How many of you have replaced your exhaust studs?
04-01-2001, 12:14 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 615
I noticed a couple days ago I have a broken one on the rear of my VE engine, it's on the bottom closest to the passenger's side (near the PS pump).
Think it would be hard to get a drill up there, with a 90 degree fitting, drill it out, then use a screw extractor to get it out? Would I have to remove the manifold? I've already ordered new studs, nuts and washers from Courtesy. Hopefully I can just replace the rest one by one.
Sooner or later I'll be able to spend money on mods and not getting it back up to stock condition
Think it would be hard to get a drill up there, with a 90 degree fitting, drill it out, then use a screw extractor to get it out? Would I have to remove the manifold? I've already ordered new studs, nuts and washers from Courtesy. Hopefully I can just replace the rest one by one.
Sooner or later I'll be able to spend money on mods and not getting it back up to stock condition
04-01-2001, 01:08 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 159
Exhaust studs
Hi Ken:
I have the same identical car and the exact same stud broken. I have done my fronts, and found the 90 degree attachment to not work very well (too bulky). In the rear you will have even less space. I bought a small 90 degree air drill which gave me the right clearance.
On the front I had one broken (near the compressor) and had trouble drilling it out straight.
A trick I read about that would have been helpful is to create a guide out of an old stud so that you start drilling on center (most studs break inside the head, so the guide will fit there). On the other Maxima board, DanNY and his dad came up with the best solution yet, which was a machine shop made template that not only centered the drill, but also gave it the correct angle, and made the drilling point-and-go. They managed to drill out to the threads without touching them.
I could emulate that with wood, using the studs as liners so it might be makeable without a machine shop.
I found the other studs all to come out easy (70K Texas miles was better that 100K+ Northern miles) My studs were rusted where exposed, but looked like new in the middle and on the threads, where it counts.
Be CAREFUL using an easy out. I have heard of a number of people breaking them in the stud (flush). The studs are soft, and easy to drill out, not so for an easy out). I broke mine, but I was lucky, it broke on the tool square so I still had something to grab on to.
Go to the parts store and get regular nuts that fit on your manifold studs and down pipe studs (I replaced those too while at it). Using the new nuts with the nuts that you remove will make it easy to get the studs out and in (the unbroken ones that is) If you remove the other (intact) studs first, you will get a feel for how much torque will get them loose (it is not much) This will be a guide to how much force to use on your easy out.
Someone who did the rear on a car like ours told me that the manifold will not clear the axle and cross braces. If this turns out the same on all cars (I haven't done my rears yet to confirm) it will be trickier to check the manifold for flatness and to clean of the old gasket, but it will be just part of the job.
I made the mistake on the front to dill by "touch" as I could not properly see the stud. MISTAKE, as I had two holes into the threads. I am definitely exploring the template option this time, I think it will be time well spent. But even without a template, be sure that you can see what you are doing so that your first hole is properly centered.
While your car is on ramps an easy fix is to put Courtesy Urethane bushings on the stabilizer bar, and replace the body bushing for same (no Urethane part readily available) You will be surprised how much the bushing have yielded over time.
My fronts took three weekends, mainly due to not having the right tools. I am now hoping for one weekend which I think is realistic with a template in hand), but plan on two.
Good luck,
John
PS. What was the dielectric grease you used on the engine temp sensor fix?
I have the same identical car and the exact same stud broken. I have done my fronts, and found the 90 degree attachment to not work very well (too bulky). In the rear you will have even less space. I bought a small 90 degree air drill which gave me the right clearance.
On the front I had one broken (near the compressor) and had trouble drilling it out straight.
A trick I read about that would have been helpful is to create a guide out of an old stud so that you start drilling on center (most studs break inside the head, so the guide will fit there). On the other Maxima board, DanNY and his dad came up with the best solution yet, which was a machine shop made template that not only centered the drill, but also gave it the correct angle, and made the drilling point-and-go. They managed to drill out to the threads without touching them.
I could emulate that with wood, using the studs as liners so it might be makeable without a machine shop.
I found the other studs all to come out easy (70K Texas miles was better that 100K+ Northern miles) My studs were rusted where exposed, but looked like new in the middle and on the threads, where it counts.
Be CAREFUL using an easy out. I have heard of a number of people breaking them in the stud (flush). The studs are soft, and easy to drill out, not so for an easy out). I broke mine, but I was lucky, it broke on the tool square so I still had something to grab on to.
Go to the parts store and get regular nuts that fit on your manifold studs and down pipe studs (I replaced those too while at it). Using the new nuts with the nuts that you remove will make it easy to get the studs out and in (the unbroken ones that is) If you remove the other (intact) studs first, you will get a feel for how much torque will get them loose (it is not much) This will be a guide to how much force to use on your easy out.
Someone who did the rear on a car like ours told me that the manifold will not clear the axle and cross braces. If this turns out the same on all cars (I haven't done my rears yet to confirm) it will be trickier to check the manifold for flatness and to clean of the old gasket, but it will be just part of the job.
I made the mistake on the front to dill by "touch" as I could not properly see the stud. MISTAKE, as I had two holes into the threads. I am definitely exploring the template option this time, I think it will be time well spent. But even without a template, be sure that you can see what you are doing so that your first hole is properly centered.
While your car is on ramps an easy fix is to put Courtesy Urethane bushings on the stabilizer bar, and replace the body bushing for same (no Urethane part readily available) You will be surprised how much the bushing have yielded over time.
My fronts took three weekends, mainly due to not having the right tools. I am now hoping for one weekend which I think is realistic with a template in hand), but plan on two.
Good luck,
John
PS. What was the dielectric grease you used on the engine temp sensor fix?
04-01-2001, 01:30 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 615
Dielectric grease
Actually, I didn't use it on the Max coolant sensor and it works fine. I have used it on my old Celica though, I think it helps make a better connection.
I'll definitely be researching this template option. We should make a group template and ship it back and forth to people who need to drill out their studs
I'll definitely be researching this template option. We should make a group template and ship it back and forth to people who need to drill out their studs
04-01-2001, 01:42 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,020
I did the studs with the engine out of the car so I suppose I don't count, but I would recommend that you centerpunch and drill a #30 hole about 1/4 deep in the center of the stud and use an easy-out to unscrew the broken stud. Don't try to drill the whole stud out, there is too much chance of drilling into your head. Talk to Jeff92SE about drilling into the head replacing exhaust studs......
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