Another Turbo VE to the ranks
#81
Originally Posted by MrGone
orrrr I could just bring my spare wiring harness and ECU and make it a heck of a lot easier on myself
when I arrive, do i get to drive?
when I arrive, do i get to drive?
alright, enough OT, save that for IM.
#83
does the resistor mod take place of the ks or is wired in with the ks?
if it take its place just do the resistor mod very close to the ecu and run a new wire from the resistor to the ground or wherever its supposed to go. this will totally bypass the bad wires if they are indeed bad. also, if/when you do that be sure to reset the ecu before you attempt starting it or anything just to be on the safe side.
if it take its place just do the resistor mod very close to the ecu and run a new wire from the resistor to the ground or wherever its supposed to go. this will totally bypass the bad wires if they are indeed bad. also, if/when you do that be sure to reset the ecu before you attempt starting it or anything just to be on the safe side.
#84
I wonder what codes the VE ECU is flashing. Has he checked them when he was having this problem before? If the KS is fully dead or is not being recognized by the ECU, you will get a KS code.
#86
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I wonder what codes the VE ECU is flashing. Has he checked them when he was having this problem before? If the KS is fully dead or is not being recognized by the ECU, you will get a KS code.
Not trying to get defensive guys, but enough of the telling me to put in the stock maf and cut the fuel pressure, cause this was happening way before i ever put in the 370's and the z maf.
maximase86, no prob man, any insite is def appreciated. I only get upset when people try telling me to do something I clearly already stated I have, or think that my current setup is the culprit, when I have CLEARLY stated isnt the problem.
At this point, I think my only option is to get a consult, or go to a dealership to solve the problem. I have tried finding someone with a consult/conzult, but noone in the tt.net forum or here seems to have one or is willing to help me out.
#87
when i suggested lowering idle fuel pressure i ment to fix the rich condition your seeing at idle not to fix the slugishness problem
if all else fails id just replace the whole engine harness in cluding the kn and rear injector sub harnesses. i bet that causes alot more strange random problems than people think
if all else fails id just replace the whole engine harness in cluding the kn and rear injector sub harnesses. i bet that causes alot more strange random problems than people think
#88
Originally Posted by Julio
Not trying to get defensive guys, but enough of the telling me to put in the stock maf and cut the fuel pressure, cause this was happening way before i ever put in the 370's and the z maf.
#90
Hey nice job I haven’t been on the board for a while (going through a ruff divorce) but word travels quickly, congratulations. I would love to come check out/help out once I get my life back on track. My turbo system is constantly evolving, it would nice to share Ideas and help each other with tuning. I know how all the work its takes to fabricate you own kit and finish the project. I applaud you
#91
Originally Posted by 4signs
Hey nice job I haven’t been on the board for a while (going through a ruff divorce) but word travels quickly, congratulations. I would love to come check out/help out once I get my life back on track. My turbo system is constantly evolving, it would nice to share Ideas and help each other with tuning. I know how all the work its takes to fabricate you own kit and finish the project. I applaud you
*edit* Sorry, I was thinking of MaXtUneD with the crappy pics. You had some good pics. But I am curious what turbo you're using. Thanks.
#92
Originally Posted by 4signs
Hey nice job I haven’t been on the board for a while (going through a ruff divorce) but word travels quickly, congratulations. I would love to come check out/help out once I get my life back on track. My turbo system is constantly evolving, it would nice to share Ideas and help each other with tuning. I know how all the work its takes to fabricate you own kit and finish the project. I applaud you
Yea man, we should chat about stuff an such. I have a couple of ideas too, but who doesnt. We are pretty close. Maybe you could come and meet up one night (friday or saturday), cause we chill at wendies in warwick sometimes (lots of car peeps). Its right off of 95, so it isnt too bad.
Spazz, I have a new oxy sensor.
#94
Originally Posted by Ninty-two-se
Alot of RI maximas have Turbos... what the heck? My car came from Warwick.. where the heck is my turbo?
we do have a supercharged 5th gen around here though!
#96
Originally Posted by rosamax
So have you figured out the problem with your car yet Julio? I'm anxious to see how this turns out.
Well, I have been trying to fix this problem for over a year now, trying all sorts of different things from different ecu's, to a different knock sensor, to resistor mods at the harness, and at the ecu, with no success. So there doesnt seem to be an end in site, but I am gonna try it at the ecu again, and see how it goes. I would be so excited if the power did come back, cause not only would i get all that power back, but now i have a turbo and rebuilt vtc's. I can only imagine.
LoL. I got some major torque steer today though. I banged 2nd gear, and it started screaching tire bad, jerking from left to right. It was badass.
#97
Knock sensor update
Just put a resistor back in. I put the 470k ohm resistor at the ecu, instead of the harness. I checked codes, and got code 55, but it still runs like crap even after i reset the ecu. I just disconnected the battery to see if that would make a difference for any reason. I will try it in the morning again, but i am not getting my hopes up. Only trying this because I have I read an article in Turbo where a turbo supra was putting down bad dyno numbers, so the dyno guy at the tunning shop pulled a couple EFI fuses for 10-15 minutes, and it made 30 more hp and 50 more ft lbs.
#99
i know that my vg when running real rich on the low end wouldn't rev very well below 3500 or so... but since this happened before the swap its got to be something other than that. how's compression and all that fun stuff? timing, condition of plugs and wires and such, etc. etc.
#101
Originally Posted by subs1000w
if the fuels fine its gota be timing related
#102
damn ...bro u need to hook me up, as much as i like my 3rd gen, i`ll do anything for turbo, been waiting too long for that but finaly....Just let me know bro....give me the cost and the process i`ll be more then happy....just check one of my messengers or e-mail.......PLEASE..THANKS..AGAIN NICE RIDE
#103
Originally Posted by Julio
Its too big of a difference to be just one or the other. What else in the ecu programming pulls timing and dumps fuel below 3500 rpms, and just goes away?? Nothing I can think of.
Just tried it again after having the battery disconnected all night. No difference, but madmax024 may be able to hook it up for me with a consult appointment at a nissan dealership around here. That would be damn nice to see.
#104
Have no idea why it gets better at 3500 rpm. Maybe the engine just get going fast enough to mask it. Anyway, how is the coolant temp sensor? If it's fubar, it might tell the ecu to go into cold start mode(rich). Take it out and clean it. Also clean the connector. Worth a shot.
#105
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Have no idea why it gets better at 3500 rpm. Maybe the engine just get going fast enough to mask it. Anyway, how is the coolant temp sensor? If it's fubar, it might tell the ecu to go into cold start mode(rich). Take it out and clean it. Also clean the connector. Worth a shot.
I have tried 2 different coolant temp sensors, both of which were cleaned, so were the terminals to the harness, and the resistance checked out ok.
Lol, I have tried almost everything to fix it, except the one thing that will.
#106
So a wiring harness is next on the list? From my 2 previous engine swaps, it shouldn't be that bad. Unhooking everything from the engine is fairly easy. ie.. 1.5 hours maybe. Most of the engine stuff is seperate from the other electricals (I think). If there is a big main plug behind the firewall, you might be able to do this in one day at most. But try to get a 5-sp harness and try to get one from the same year just in case.
#108
the only time i've ever had trouble with an engine in the lower rpm's and not on the upper was on an old L28 in a 280Z. the valve timing needed adjusted very badly. for some reason it would die below 3500-4000 rpm but above that the thing revved extremely well and sounded good.
#109
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
So a wiring harness is next on the list? From my 2 previous engine swaps, it shouldn't be that bad. Unhooking everything from the engine is fairly easy. ie.. 1.5 hours maybe. Most of the engine stuff is seperate from the other electricals (I think). If there is a big main plug behind the firewall, you might be able to do this in one day at most. But try to get a 5-sp harness and try to get one from the same year just in case.
#110
I just thought of another thing to try. Have you tried testing KS resistance at the ECU? It would mean you would have to find which pins are for the KS...FSM should have that? Blah, I get back from Alaska...and here I am racking my brain again!
S
S
#111
Originally Posted by maximase86
I just thought of another thing to try. Have you tried testing KS resistance at the ECU? It would mean you would have to find which pins are for the KS...FSM should have that? Blah, I get back from Alaska...and here I am racking my brain again!
S
S
Just put a resistor back in. I put the 470k ohm resistor at the ecu, instead of the harness. I checked codes, and got code 55, but it still runs like crap even after i reset the ecu. I just disconnected the battery to see if that would make a difference for any reason. I will try it in the morning again, but i am not getting my hopes up. Only trying this because I have I read an article in Turbo where a turbo supra was putting down bad dyno numbers, so the dyno guy at the tunning shop pulled a couple EFI fuses for 10-15 minutes, and it made 30 more hp and 50 more ft lbs.
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