Oil in Coolant!
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
My 1990 Maxima has 70,000 miles on it. Shortly after the AC compressor was replaced at the dealership, oil showed up in the radiator and water was in the oil sump--big time!
Radiator looked like mayonnaise. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it just coincidence that the AC work was done just before the problem showed up?
Any ideas on how I can get a diagnosis without spending a fortune to tear the engine apart?
Appreciate any help. The car just sits in my driveway.
Les Goulden
Radiator looked like mayonnaise. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it just coincidence that the AC work was done just before the problem showed up?
Any ideas on how I can get a diagnosis without spending a fortune to tear the engine apart?
Appreciate any help. The car just sits in my driveway.
Les Goulden
#2
How much do you trust this dealership? Some shady places have been known to pout a little oil in the coolant or vice versa. I'd change the oil and flush the coolant. Then check it again. If it still has been contaminated then you might have a leaking head gasket or something else.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Another possibility, if you have an automatic, there could be a leak in the transmission cooler. Much cheaper than other possible causes. A blown head gasket would show up on a compression test ( about $60 I think), cause performance problem and cause overheating. Eventually oil could clog a radiator.
Hope that helps,
Tom
Hope that helps,
Tom
Originally posted by Les Goulden
My 1990 Maxima has 70,000 miles on it. Shortly after the AC compressor was replaced at the dealership, oil showed up in the radiator and water was in the oil sump--big time!
Radiator looked like mayonnaise. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it just coincidence that the AC work was done just before the problem showed up?
Any ideas on how I can get a diagnosis without spending a fortune to tear the engine apart?
Appreciate any help. The car just sits in my driveway.
Les Goulden
My 1990 Maxima has 70,000 miles on it. Shortly after the AC compressor was replaced at the dealership, oil showed up in the radiator and water was in the oil sump--big time!
Radiator looked like mayonnaise. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it just coincidence that the AC work was done just before the problem showed up?
Any ideas on how I can get a diagnosis without spending a fortune to tear the engine apart?
Appreciate any help. The car just sits in my driveway.
Les Goulden
#8
I drained the coolant a couple of times already. still i find traces of oil in the coolant. should i use a flushing liquid to rid of the oil? btw, the head gaskets were replaced recently. no overheating problems to date.
#10
You state water in oil? Is the oil milky looking off the dipstick or off the oil cap? If it is just on the oil cap, it could be moisture build up in the valve cover due to poor crank case ventilation.
I think that the problem you report is a coincidence to the a/c issue.
I think that the problem you report is a coincidence to the a/c issue.
#11
I recently replaced the entire cooling system with brand new parts+timing belt, seals and injectors and now there is oil in my water also. The car isn't running that great but it has been sitting for 2.5 years. There is a small chug at the exhaust pipe but no smoke and no water in the oil.
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
#12
I recently replaced the entire cooling system with brand new parts+timing belt, seals and injectors and now there is oil in my water also. The car isn't running that great but it has been sitting for 2.5 years. There is a small chug at the exhaust pipe but no smoke and no water in the oil.
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
If after 500km or so the situation didn't get worse, I would simply drain the cooling system and refill with proper fluid mixture.
#13
I recently replaced the entire cooling system with brand new parts+timing belt, seals and injectors and now there is oil in my water also. The car isn't running that great but it has been sitting for 2.5 years. There is a small chug at the exhaust pipe but no smoke and no water in the oil.
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
I didn't have a head problem before and I really can't afford another fix like I just did, is there a vacuum gallery or gasket issue I have messed up or am I out of luck in the maxima department?
#14
Ok so I have drained the system and refilled it, no oil came through to the coolant but instead now I have water spittle from my exhaust and a very rough running engine. I haven't driven it, only idled it in the driveway.
Turns out the thermo fan isn't working also so I tried hard wiring the air con fan but that doesn't work either. Also when I shut the car off you can hear something dripping and steaming off in the engine, about 1 drip every 10 seconds. When the car runs the overflow reservoir bubbles about once every 5 seconds. I think I have a tiny fissure in my head gasket or head, almost 100% certain. I have a mate who is a mechanic coming to look at it tonight, hopefully he tells me otherwise but I don't think my optimism will pay off this time.
I love my maxima but I'm not spending another $2500 on it, I think my missus will slaughter me.
Turns out the thermo fan isn't working also so I tried hard wiring the air con fan but that doesn't work either. Also when I shut the car off you can hear something dripping and steaming off in the engine, about 1 drip every 10 seconds. When the car runs the overflow reservoir bubbles about once every 5 seconds. I think I have a tiny fissure in my head gasket or head, almost 100% certain. I have a mate who is a mechanic coming to look at it tonight, hopefully he tells me otherwise but I don't think my optimism will pay off this time.
I love my maxima but I'm not spending another $2500 on it, I think my missus will slaughter me.
#15
Ok so I have drained the system and refilled it, no oil came through to the coolant but instead now I have water spittle from my exhaust and a very rough running engine. I haven't driven it, only idled it in the driveway.
Turns out the thermo fan isn't working also so I tried hard wiring the air con fan but that doesn't work either. Also when I shut the car off you can hear something dripping and steaming off in the engine, about 1 drip every 10 seconds. When the car runs the overflow reservoir bubbles about once every 5 seconds. I think I have a tiny fissure in my head gasket or head, almost 100% certain. I have a mate who is a mechanic coming to look at it tonight, hopefully he tells me otherwise but I don't think my optimism will pay off this time.
I love my maxima but I'm not spending another $2500 on it, I think my missus will slaughter me.
Turns out the thermo fan isn't working also so I tried hard wiring the air con fan but that doesn't work either. Also when I shut the car off you can hear something dripping and steaming off in the engine, about 1 drip every 10 seconds. When the car runs the overflow reservoir bubbles about once every 5 seconds. I think I have a tiny fissure in my head gasket or head, almost 100% certain. I have a mate who is a mechanic coming to look at it tonight, hopefully he tells me otherwise but I don't think my optimism will pay off this time.
I love my maxima but I'm not spending another $2500 on it, I think my missus will slaughter me.
#17
Alright so I have pretty much done everything now, I drained and refilled coolant 3 times and the sludge has gone, I also put Bars stop leak through the system (before I even read the post, must be psychic) and the condensation has stopped at the back end, no more sludge in the coolant. I suspect the coolant sludge may have just been old coolant sitting in the block. The rough running I narrowed down to 2 things, 1 was a bolt not properly fastened on the throttle body chamber causing an air leak and the other is my A.A.C valve and air cut valve, I discovered coolant no longer flows there due to rusty clogged pipes within both the air cut valve and the throttle body chamber.
Once I have replaced the air cut valve, all logic says that it will start registering the coolant temp thus getting rid of the warm idle roughness (car idles smoothly now when cold).
Upon ripping all this apart however, I have another (hopefully final) question and that is on how to unblock the air relief plug at the top of the manifold which is full of rust. I have drilled out the bulk but a stoppage remains at the base of the pipe which I can only imagine is an L shape to the 2 pipes underneath it. Currently I am sitting CLR in the hole overnight to see if that unclogs it, but if that doesn't work:
A: is there a way to unclog it short of purchasing a new manifold
B: can i fill the system and get the air out another way? Bearing in mind the previous owner did not fill the system correctly leaving huge pockets of air inside that caused massive rust and cooling problems hence the reason I embarked on what has turned out to be my most expensive Maxima venture to date (This is my third one).
I appreciate its getting a little off the original topic but any help would be gladly appreciated, I am looking forward to the day I can drive my baby again.
Once I have replaced the air cut valve, all logic says that it will start registering the coolant temp thus getting rid of the warm idle roughness (car idles smoothly now when cold).
Upon ripping all this apart however, I have another (hopefully final) question and that is on how to unblock the air relief plug at the top of the manifold which is full of rust. I have drilled out the bulk but a stoppage remains at the base of the pipe which I can only imagine is an L shape to the 2 pipes underneath it. Currently I am sitting CLR in the hole overnight to see if that unclogs it, but if that doesn't work:
A: is there a way to unclog it short of purchasing a new manifold
B: can i fill the system and get the air out another way? Bearing in mind the previous owner did not fill the system correctly leaving huge pockets of air inside that caused massive rust and cooling problems hence the reason I embarked on what has turned out to be my most expensive Maxima venture to date (This is my third one).
I appreciate its getting a little off the original topic but any help would be gladly appreciated, I am looking forward to the day I can drive my baby again.
#18
Alright so I have pretty much done everything now, I drained and refilled coolant 3 times and the sludge has gone, I also put Bars stop leak through the system (before I even read the post, must be psychic) and the condensation has stopped at the back end, no more sludge in the coolant. I suspect the coolant sludge may have just been old coolant sitting in the block. The rough running I narrowed down to 2 things, 1 was a bolt not properly fastened on the throttle body chamber causing an air leak and the other is my A.A.C valve and air cut valve, I discovered coolant no longer flows there due to rusty clogged pipes within both the air cut valve and the throttle body chamber.
Once I have replaced the air cut valve, all logic says that it will start registering the coolant temp thus getting rid of the warm idle roughness (car idles smoothly now when cold).
Upon ripping all this apart however, I have another (hopefully final) question and that is on how to unblock the air relief plug at the top of the manifold which is full of rust. I have drilled out the bulk but a stoppage remains at the base of the pipe which I can only imagine is an L shape to the 2 pipes underneath it. Currently I am sitting CLR in the hole overnight to see if that unclogs it, but if that doesn't work:
A: is there a way to unclog it short of purchasing a new manifold
B: can i fill the system and get the air out another way? Bearing in mind the previous owner did not fill the system correctly leaving huge pockets of air inside that caused massive rust and cooling problems hence the reason I embarked on what has turned out to be my most expensive Maxima venture to date (This is my third one).
I appreciate its getting a little off the original topic but any help would be gladly appreciated, I am looking forward to the day I can drive my baby again.
Once I have replaced the air cut valve, all logic says that it will start registering the coolant temp thus getting rid of the warm idle roughness (car idles smoothly now when cold).
Upon ripping all this apart however, I have another (hopefully final) question and that is on how to unblock the air relief plug at the top of the manifold which is full of rust. I have drilled out the bulk but a stoppage remains at the base of the pipe which I can only imagine is an L shape to the 2 pipes underneath it. Currently I am sitting CLR in the hole overnight to see if that unclogs it, but if that doesn't work:
A: is there a way to unclog it short of purchasing a new manifold
B: can i fill the system and get the air out another way? Bearing in mind the previous owner did not fill the system correctly leaving huge pockets of air inside that caused massive rust and cooling problems hence the reason I embarked on what has turned out to be my most expensive Maxima venture to date (This is my third one).
I appreciate its getting a little off the original topic but any help would be gladly appreciated, I am looking forward to the day I can drive my baby again.
#19
FINALLY back in the drivers seat of my AS BRAND NEW Nissan Maxima. Thanks to everyone for your help and if anybody is wondering, stale fuel contributed mostly to rough running, everything else was textbook tune-up once I had run that out and refilled with Shell V-Power (it really does love your engine!).
By textbook I mean workshop manual ...
By textbook I mean workshop manual ...
#20
FINALLY back in the drivers seat of my AS BRAND NEW Nissan Maxima. Thanks to everyone for your help and if anybody is wondering, stale fuel contributed mostly to rough running, everything else was textbook tune-up once I had run that out and refilled with Shell V-Power (it really does love your engine!).
By textbook I mean workshop manual ...
By textbook I mean workshop manual ...
#22
Yeah I wouldn't use it on anything worth money but I have used it on 300 dollar rides and had good results(meaning engine has been goo for years now). Really though I agree with you 100%, it can clog your system up and Ive heard of that happening to people who pour a whole big bottle of Bars in and never drain/fill it with new coolant mixture a week later.
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