Can anyone on this lovely site , ,tell me where exactly the ground kit wires connect to? C'mon and share the wealth cause I know I can save myself $60 and do it. I was tinkering around with some wires and grounded 2 points on the engine already and I swear it made a difference so I want to know the rest please.

 

Matt93se sells the kits and gives very good instructions. He has been on this (and several other) sites for a long time and helped so many different people with installs, new products and tons of advice. I've met and talked to him in person and he's a really good guy. Right now he's making aftermarket parts for us since noone else wants to market to 3rd gens (and he's giving really great deals compared to what his costs are). I'd suggest getting the kit from Matt and you'll get all the instructions you need.
Also, you can figure out where most of them go on your own with some research if you really want to save a couple dollars.

 

I feel you on the speech and everything but yeah, Im trying to save some money. This week I have hooked up the max and maxxed out my cash flow, check it out:
$275 2 front tires
$175 A/C fixed
$200 KYB struts
$175 rear parrallel link replaced
$75 Ball joint repair
$250 MVA hard tags
$100 inspection
So you see... Im broke now!

 

I understand trying to save money but I would just save up and buy from Matt. after you buy the correct soldering iron, wires, ends...etc. You will not be saving anything. If you already have the iron (not your typical iron will work) then you may save $15-$20. Not worth my time or effort for that little savings. I will be buying some from him one day.

 

Matt Blehm thanks for your time and dedication first of all. This is my point of view.

I understand saving up and buying from Matt but I want to save money.! I thought the the point of the Org was to look out for each other . You shouldnt feel obligated to do what goes against your better judgement. And trust me Matt will be fine without my $60. His rent will still get paid. Plus, He'll be getting enough of my dough next paycheck when I buy the stuff that I cant make myself (rstb, stage II lower tie bar, and sway bar links). I cant buy everything I want for my car, and I know everybody has been broke at one time or another. I really think this would be a great Org if people would look out at EVERY opportunity. I know I will. Its good though to see the dedication you have for your boy though.! I love love!! STILL

 

Yeah, we're looking out for Matt. He's been here a lot longer and contributed a lot more than you.

 

Yeah, I know.

 

The org is about sharing!
Well if you follow the neg terminal from the batt you'll find the one on the chasis and the one on the engine block. All you really have to do is LOOK and you find a bunch of others, on the intake manifold, one on the chasis next to the windsheild resovior, there's one on the tranny, on the firewall.....

I'd suggest you use gold plated connectors (that's all I use), www.partsexpress.com is a good source for relatively inexpensive ring terminals and such. If you piggy back any wires to their existing ground wire, then you should use a wire brush and clean off all the old oxide on both surfaces.

And you really don't need a soldering iron, if you use the good quality gold plated connectors that are ment to be crimpt. Crappier connectors that are lead or whatever should be soldered.

 

THATS WHAT IM TALKIN' BOUT BABY!!! THANKS ALOT. I was out again this morning and found a few more grounding points. Where is the one for the tranny? Thats the one I really want to find.

 

I think you missed the point of my post.

I am all for saving money and I do everything myself unless it isnt cost effective in my time. I would rather spend a measly 15-20 extra and have a kit already done with instructions instead of rounding up all the stuff, putting it the correct lengths so it looks good, putting it all together and then installing it. If it cost you 10-20 to make it then yeah its worth it because you save 40-50 but I think it will cost more.

As for not soldering them and just crimping them...well there are ways to do things and then there is the RIGHT way to do things...lead or gold...soldering is a much better way to make a much more solid connection period.

I was not pushing Matts product. He can do that himself...I was just giving my opinion of what would be best for you to do thats all. If I was going to do this myself to save money I would go out there and do it...I would research and look at my engine bay.

Also I am tired of this "the org is for sharing!" crap...especially in response to Craig or even me.

Craig has done more in "sharing" his knowledge than most on here and I have done a little "sharing" myself...to a much lesser degree than Craig.

I try to help any and all on here and even put my email address in my sig for people to email me. My way of sharing in this thread was to say that its not worth the time to save such a small amount of money.

Now all that being said...good luck in making your wiring kit. I honestly hope you get the stuff cheap enough to save a bunch of money.

 

Also I am tired of this "the org is for sharing!" crap...especially in response to Craig or even me.


Thats exactly why the Org is here isnt it? To share? Sh#t lets take a poll, but man I have a duffel bag FULL of wires of all gauges from previous installation jobs, so thats why I personally want to do it myself. I dont have to buy anything.

 

Okay........... I'm not knocking anyones position, but making a few ground connections isn't rocket science, cutting some wire to length and adding some quality connectors. Buy it or make it doesn't matter.

Sure I'm totally all for soldering, I know crimping sucks in part. But when you have a quality copper/gold plated connector, its best to have first a solid crimp, then if you want to further solder the connection. Solder is lead/tin/rosin, and is not as good of a conductor as gold plated copper crimped directly to quality copper wire.


Snowlinc, well on the VE tranny its behind some plastic towards the tire. Its actually a cheap push connector, and it was in pretty bad shape on mine, gobbes of oxide (thumbs down nissan on that one).

 

Well here is the deal. Matt makes stuff for us that no one else will (or won't until they can copy his work *cough* stillen *cough*.

I admit, I made my own kit. I had the wires/connectors and a big enough soldering iron. But I kept it on the down low and didn't go out and blantantly ask for instructions on how to copy someone else's stuff. Not only are is he losing a sale from yourself, he's losing a sale to everyone else that reads the post too.
I mean this isn't some big company. It's Matt. You know the dude that's probably given out thousands of dollars of free advice already (as I have and Craig, Eric and others). I mean something like a GW kit is going to get copied I guess. It's something that made up of fairly easy parts to get.

Actually if you were observant enough, you could have seen pics of at least 3/4 of the kit already.

I don't know. I guess you haven't tried to research, develope, spend money up front and then try to sell something. Much less have someone just outright ask for instructions on how to copy your work. It's something one doesn't understand until it happens to yourself. (it's happened to me already).

I guess at least have some tact when doing stuff like this. At least keep it on the downlow so you don't ruin future sales for Matt.

Make sense?

 

Did you read my whole post? I never said the org wasnt for sharing but dont like it thrown out at Craig or myself because we have done our share of helping on here.

You didnt state that you had a whole bag of stuff either. Like I said in my post (if you would have read it you would have seen it) that if it costs you 10-20 to make it then its worth it IMO.

Like I said in my earlier post (and I wasnt being sarcastic) I hope you do save a bunch of money and do a nice quality job...good luck.

 

not all solder is. I dont use lead/tin/rosin simply because it doesnt work as good as what I do use which is silver bearing.

Point is you can pull out a crimp most of the time unless he has a good LARGE crimpin tool (for the big wires) but if you solder them they are not coming out.

stuff works all kind of ways...I have a friend thats an installer and when installing alarms he just strips the wire seperates it and slides the new wire in there and tapes it up...no solder, no crimping nothing. To me that is not the right way to do it but it still works. Thats my point...I didnt mean to sound like soldering it was the only way...I know I did but...my OPINION is that it needs to be soldered for a good worry free connection.

I was just a little offended by the "org is for sharing comment".

Jeff said it better "I don't know. I guess you haven't tried to research, develope, spend money up front and then try to sell something. Much less have someone just outright ask for instructions on how to copy your work. It's something one doesn't understand until it happens to yourself. (it's happened to me already)."

 

lol, yeah I know where beating this with a bat a little.

Personally I use a bench vise on heavy guage wire connections, works very well when done properly.

I have a brother in law that was an installer for years and I cringed when I found out that he didn't use solder or even crimps. He pretty much strips back some of the wire then twists the new wire onto it and wire tapes it

I have to say that I upgraded my ground wires a few years ago, well before matt sold his kit and well before the 'hyper ground' kits were available. To me though it seemed that matt started advertising his kits after the 'hyper ground' kits were available. I'm not saying matt did anything wrong at all, since his kit is specifically for the 3rd gen and all. There is nothing to stop anyone else from selling a ground wire kit or anything else, so long as its not patented or whatever.

 

swowlinc - yes, this site is about sharing and is a good resource to look up info or ask questions. Yes, I have seen people take ideas from existing products and make their own version (ie Jeff making his own CAI recently), but the reason I was defending Matt is because he has done so much for 3rd gens (suspension especially) when no other vendors want to do anything for these old POS cars. Like awsm66 was saying, it's not like Matt is ripping anyone off - he doesn't make that much on any of the products he sells; he has a much lower profit percentage than any of the other vendors for 3rd gen parts that I've found. It would only save you a little money but cost you time to get all the parts and materials for the ground kit, but I didn't realize you already had the wires so maybe you could save a little then.

I'd definitely solder them though for a more reliable connection. (FWIW, I dont use solder with flux/rosin core, I use Pb63Sn37). Crimping will probably work fine, but is not as strong as solder.

There were other universal hyper ground kits out before Matt made this. His is specific to the 3rd gen and also comes with instructions. The connections may be pretty obvious to some people who have access to service manuals, know something about car wiring, or have done some research on the internet (like Jeff mentioned, you can pretty easily find out how to do it and even find pics around if you put a little time into it and dont expect it all to be handed to you), but for others, its much easier and more practical to buy the kit and instructions that are tailored to their particular car.

 

hahaha, thats the way Jeff does it too

whats Pb63Sn37?

 

WHEN I buy a kit, I'll buy it from Matt only because I respect his opinion and dedication to the board. I have gained more info here than I could ever afford to pay for.
We've all seen the kits other places, maybe even for less money. But, it's not enough difference to make me get it somewhere else. Anyway, just my opinion. I won't fault anyone for trying to save a buck.

 

Like Eric said, solder is usually made up of a lead and tin mix and sometimes a core.
The stuff I use is 63% Lead (Pb is the symbol for lead, stands for Plumbum or something like that - my latin is a little rusty ) and 37% Tin (Sn is the symbol for Tin, I forget what the latin word is)
That's the type of solder that my old job used and I like it better than others I've used. I think the stuff with rosin core is too messy.

 

ahhhhh lol. I thought it was some specific model/part number or something

 

Personally, I think it's a shame that we're even having this conversation. I just bought my kit from Matt, and I'm very satisfied with the quality and workmanship he put into them.

I for one am all into saving money and getting the most out of this car we all seem to share somewhat of a passion for, because I think we see it as a sort of underdog in comparison to all the other cars out there that get all the mods and attention. In any case, I based my decision on buying my ground wires from Matt because he gives detailed installation instructions, which none of the other generic wires out there offered. Let's just face it - 3rd Gen Maximas get no love at all when it comes to mods. If one amongst us has the wherewithall to make something to benefit us, then I think we should support their efforts. I think my purchase was well worth it, and I've personally pulled enough valuable advice from this site without having to undercut somebody like Matt who has done and continues to do so much for our little minority community of Maxima owners & enthusiasts. I just spent a grip of $$$ on necessary repairs too, but I'm not going to use that as an excuse to justify undermining someone who's just trying to do right by us 3rd Gen owners. There's just not enough of them to choose from, and Matt's a good guy. Just think on how you'd feel if you were in Matt's position...

Much luv to the Maxima fam, one and all!!!

peace2u

 

Everybody has made good points. I would like to say Im glad we had this convo. You know to me this Org is the one place that I feel we all belong, and Im new but I really dont like to see people get carried. Especially myself. And extra especially for a little money. But I digress, probably would cut down on Matts sales if the points were broadcast over the site. Next time i'll just pm him.LOL! Anyway my car is definately more spunky and the best part is I dont lose as much power as I used to when I turn on the air. Good enough for me. Crazy thing is I'll probably get the kit after this anyway. Peace bro's and sis's

 

i just used duct tape to do my ground kit. still going. . .

 

what do you mean???

 

Now I know what people were talking about when you described the grounding benefits as smoothly going through the rpm range. Its true. From 3300 and up the engine maintains consistant even acceleration until redline. Im impressed.