Intake
03-25-2001, 06:53 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 39
I saw on guy posted his pic of his max with the same setup. and he told me it was a eclipse non turbo. but, you have to do some mod on the intake pipe. first you have to plug up the vacumn tube that comes pre welded on. and make your own nibble for the A.A.C valve. and the other mod you have to do is that the flex section of the intake is bigger then the intake pipe. so you have put a piece of intake couple material at the end where the flex section joins the intake pipe. And. oh yeah, you need the intake adapter for the airfilter too.
03-25-2001, 07:28 PM
#10
Pusssseeeehhhh
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,001
Originally posted by LeeIt2Me
I saw on guy posted his pic of his max with the same setup. and he told me it was a eclipse non turbo. but, you have to do some mod on the intake pipe. first you have to plug up the vacumn tube that comes pre welded on. and make your own nibble for the A.A.C valve. and the other mod you have to do is that the flex section of the intake is bigger then the intake pipe. so you have put a piece of intake couple material at the end where the flex section joins the intake pipe. And. oh yeah, you need the intake adapter for the airfilter too.
I saw on guy posted his pic of his max with the same setup. and he told me it was a eclipse non turbo. but, you have to do some mod on the intake pipe. first you have to plug up the vacumn tube that comes pre welded on. and make your own nibble for the A.A.C valve. and the other mod you have to do is that the flex section of the intake is bigger then the intake pipe. so you have put a piece of intake couple material at the end where the flex section joins the intake pipe. And. oh yeah, you need the intake adapter for the airfilter too.
03-26-2001, 07:58 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 755
It may look pretty, but.....
"Re: Hi Flow Intake for I30 99' q45tech
Again why ? No matter what you read, true accurate dyno test (with the hood closed!!!!) vs open hood fake tests allowing cool air to enter will not show more than 1-2 HP improvement on an I30 at any rpm from 4-7k. Every 11F increase in air temp entering the engine causes a 1% power reduction.
What you want is a cool outside of engine compartment low loss air filter that won't suck water in the rain. It takes all the factory engineers some time and effort to create one.
Even 10 HP on a 3,000 lb car is not significant increasing 0-60 by only 0.1 second or less. Because simple less than $500 mods (filter/exhaust) ususally only add to 5500+ power when you need more torque in 1,000-4000 rpm where you spend more time.
In a post 95 ODB2 world, You'll get more real power out of a mundane thing like intake system cleaning than most aftermarket hop up items ($under $1,000) [except ecu mods if you find an expert].
Torque x [RPM/5252] = HP in US units."
and...
"K&N [pop charger] hot air intake q45tech
The MAF besides providing air flow density in grams per second also measures the incomimg air temperature.
The ecu expects to see no more than 120F at the MAF for those Arizona summers because of the Q already effective cold air intake. Now in 100F heat and stalled traffic the under hood temperature can easily get 180F-190F this would be the air intake temp at MAF with a popcharger!
The MAF reads the temp and the ecu goes into convulsions thinking the coolant system has failed but no high water temp reading so it reduces timing to try to lower temp.
The ecu was not programmed to expect this combo because it cannot occur in the real world without something being wrong other than at hot soak start up."
Again why ? No matter what you read, true accurate dyno test (with the hood closed!!!!) vs open hood fake tests allowing cool air to enter will not show more than 1-2 HP improvement on an I30 at any rpm from 4-7k. Every 11F increase in air temp entering the engine causes a 1% power reduction.
What you want is a cool outside of engine compartment low loss air filter that won't suck water in the rain. It takes all the factory engineers some time and effort to create one.
Even 10 HP on a 3,000 lb car is not significant increasing 0-60 by only 0.1 second or less. Because simple less than $500 mods (filter/exhaust) ususally only add to 5500+ power when you need more torque in 1,000-4000 rpm where you spend more time.
In a post 95 ODB2 world, You'll get more real power out of a mundane thing like intake system cleaning than most aftermarket hop up items ($under $1,000) [except ecu mods if you find an expert].
Torque x [RPM/5252] = HP in US units."
and...
"K&N [pop charger] hot air intake q45tech
The MAF besides providing air flow density in grams per second also measures the incomimg air temperature.
The ecu expects to see no more than 120F at the MAF for those Arizona summers because of the Q already effective cold air intake. Now in 100F heat and stalled traffic the under hood temperature can easily get 180F-190F this would be the air intake temp at MAF with a popcharger!
The MAF reads the temp and the ecu goes into convulsions thinking the coolant system has failed but no high water temp reading so it reduces timing to try to lower temp.
The ecu was not programmed to expect this combo because it cannot occur in the real world without something being wrong other than at hot soak start up."
03-26-2001, 08:03 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 138
Ummmm..... Yeah....what he said!!!!
I like it when guys get on here who know what they're talking about! It makes me feel VERY stupid when I read stuff like that and it makes me happy that I chose Logistics as my major instead of automotive engineering! LOL! That's good info right there!
03-26-2001, 11:39 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 588
i wish i had money to do that, i have poor man's cai
http://www.geocities.com/nodoubt711/maxima2.html
http://www.geocities.com/nodoubt711/maxima2.html
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