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Brake Pad Problem

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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:06 AM
  #1  
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Brake Pad Problem

I got a new set of double slotted/single drilled zinc coated rotors from a fellow org. member and bought some new Bendix OEM pads to go with them and some Goodridge stainless steel brake lines. I am now noticing the car does stop as quickly as it did before I got these rotors. Is it the material of the pads or could it be the rotors itself. The car stops but if I go fast and hit the brakes it doesn't slow down as quickly as it did when I had the regular rotors and pads on. Would I benefit more if I put on MetalMasters or Hawk HP pads. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:09 AM
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Could be your pads, I'm not sure why a performance-oriented rotor would/could cause it to slow the braking process...some other brake guys will tune in in a second.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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when it's drilled/slotted there's less rotor mass. when you're stopping at high speeds it raises the temp big time. it probably raises the temp past the efficient point of your pads. if you're going to run those rotors i highly recommend a beefier pad.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:17 AM
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Anybody have a recommended pad of choice? I know Metal Masters are good but does anyone have one they prefer? I really don't mind brake dust because my rims are black anyway.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by KRMaxima21
Anybody have a recommended pad of choice? I know Metal Masters are good but does anyone have one they prefer? I really don't mind brake dust because my rims are black anyway.

metal masters are good.

personal fav - porterfields.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:51 AM
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did you bleed your brakes after switching to the stainless lines?
because if you didn't do that, that's likely the problem.

try hawk hps pads. they're pricey but are highly spoken for.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:07 AM
  #7  
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Everything was bled completely. I noticed that if I let the car sit for hours and then drive it, the pedals goes down further and it takes a little bit more pressure on it to stop. Then after about 15 minutes of stop and go it kinda goes back to a normal pedal feel. I'm thinking being that they are OEM they're really not "biting" the rotor like they are supposed to.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:12 AM
  #8  
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I suggest re-bleeding the brake lines again to make sure before going to the expense of different pads. Just my 2 cents.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:32 AM
  #9  
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I've bled them 2 and have had them bled by a brake shop just to make sure I didn't mess them up myself. I think this time I'm going to let Jeff from Max Tuning do it for me.
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KRMaxima21
Everything was bled completely. I noticed that if I let the car sit for hours and then drive it, the pedals goes down further and it takes a little bit more pressure on it to stop. Then after about 15 minutes of stop and go it kinda goes back to a normal pedal feel. I'm thinking being that they are OEM they're really not "biting" the rotor like they are supposed to.
hmmm
it sounded as if you had air in your brake lines.
did you free up and re-lube the slider pins?
is the brake booster hose connected to the upper intake plenum?
have you checked to see if you're leaking brake fluid anywhere?
Old Jul 7, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #11  
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have someone check and see if your booster is holding vaccum
Old Jul 10, 2004 | 06:05 AM
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I'd get EBC pads. I just got them with some PowerSlot rotors and they bite great!!
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