pump it to build pressure) and extremely long (and dangerous) stopping distances to now being able to lock them up fairly easily
#5
I've heard of air getting into the master cylinder and, because the master cylinder is usually slightly angled up, it's hard to get the air out. Sometimes you need something called a bench bleed, where the shop removes the master cylinder, bleeds it out of the car (hence the term bench bleed) reinstalls it, and then bleeds the whole system. Something along these lines anyway - can't say I've ever had it done myself.
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