Hey, recently I've noticed that when I make a right turn from a stop and accelerate while making the turn, there is this tapping sound that seems to be coming from the right front wheel. It's pretty loud and it's like these quick equally spaced tapping noises depending on how fast I accelerate during the turn.

It might do it a tiny bit during left turns too but it's mostly noticeable on right turns.

So what do you think? I just had the lower ball joint for the right wheel replaced like 2 months ago and the wheel feels nice and tight. Perhaps the upper one needs replacing? Tomorrow I'm gonna jack the car up and wiggle the wheel to see if it is loose.

Also, the CV boot has been torn forever now, could that have something to do with it?

Thanks for any help!

 

umm yes..you're a proud owner of a new rebuilt/reman axle.

 

hmm so how much are we talking here?

Is it possible to get one from Pep Boys/Autozone rather than the dealer?

And is it a DIY job?

 

Autozone axle is about $60 with exchange...give or take a few bucks. You can do it yourself and save some cash, but you'll also need the seals. I've read it's best to get the seals from the dealer, but I can't vouch for that personally.

 

DIY depends on your skill.

you can get a rebuilt/reman from the parts store no prob.

if you never replaced the axles before then it's a good idea to replace the axle seals.

 

Why replace the whole axle when you can just replace the outer CV joint?
Yes to DIY - you'll need the right size socket (28mm, 32mm or larger?) and a big torque bar to remove the hub-nut. Plus you'll have to lock the brakes somehow - either get someone to stand on the pedal or use a 2ft piece of wood jammed between the brake pedal and the drivers seat (use a rattle gun if you've got one - much easier!).
Remove the 2 strut bolts that hold the strut to the hub carrier - make sure you mark their positions first. Ease out the cv joint with the axle & after removing the torn cv boot, knock the cv joint off the axle. Take care that the axle doesn't get pulled out from the tranny - I usually lock the axle to a suspension arm with big vise-grips.
The new cv joint will just tap on although you may have to replace the locking clip. Don't forget to put the new boot on the axle before the cv joint! Once done, pack the joint & boot with grease (the cv joint kit should have everything you need) & lock the boot to the joint. Assemble.

If you have a torn cv boot, replace asap & you won't have to replace the joint.

Good luck

 

36mm


also, check out the FAQS, there is a writeup for this on 4dsc

 

he's probably past the part of boot replacement. it's clicking and he knew about the torn boot for some time. dirt and sand has probably worked itself in there. if you loosen the strut tower bolts you can bend the strut/hub assembly out enough to get the axle out.

i remember pricing out boot prices..and after everything it's about 20 less than the entire axle.

 

Yeah - the boot comment was for general consumption.

Good to know about just loosening the strut bolts - most Nissans you gotta remove them to get enough room to pull the joint thru the hub.

Wish we could replace complete axles for a few more dollars than a cv joint kit. Most kits are NZ$150+ although you can get a complete second hand axle for NZ$80 - 100.
I prefer to just change the cv joint - esp if the tranny fluid was changed less than 9 months previously... Still, no harm in changing the fluid again so either way works good

 

Yes it definetly is the CV boot, because i had the same problem, i replaced them myself, but becareful, when you take the front axel out, i believe it was transmission fluid, goes all over the place and is hot.