Hello,
Sorry, since I can not use the search I can't look for answers.
I think I need to change my timing belt because I have had the car since 45k miles on the odometer and now it's 115k. I don't want the belt to break when I'm in the middle of nowhere.

Is it easy to change the belt myself or should I have a professional do it?
Also, should I take it to a Nissan dealership or can any autoshop do it?

Thanks for your replies!

 

Assuming your engine is a VG, you have gone about double the recomended inteval for changing your timing belt (60,000 miles). I wouldn't recomend you do it yourself unless you have some experience since a mistake can destroy the engine on startup. A dealer could do this, but so could a decent mechanic. I would call around and check prices, but expect to pay atleast $500 for parts and labor. This should include changing the water pump as well, since its foolish not to replace it while you have those timing covers and belts off. If there thermostat needs to be replaced, its not a bad time for that either.

 

yeah I am having a timing issue. I am doing the belt myself but I am also putting in new JWT cams also, and I was trying to get all the marks to match up and the only thing that is diffeerent is that the rotor doesn't point at cylinder 1 it's like on 6. Is it ok? Has anyone had this problem B4?

 

Or could it be because of advanced timing?

 

I just did the timing belt job on 94 Max with 140K on it. At the same time I installed new water pump, thermostat, all seals and belts. I think you can do the job by yourself if you know the way around cars. It is time consuming but not extremely difficult job. One advantage of doing it yourself (besides saving money) is that you realy know what you did. If you don't have an honest mechanic, you really don't know what they have done. For example, this the second time the timing belt was changed on this car. The first time it was done at a dealer and I have all the records. It says they changed water pump and seals, but when I opened the area-water pump and seals were original. They also broke a side of a pulley. And that is at a dealer.
If you decide to do it yourself, shoot me an e-mail. I will walk you through the procedure.

 

I just did the timing belt job on 94 Max with 140K on it. At the same time I installed new water pump, thermostat, all seals and belts. I think you can do the job by yourself if you know the way around cars. It is time consuming but not extremely difficult job. One advantage of doing it yourself (besides saving money) is that you realy know what you did. If you don't have an honest mechanic, you really don't know what they have done. For example, this the second time the timing belt was changed on this car. The first time it was done at a dealer and I have all the records. It says they changed water pump and seals, but when I opened the area-water pump and seals were original. They also broke a side of a pulley. And that is at a dealer.
If you decide to do it yourself, shoot me an e-mail. I will walk you through the procedure. It is osetleo@pacbell.net

 

top dead center on the compression stroke should be =rotor at #1 cylnder right? so sounds like your on the exhuast stroke (# 6) but double check this w someone ive only done it once

 

If you're looking at the picture in the FSM to line it up, the distributor location is WRONG on it.

The best way to line the distributor up is to follow the FSM procedure, (put engine at TDC, then line up the marks on the distrib, then install in engine)
but once it's installed, it will NOT be the same location as shown in the FSM.

Now take a look at your distributor cap... look at the pin on the inside of it for cyl #1. If you were to put the cap back on the distrib at this time, the rotor should be pointing at it.

one easy way to do this is to get some white out and mark the bottom edge of the distrib cap with it (just below the pin), then transfer that mark to the outside edge so it's visible from the top, THEN put the cap on the distrib itself and mark it on the aluminum plate.... pull it back off and see if the rotor is pointing at it. If it is, you're done. (sorta).

get everything else back together and try to start the car. if the car doesn't want to start, the distributor could be a turn off. pull it out and give it one full turn (360 degrees), then put it back on. try firing up the car again. it should fire up now.