95se5spd

This is a for all you guys out there with hesitation problems on the ve if your car turns off all of the sudden and it hesitates i suggest the first thing you have to do is get the ptu away from you motor. i had this problem and couldn't figure out what the problem was i checked the MAF and the coil packs and had no luck everything seemed to be working perfectly so one day i decided to talk to a friend down here in miami that used to work for the Z shop and the first thing he told me was this. he said that when the PTU starts going bad it starts to do this when it gets hot so he told me to get it away from the motor and to driver the car around. Jackpot it's been like a week i've been driving like this and no problem so far. I suggest before buying anything new try this and you might walk away with a nice free fix.

HTPerformance

iTrader: (6)

What is the PTU??? care to explain how you got it away from the motor...

Thanks...

Brian

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

um, yeah, what is a PTU?

more info please...

95se5spd

ptu is the power transisitor unit. It's a little black piece that's right next to the cam position sensor (where you can advance the timing) on the head easy just unscree the two little bolts and separate it from the motor. There is a flange that is also screwed in the motor which is where the PTU is at if you want take those bolts off also and put some eat wrap in between the the PTU and the flange which is what i did

jwmaxse

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, I will go out and try that right now.

jwmaxse

iTrader: (1)

Didn't work for me. Still runs like piece of junk when it is hot. Thanks though.

donts7

My 1992 VE has the same problem it runs great when cold but cuts out and surges when hot. I noticed a funny thing thou when the gas tank is less than half full it does not act up. The spacer under the transistor is a good idea even if you are not having problems.
Regards Don

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Check your temp sensor connector. See if it's all corroded inside. Clean the connector and the sensor connector. It's the red connector very near the 4 and 5th injectors(inbetween sorta)

Damonb

mine does that when it is hot or cold now. I have replaced the PTU (left the old one there and just hung the new one next to it) and still no good. :-( I am seriously about to cry here, I just bought the damn car and NOTHING is working to fix it! Gonna take the injectors out and inspect for leaky one this weekend hopefully.

HTPerformance

iTrader: (6)

I had the same symptoms....but I had water in my gas tank....gas drier (ethanol) fixed the problem...put 3 bottles in, the equivalent needed for 30 gallons of gas...

Havent had the problem for 250 miles now, yay!

Brian

jwmaxse

iTrader: (1)

Upon further inspection, I think the knock sensor that I replaced is not working correctly. I think it is giving some funky readings and the car is going into safe mode or something (no engine light though). I'm going to run it with the resistor in it in the mean time and have some VE fun!

Damonb

I have been thinking it could be water too in all honesty. I am going to put the dryer in there ASAP, how long did it take for the problem to go away when you did this? I am taking all my injectors to Kinsler Fuel Injection on Monday morning to have all the injectors flushed, cleaned and inspected anyway for good state of mind.

HTPerformance

iTrader: (6)

Once I added it I didnt have the problem....I'd say try at least 2 bottles of the gas drier, its cheap so...

It should at least lengthen the time in between the occurences, if thats the case then you need to add more, which might be better done if you only have half a tank left, and add a full bottle...

I am a chemist, so...adding the ethanol will take care of the water condensation problem in the fuel lines...

By letting the gas go down to 1/2 tank the water should be more concentrated, and just add the gas drier if the first 2 bottles of it doesnt completely do it...

Brian