VE problems (again) any help? kind of long
#1
VE problems (again) any help? kind of long
OK, after a bried hiatus, my VE is acting up again. It is stalling intermittently at WOT. It usually goes OK for a while, then once it starts acting up, it will do it frequently.
I took it to a mechanic today (freebie, he's a friend), who has never worked on a Nissan before. We went for a ride and the car acted up on the freeway. His initial thought was a bad TPS.
He ran a Snap-On Vantage tester on the TPS (key in "on" position, engine off) The tester showed that the voltage readings for the TPS were 9.49 volts (throttle closed) and 12.2 volts (open). Both numbers are waaay above what the tester specified (I didn't write those down). I think the battery itself tested at like 12.4.
Next he tried the MAF sensor. The car was not running, but the MAF was warm and it came out to 12.07 volts. The numbers specified on the tester were .2-.5 volts with the engine cool and 1.0-1.3 volts with the engine warm. Not even in the right ballpark.
Now, the mechanic is telling me that he thinks my ECU is bad, since there is basically an open circuit which shouldn't be there.
However, the car seems to run and drive fine, except at WOT or similar hard acceleration. It doesn't really make sense to me.
Does anyone think he messed up? Anything else I am missing here?
I know a lot of people have run into the stalling, but this is driving me crazy. Right now I want to focus on the possibility it could be my ECU. My next step is to take it to my local stealership and have them ream me for $75 to run the right diagnostic (OBD-1) on it.
Any help would be appreciated
chris
I took it to a mechanic today (freebie, he's a friend), who has never worked on a Nissan before. We went for a ride and the car acted up on the freeway. His initial thought was a bad TPS.
He ran a Snap-On Vantage tester on the TPS (key in "on" position, engine off) The tester showed that the voltage readings for the TPS were 9.49 volts (throttle closed) and 12.2 volts (open). Both numbers are waaay above what the tester specified (I didn't write those down). I think the battery itself tested at like 12.4.
Next he tried the MAF sensor. The car was not running, but the MAF was warm and it came out to 12.07 volts. The numbers specified on the tester were .2-.5 volts with the engine cool and 1.0-1.3 volts with the engine warm. Not even in the right ballpark.
Now, the mechanic is telling me that he thinks my ECU is bad, since there is basically an open circuit which shouldn't be there.
However, the car seems to run and drive fine, except at WOT or similar hard acceleration. It doesn't really make sense to me.
Does anyone think he messed up? Anything else I am missing here?
I know a lot of people have run into the stalling, but this is driving me crazy. Right now I want to focus on the possibility it could be my ECU. My next step is to take it to my local stealership and have them ream me for $75 to run the right diagnostic (OBD-1) on it.
Any help would be appreciated
chris
#2
just to check the motor itself, go through all 6 coils unplugging them one by one to see if its any specific cylender/coil acting up, and a compression test
my #1 and #2 cyl are dead, so it needs a rebuild 136k miles, plenty of VEs last way longer than that which brings me to re-question the 'reliability' of this car..
my #1 and #2 cyl are dead, so it needs a rebuild 136k miles, plenty of VEs last way longer than that which brings me to re-question the 'reliability' of this car..
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