Leaking oil between engine/trans...
#1
Leaking oil between engine/trans...
I have oil leaking out of the weep hole where the trans bolts to the engine. Pretty sure it is engine oil cause I've had to add oil once between ghanges. I checked everything I can get to, and nothing.
I'm assuming it is the rear seal.
Has anyone else had this problem?
It is a '93 gxe with 3.4, woman driven everyday. So, no I haven't been beating on it. Has 112k miles if it matters.
About how much will this be price wise?
Thanks everyone, James L.
I'm assuming it is the rear seal.
Has anyone else had this problem?
It is a '93 gxe with 3.4, woman driven everyday. So, no I haven't been beating on it. Has 112k miles if it matters.
About how much will this be price wise?
Thanks everyone, James L.
#2
first of all it doesnt have a 3.4
it has a VG30E which is a 3.0L
probobly the rear main seal but could also be ATF although you should be able to tell which it is
have you checked the trans fluid to make sure its not low
it has a VG30E which is a 3.0L
probobly the rear main seal but could also be ATF although you should be able to tell which it is
have you checked the trans fluid to make sure its not low
#3
Another common area for a oil leak is the oil pan seal retainers (see attach pic)
You may want to drop the inspection cover plate to take a closer look see and determine if it's the oil pan retainers or rear main seal. As you know it would totally suck if you go thru all that labor to change the rear main seal and the sucker still leaks. I'm the the process of changing my retainers for that reason.
![](http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/358000-358999/358672_295_full.jpg)
MIKE
You may want to drop the inspection cover plate to take a closer look see and determine if it's the oil pan retainers or rear main seal. As you know it would totally suck if you go thru all that labor to change the rear main seal and the sucker still leaks. I'm the the process of changing my retainers for that reason.
![](http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/358000-358999/358672_295_full.jpg)
MIKE
#4
Originally Posted by subs1000w
first of all it doesnt have a 3.4
it has a VG30E which is a 3.0L
probobly the rear main seal but could also be ATF although you should be able to tell which it is
have you checked the trans fluid to make sure its not low
it has a VG30E which is a 3.0L
probobly the rear main seal but could also be ATF although you should be able to tell which it is
have you checked the trans fluid to make sure its not low
#6
Hey subs1000w, you're correct. It is a 3.0 like you said. I was think of another car while I was typing that.
The trans fluid is full. If I run the car for a little while and shut it off, lay under it, I can actually see the oil dripping out of the weep hole. I wiped it off several times to make sure that it is coming from the hole and down the sides and dripping.
I've just about concluded that it is the rear seal. I'll take it to a trans shop just down the road and let them look. I think I can trust this man.
Oh, almost forgot. My nickname doesn't describe any hybrid. It's my nickname that I use on the Turbo Buick Boards. I have 2 Grand National, one to race and one to drive.
Thanks again guys, James L.
The trans fluid is full. If I run the car for a little while and shut it off, lay under it, I can actually see the oil dripping out of the weep hole. I wiped it off several times to make sure that it is coming from the hole and down the sides and dripping.
I've just about concluded that it is the rear seal. I'll take it to a trans shop just down the road and let them look. I think I can trust this man.
Oh, almost forgot. My nickname doesn't describe any hybrid. It's my nickname that I use on the Turbo Buick Boards. I have 2 Grand National, one to race and one to drive.
Thanks again guys, James L.
#7
Okay, well if you own two GNX, then you should be used to leaking oil!
If it's not the rear main seal, then it's most likely the lip seal around the oil pan. you should change both, but it will require pulling the tranny to get to either..
I've found it's easiest to just pull the rear main seal bracket off the back of the engine block and change the lip seal and the rear main seal at the same time. just clean it up well right around the oil pan, goop some RTV silicone around the lip seal and it will never leak again. oil pan will be a bit more fun to get off, but it's not like you ever have to pull the pan on these engines.![ThumbsUp](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
total time? If you're a decent DIY, plan 6-8 hours for your first time. the auto tranny is a bit of a pain to remove, but it's nothing horrible. last time I pulled a tranny on a Maxima (few months ago), I had the thing out in an hour.. first time it'll take you four..
![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
If it's not the rear main seal, then it's most likely the lip seal around the oil pan. you should change both, but it will require pulling the tranny to get to either..
I've found it's easiest to just pull the rear main seal bracket off the back of the engine block and change the lip seal and the rear main seal at the same time. just clean it up well right around the oil pan, goop some RTV silicone around the lip seal and it will never leak again. oil pan will be a bit more fun to get off, but it's not like you ever have to pull the pan on these engines.
![ThumbsUp](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
total time? If you're a decent DIY, plan 6-8 hours for your first time. the auto tranny is a bit of a pain to remove, but it's nothing horrible. last time I pulled a tranny on a Maxima (few months ago), I had the thing out in an hour.. first time it'll take you four..
#8
Hey Matt, I'm just a poor boy. I own 2 GNs not GNXs. I would be happy with one GNX but wife won't let go of 27k for a 17 year old car.
My race GN only leaked oil when I became a member of the "Drove over the Crank" club last fall
.
Something about working on a FWD car kinda scares me so I think I'll take it to the shop and get a second opinion and probally let him change out the rear seal and lip seal.
After 112k miles, this is the first problem it has every gave me, so I guess I cant complain.
Thanks, James L.
My race GN only leaked oil when I became a member of the "Drove over the Crank" club last fall
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Something about working on a FWD car kinda scares me so I think I'll take it to the shop and get a second opinion and probally let him change out the rear seal and lip seal.
After 112k miles, this is the first problem it has every gave me, so I guess I cant complain.
Thanks, James L.
#9
Bah.. working on a FWD is just as easy as a RWD. only difference is the engine is turned sideways. the maxima is EXTREMELY easy to work on. If you can change a clutch or replace a rear main seal on a GN, then you can do this yourself.
being a po' boy, I think your wallet will agree with me. expect to pay $5-600 easy for the job if you take it to a shop, or you can spend one day in the driveway and do it yourself.
being a po' boy, I think your wallet will agree with me. expect to pay $5-600 easy for the job if you take it to a shop, or you can spend one day in the driveway and do it yourself.
#10
i dont think any GN's came with a manual trans so hes probobly never changed a clutch before
better rephrase that to changing a tourque converter
and like matt said be prepared to bend over if you take it to a shop
a question to V8 eater what doe syour RACE GN run in the 1/4
better rephrase that to changing a tourque converter
and like matt said be prepared to bend over if you take it to a shop
a question to V8 eater what doe syour RACE GN run in the 1/4
#12
Hey Matt, I changed a few rear seals and also clutches on rear wheel drives so maybe I will give it a shot this weekend. I got a long weekend so guess I'll gather parts today.
Subs; Last fall before I snapped the crank, and did other damage, the race 87'GN ran a best of 11.3/121 with crappy 60' of 1.7. The engine is on a stand, bench, floor, etc... going back together slowly now. The frame is in Louisanna getting back-halved and tubbed with 4-link and going to a 10 point cage. Everything is going real slow as we had a child last March and bought a new house in July, so you can probally guess where the majority of my income goes. I've never taken my 86'gn to the track but its pretty much stock, so I guess it would run low to mid 13s.
Thanks guys, James L.
Subs; Last fall before I snapped the crank, and did other damage, the race 87'GN ran a best of 11.3/121 with crappy 60' of 1.7. The engine is on a stand, bench, floor, etc... going back together slowly now. The frame is in Louisanna getting back-halved and tubbed with 4-link and going to a 10 point cage. Everything is going real slow as we had a child last March and bought a new house in July, so you can probally guess where the majority of my income goes. I've never taken my 86'gn to the track but its pretty much stock, so I guess it would run low to mid 13s.
Thanks guys, James L.
#15
Originally Posted by v8eater
Hey Matt, I changed a few rear seals and also clutches on rear wheel drives so maybe I will give it a shot this weekend. I got a long weekend so guess I'll gather parts today.
Subs; Last fall before I snapped the crank, and did other damage, the race 87'GN ran a best of 11.3/121 with crappy 60' of 1.7. The engine is on a stand, bench, floor, etc... going back together slowly now. The frame is in Louisanna getting back-halved and tubbed with 4-link and going to a 10 point cage. Everything is going real slow as we had a child last March and bought a new house in July, so you can probally guess where the majority of my income goes. I've never taken my 86'gn to the track but its pretty much stock, so I guess it would run low to mid 13s.
Thanks guys, James L.
Subs; Last fall before I snapped the crank, and did other damage, the race 87'GN ran a best of 11.3/121 with crappy 60' of 1.7. The engine is on a stand, bench, floor, etc... going back together slowly now. The frame is in Louisanna getting back-halved and tubbed with 4-link and going to a 10 point cage. Everything is going real slow as we had a child last March and bought a new house in July, so you can probally guess where the majority of my income goes. I've never taken my 86'gn to the track but its pretty much stock, so I guess it would run low to mid 13s.
Thanks guys, James L.
ever put it on a dyno
#16
Originally Posted by subs1000w
nice times
ever put it on a dyno
ever put it on a dyno
Race GN at that time was 410RWHP@ 22lbs boost at 5200rpm on pump gas. Last year before the crank gave it was running around 470hp@25lbs boost shifting at 5600rpm on pump gas and alcohol injection.
May have to take this motor back apart to have it girdled to run race gas and around 550hp(fingers crossed) @ 27lbs boost.
Just for reference; a stock '86-87 GN will normally run between 220-265rwhp@16lbs boost at 4400rpm.
James L.
#17
Just wanted to say thank you to those that lended the advice and help.
I took the Maxima to the Trans shop and had the rear seal replaced Monday. Took him every bit of 5 hours and cost me $230 plus a $16 seal. He(mechanic) said he was scheduled a slow week so he would work with me on the price
. I guess it was slow, cause when wifey and I went to pick the Maxima up, he was boiling shrimp and drinking beer under a big oak in the back yard. His shop and home are on the same property. I didn't know it until I went to get the Maxima, but I work with both his wife and mother, so that might of had a little to do with the price.
Again thanks, James L.
I took the Maxima to the Trans shop and had the rear seal replaced Monday. Took him every bit of 5 hours and cost me $230 plus a $16 seal. He(mechanic) said he was scheduled a slow week so he would work with me on the price
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Again thanks, James L.
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