"some" info on automotive painting
"some" info on automotive painting
I say "some" because there is much more to painting than most people think. This is just a little info.
Also a disclaimer: I am not a professional painter nor do I claim to be. This info is stuff that I have picked up from my countless research on the net and from friends that are pros. Its just basic info and if you are serious about painting your car or doing body work then I encourage you to do a lot of research.
First some terminology:
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure)- These are paint guns that use low pressure at the tip of the gun (10 psi). This allows you to transfer more material with less waste because it doesnt "bounce" off of the panel. You set the HVLP guns at their specific inlet pressure (varies from gun to gun but is usually stamped on the gun itself) to get the 10 psi at the cap rating. The down sides to the HVLP guns are that they use a greater amount of air so you generally need a bigger compressor and they may not atomize as well as a conventional gun.
HVLP guns come in gravity feed (cup above gun) models as well as pressure and siphon (cup under gun) type models.
For those with small air compressors---
There are a few LVLP (low volume low pressure…they are actually listed as HVLP) guns out on the market. The Sharpe Platinum is one of these guns but unfortunately have been discontinued as of late. It only uses 7.5 cfm of air @ 50psi. This is a lot lower than a lot of HVLPs that need 13-15 cfm of air. Iwata makes a low volume gun as well but they are rather expensive at around $400 but some say they are the best guns on the market. The good things about the LVLP guns are that they use very little air supply and can be used by the average air compressor. The bad/good part of them is that they are slower than most guns (good for a newbie that needs to move slower...bad for someone used to a faster flowing gun).
Conventional guns---these are the standard guns that produce the same amount (or small drop) of air at the cap as the inlet. Conventional guns waste more material than HVLP because they blow the material at lot harder and not only can it "bounce" off of the panel but it also blows a lot more material into the air (I don’t think you can even use conventional guns in Cali.).
Conventional guns also come in gravity (cup above gun) feed, pressure and siphon (cup below gun) feed models.
There are a couple of good things about conventional guns though. First they really break up the material (atomizing) because of the high pressure at the tip. Some like a conventional gun for clear because it really lays down smooth because it breaks down the material so small. Secondly they use less air supply so you don’t need as big of a compressor as you usually do with an HVLP. The bad is obviously that it wastes more material than HVLP and with the costs of materials that is a big deal for shops trying to make money.
When considering paint guns you need to look at the tip size also. a smaller tip is usually better for paint and clear (1.2-1.4) while a 1.4-1.6 tip is good for most urethane and epoxy primers and sealers. A 1.8 or larger tip is good for polyester primer (sometimes called sprayable bondo). If you can only afford one gun (its not recommended mixing base coat guns with primer guns but it can be done if cleaned properly) then go for a 1.4 tip. This will allow you to use most primers and base and clear.
Also when setting the air pressure for the paint gun you need a mini regulator that is on the gun itself. The reason for this is that the air loss from the compressor to the gun will be more than you know. Also always set the pressure with the trigger of the gun pulled completely in.
On to some equipment you need:
Air compressor---The average HVLP gun will be too much for the average air compressor. Don’t think you can buy a $300 or $400 compressor and be able to run the 13cfm guns for any length of time. They will be fine for a panel here and there (like just a fender or just a hood) but will not work for a whole paint job. Expect to pay $1000-1200 minimum for a compressor that will be big enough to run these guns (as well as DA (dual action) and other types of air sanders.
You don't want to run out of air while you are painting because it will cause orange peal and/or dry spray (non shiny, rough feeling).
Face mask and eye goggles---OK your health is very important and you may not think that paint fumes are bad but believe me they are and can cause serious health problems. ISOs (Isocyante/Polyisocyanate) are used in a lot of hardeners and are extremely dangerous. Matter of fact most pros would rather use a fresh air supply instead of just a mask because a mask doesn’t fully protect you from these chemicals.
Obviously there are a ton of other things you will need such as a DA (not required but man are they great), sanding blocks, sand paper, cleaners, tack rags etc. but I am not going to get into all this info because these are things that you probably already know you need or your local jobber can help you out with.
Just remember when doing painting that cleanliness is the key.
Before you start sanding or anything else wash the car with a detergent such as Dawn or Joy then follow that up with a washing of a water anti acid mixture (baking soda) to neutralize any acid rain or bird poop that was on the car.
Then clean the car with a good wax and grease remover. You need to make sure and wipe small sections at a time and wipe the solvent dry instead of letting it air dry. Letting it air dry will just put the contaminants back onto the paint.
Now you may think "that is too much work I am just going to sand anyway" but the problem is that sanding just works the contaminants into the paint and that will be a problem in your final paint job. It is true that the key to a good paint job is good prep work. If you mess up on the prep work it will show after you paint.
Also always mix the paint or primer exactly like the company product sheet tells you to. If you don’t then you can have failure. Buy yourself a few mixing cups that have the mixture on the side of it to make this easier. They also make metal stir sticks with the mixtures on them.
Here are some good sites you can check out for info on sanding / body work etc.
Repair Nation --- this guy has some good write ups on how to repair panels and even how to wet sand and buff.
Autobody store (classroom) --- this is a direct link to what they call the classroom on their site. This has a lot of good info on it. They also have a forum on that site.
Paintucation --- This guy has some great videos from what I understand. he also has a link to a forum that is very helpful.
PPG refinishing info page --- if you click on product information it will take you to the different paint lines and when you click on a line then it will take you to the library of the products of that line. This is very important if you need to know the information of how to mix their products.
DuPont's site --- info on DuPont paints including the information sheets for their paints and primers.
Martin Senour's (NAPA) site --- NAPA sells this paint but it is just rebadged Sherwin Williams paint. This site has the info on their products.
Also a disclaimer: I am not a professional painter nor do I claim to be. This info is stuff that I have picked up from my countless research on the net and from friends that are pros. Its just basic info and if you are serious about painting your car or doing body work then I encourage you to do a lot of research.
First some terminology:
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure)- These are paint guns that use low pressure at the tip of the gun (10 psi). This allows you to transfer more material with less waste because it doesnt "bounce" off of the panel. You set the HVLP guns at their specific inlet pressure (varies from gun to gun but is usually stamped on the gun itself) to get the 10 psi at the cap rating. The down sides to the HVLP guns are that they use a greater amount of air so you generally need a bigger compressor and they may not atomize as well as a conventional gun.
HVLP guns come in gravity feed (cup above gun) models as well as pressure and siphon (cup under gun) type models.
For those with small air compressors---
There are a few LVLP (low volume low pressure…they are actually listed as HVLP) guns out on the market. The Sharpe Platinum is one of these guns but unfortunately have been discontinued as of late. It only uses 7.5 cfm of air @ 50psi. This is a lot lower than a lot of HVLPs that need 13-15 cfm of air. Iwata makes a low volume gun as well but they are rather expensive at around $400 but some say they are the best guns on the market. The good things about the LVLP guns are that they use very little air supply and can be used by the average air compressor. The bad/good part of them is that they are slower than most guns (good for a newbie that needs to move slower...bad for someone used to a faster flowing gun).
Conventional guns---these are the standard guns that produce the same amount (or small drop) of air at the cap as the inlet. Conventional guns waste more material than HVLP because they blow the material at lot harder and not only can it "bounce" off of the panel but it also blows a lot more material into the air (I don’t think you can even use conventional guns in Cali.).
Conventional guns also come in gravity (cup above gun) feed, pressure and siphon (cup below gun) feed models.
There are a couple of good things about conventional guns though. First they really break up the material (atomizing) because of the high pressure at the tip. Some like a conventional gun for clear because it really lays down smooth because it breaks down the material so small. Secondly they use less air supply so you don’t need as big of a compressor as you usually do with an HVLP. The bad is obviously that it wastes more material than HVLP and with the costs of materials that is a big deal for shops trying to make money.
When considering paint guns you need to look at the tip size also. a smaller tip is usually better for paint and clear (1.2-1.4) while a 1.4-1.6 tip is good for most urethane and epoxy primers and sealers. A 1.8 or larger tip is good for polyester primer (sometimes called sprayable bondo). If you can only afford one gun (its not recommended mixing base coat guns with primer guns but it can be done if cleaned properly) then go for a 1.4 tip. This will allow you to use most primers and base and clear.
Also when setting the air pressure for the paint gun you need a mini regulator that is on the gun itself. The reason for this is that the air loss from the compressor to the gun will be more than you know. Also always set the pressure with the trigger of the gun pulled completely in.
On to some equipment you need:
Air compressor---The average HVLP gun will be too much for the average air compressor. Don’t think you can buy a $300 or $400 compressor and be able to run the 13cfm guns for any length of time. They will be fine for a panel here and there (like just a fender or just a hood) but will not work for a whole paint job. Expect to pay $1000-1200 minimum for a compressor that will be big enough to run these guns (as well as DA (dual action) and other types of air sanders.
You don't want to run out of air while you are painting because it will cause orange peal and/or dry spray (non shiny, rough feeling).
Face mask and eye goggles---OK your health is very important and you may not think that paint fumes are bad but believe me they are and can cause serious health problems. ISOs (Isocyante/Polyisocyanate) are used in a lot of hardeners and are extremely dangerous. Matter of fact most pros would rather use a fresh air supply instead of just a mask because a mask doesn’t fully protect you from these chemicals.
Obviously there are a ton of other things you will need such as a DA (not required but man are they great), sanding blocks, sand paper, cleaners, tack rags etc. but I am not going to get into all this info because these are things that you probably already know you need or your local jobber can help you out with.
Just remember when doing painting that cleanliness is the key.
Before you start sanding or anything else wash the car with a detergent such as Dawn or Joy then follow that up with a washing of a water anti acid mixture (baking soda) to neutralize any acid rain or bird poop that was on the car.
Then clean the car with a good wax and grease remover. You need to make sure and wipe small sections at a time and wipe the solvent dry instead of letting it air dry. Letting it air dry will just put the contaminants back onto the paint.
Now you may think "that is too much work I am just going to sand anyway" but the problem is that sanding just works the contaminants into the paint and that will be a problem in your final paint job. It is true that the key to a good paint job is good prep work. If you mess up on the prep work it will show after you paint.
Also always mix the paint or primer exactly like the company product sheet tells you to. If you don’t then you can have failure. Buy yourself a few mixing cups that have the mixture on the side of it to make this easier. They also make metal stir sticks with the mixtures on them.
Here are some good sites you can check out for info on sanding / body work etc.
Repair Nation --- this guy has some good write ups on how to repair panels and even how to wet sand and buff.
Autobody store (classroom) --- this is a direct link to what they call the classroom on their site. This has a lot of good info on it. They also have a forum on that site.
Paintucation --- This guy has some great videos from what I understand. he also has a link to a forum that is very helpful.
PPG refinishing info page --- if you click on product information it will take you to the different paint lines and when you click on a line then it will take you to the library of the products of that line. This is very important if you need to know the information of how to mix their products.
DuPont's site --- info on DuPont paints including the information sheets for their paints and primers.
Martin Senour's (NAPA) site --- NAPA sells this paint but it is just rebadged Sherwin Williams paint. This site has the info on their products.
Originally Posted by awsm66
I say "some" because there is much more to painting than most people think. This is just a little info.
Also a disclaimer: I am not a professional painter nor do I claim to be. This info is stuff that I have picked up from my countless research on the net and from friends that are pros. Its just basic info and if you are serious about painting your car or doing body work then I encourage you to do a lot of research.
First some terminology:
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure)- These are paint guns that use low pressure at the tip of the gun (10 psi). This allows you to transfer more material with less waste because it doesnt "bounce" off of the panel. You set the HVLP guns at their specific inlet pressure (varies from gun to gun but is usually stamped on the gun itself) to get the 10 psi at the cap rating. The down sides to the HVLP guns are that they use a greater amount of air so you generally need a bigger compressor and they may not atomize as well as a conventional gun.
HVLP guns come in gravity feed (cup above gun) models as well as pressure and siphon (cup under gun) type models.
For those with small air compressors---
There are a few LVLP (low volume low pressure…they are actually listed as HVLP) guns out on the market. The Sharpe Platinum is one of these guns but unfortunately have been discontinued as of late. It only uses 7.5 cfm of air @ 50psi. This is a lot lower than a lot of HVLPs that need 13-15 cfm of air. Iwata makes a low volume gun as well but they are rather expensive at around $400 but some say they are the best guns on the market. The good things about the LVLP guns are that they use very little air supply and can be used by the average air compressor. The bad/good part of them is that they are slower than most guns (good for a newbie that needs to move slower...bad for someone used to a faster flowing gun).
Conventional guns---these are the standard guns that produce the same amount (or small drop) of air at the cap as the inlet. Conventional guns waste more material than HVLP because they blow the material at lot harder and not only can it "bounce" off of the panel but it also blows a lot more material into the air (I don’t think you can even use conventional guns in Cali.).
Conventional guns also come in gravity (cup above gun) feed, pressure and siphon (cup below gun) feed models.
There are a couple of good things about conventional guns though. First they really break up the material (atomizing) because of the high pressure at the tip. Some like a conventional gun for clear because it really lays down smooth because it breaks down the material so small. Secondly they use less air supply so you don’t need as big of a compressor as you usually do with an HVLP. The bad is obviously that it wastes more material than HVLP and with the costs of materials that is a big deal for shops trying to make money.
When considering paint guns you need to look at the tip size also. a smaller tip is usually better for paint and clear (1.2-1.4) while a 1.4-1.6 tip is good for most urethane and epoxy primers and sealers. A 1.8 or larger tip is good for polyester primer (sometimes called sprayable bondo). If you can only afford one gun (its not recommended mixing base coat guns with primer guns but it can be done if cleaned properly) then go for a 1.4 tip. This will allow you to use most primers and base and clear.
Also when setting the air pressure for the paint gun you need a mini regulator that is on the gun itself. The reason for this is that the air loss from the compressor to the gun will be more than you know. Also always set the pressure with the trigger of the gun pulled completely in.
On to some equipment you need:
Air compressor---The average HVLP gun will be too much for the average air compressor. Don’t think you can buy a $300 or $400 compressor and be able to run the 13cfm guns for any length of time. They will be fine for a panel here and there (like just a fender or just a hood) but will not work for a whole paint job. Expect to pay $1000-1200 minimum for a compressor that will be big enough to run these guns (as well as DA (dual action) and other types of air sanders.
You don't want to run out of air while you are painting because it will cause orange peal and/or dry spray (non shiny, rough feeling).
Face mask and eye goggles---OK your health is very important and you may not think that paint fumes are bad but believe me they are and can cause serious health problems. ISOs (Isocyante/Polyisocyanate) are used in a lot of hardeners and are extremely dangerous. Matter of fact most pros would rather use a fresh air supply instead of just a mask because a mask doesn’t fully protect you from these chemicals.
Obviously there are a ton of other things you will need such as a DA (not required but man are they great), sanding blocks, sand paper, cleaners, tack rags etc. but I am not going to get into all this info because these are things that you probably already know you need or your local jobber can help you out with.
Just remember when doing painting that cleanliness is the key.
Before you start sanding or anything else wash the car with a detergent such as Dawn or Joy then follow that up with a washing of a water anti acid mixture (baking soda) to neutralize any acid rain or bird poop that was on the car.
Then clean the car with a good wax and grease remover. You need to make sure and wipe small sections at a time and wipe the solvent dry instead of letting it air dry. Letting it air dry will just put the contaminants back onto the paint.
Now you may think "that is too much work I am just going to sand anyway" but the problem is that sanding just works the contaminants into the paint and that will be a problem in your final paint job. It is true that the key to a good paint job is good prep work. If you mess up on the prep work it will show after you paint.
Also always mix the paint or primer exactly like the company product sheet tells you to. If you don’t then you can have failure. Buy yourself a few mixing cups that have the mixture on the side of it to make this easier. They also make metal stir sticks with the mixtures on them.
Here are some good sites you can check out for info on sanding / body work etc.
Repair Nation --- this guy has some good write ups on how to repair panels and even how to wet sand and buff.
Autobody store (classroom) --- this is a direct link to what they call the classroom on their site. This has a lot of good info on it. They also have a forum on that site.
Paintucation --- This guy has some great videos from what I understand. he also has a link to a forum that is very helpful.
PPG refinishing info page --- if you click on product information it will take you to the different paint lines and when you click on a line then it will take you to the library of the products of that line. This is very important if you need to know the information of how to mix their products.
DuPont's site --- info on DuPont paints including the information sheets for their paints and primers.
Martin Senour's (NAPA) site --- NAPA sells this paint but it is just rebadged Sherwin Williams paint. This site has the info on their products.
Also a disclaimer: I am not a professional painter nor do I claim to be. This info is stuff that I have picked up from my countless research on the net and from friends that are pros. Its just basic info and if you are serious about painting your car or doing body work then I encourage you to do a lot of research.
First some terminology:
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure)- These are paint guns that use low pressure at the tip of the gun (10 psi). This allows you to transfer more material with less waste because it doesnt "bounce" off of the panel. You set the HVLP guns at their specific inlet pressure (varies from gun to gun but is usually stamped on the gun itself) to get the 10 psi at the cap rating. The down sides to the HVLP guns are that they use a greater amount of air so you generally need a bigger compressor and they may not atomize as well as a conventional gun.
HVLP guns come in gravity feed (cup above gun) models as well as pressure and siphon (cup under gun) type models.
For those with small air compressors---
There are a few LVLP (low volume low pressure…they are actually listed as HVLP) guns out on the market. The Sharpe Platinum is one of these guns but unfortunately have been discontinued as of late. It only uses 7.5 cfm of air @ 50psi. This is a lot lower than a lot of HVLPs that need 13-15 cfm of air. Iwata makes a low volume gun as well but they are rather expensive at around $400 but some say they are the best guns on the market. The good things about the LVLP guns are that they use very little air supply and can be used by the average air compressor. The bad/good part of them is that they are slower than most guns (good for a newbie that needs to move slower...bad for someone used to a faster flowing gun).
Conventional guns---these are the standard guns that produce the same amount (or small drop) of air at the cap as the inlet. Conventional guns waste more material than HVLP because they blow the material at lot harder and not only can it "bounce" off of the panel but it also blows a lot more material into the air (I don’t think you can even use conventional guns in Cali.).
Conventional guns also come in gravity (cup above gun) feed, pressure and siphon (cup below gun) feed models.
There are a couple of good things about conventional guns though. First they really break up the material (atomizing) because of the high pressure at the tip. Some like a conventional gun for clear because it really lays down smooth because it breaks down the material so small. Secondly they use less air supply so you don’t need as big of a compressor as you usually do with an HVLP. The bad is obviously that it wastes more material than HVLP and with the costs of materials that is a big deal for shops trying to make money.
When considering paint guns you need to look at the tip size also. a smaller tip is usually better for paint and clear (1.2-1.4) while a 1.4-1.6 tip is good for most urethane and epoxy primers and sealers. A 1.8 or larger tip is good for polyester primer (sometimes called sprayable bondo). If you can only afford one gun (its not recommended mixing base coat guns with primer guns but it can be done if cleaned properly) then go for a 1.4 tip. This will allow you to use most primers and base and clear.
Also when setting the air pressure for the paint gun you need a mini regulator that is on the gun itself. The reason for this is that the air loss from the compressor to the gun will be more than you know. Also always set the pressure with the trigger of the gun pulled completely in.
On to some equipment you need:
Air compressor---The average HVLP gun will be too much for the average air compressor. Don’t think you can buy a $300 or $400 compressor and be able to run the 13cfm guns for any length of time. They will be fine for a panel here and there (like just a fender or just a hood) but will not work for a whole paint job. Expect to pay $1000-1200 minimum for a compressor that will be big enough to run these guns (as well as DA (dual action) and other types of air sanders.
You don't want to run out of air while you are painting because it will cause orange peal and/or dry spray (non shiny, rough feeling).
Face mask and eye goggles---OK your health is very important and you may not think that paint fumes are bad but believe me they are and can cause serious health problems. ISOs (Isocyante/Polyisocyanate) are used in a lot of hardeners and are extremely dangerous. Matter of fact most pros would rather use a fresh air supply instead of just a mask because a mask doesn’t fully protect you from these chemicals.
Obviously there are a ton of other things you will need such as a DA (not required but man are they great), sanding blocks, sand paper, cleaners, tack rags etc. but I am not going to get into all this info because these are things that you probably already know you need or your local jobber can help you out with.
Just remember when doing painting that cleanliness is the key.
Before you start sanding or anything else wash the car with a detergent such as Dawn or Joy then follow that up with a washing of a water anti acid mixture (baking soda) to neutralize any acid rain or bird poop that was on the car.
Then clean the car with a good wax and grease remover. You need to make sure and wipe small sections at a time and wipe the solvent dry instead of letting it air dry. Letting it air dry will just put the contaminants back onto the paint.
Now you may think "that is too much work I am just going to sand anyway" but the problem is that sanding just works the contaminants into the paint and that will be a problem in your final paint job. It is true that the key to a good paint job is good prep work. If you mess up on the prep work it will show after you paint.
Also always mix the paint or primer exactly like the company product sheet tells you to. If you don’t then you can have failure. Buy yourself a few mixing cups that have the mixture on the side of it to make this easier. They also make metal stir sticks with the mixtures on them.
Here are some good sites you can check out for info on sanding / body work etc.
Repair Nation --- this guy has some good write ups on how to repair panels and even how to wet sand and buff.
Autobody store (classroom) --- this is a direct link to what they call the classroom on their site. This has a lot of good info on it. They also have a forum on that site.
Paintucation --- This guy has some great videos from what I understand. he also has a link to a forum that is very helpful.
PPG refinishing info page --- if you click on product information it will take you to the different paint lines and when you click on a line then it will take you to the library of the products of that line. This is very important if you need to know the information of how to mix their products.
DuPont's site --- info on DuPont paints including the information sheets for their paints and primers.
Martin Senour's (NAPA) site --- NAPA sells this paint but it is just rebadged Sherwin Williams paint. This site has the info on their products.
hell no, tires need to stay inside of the sheetmetal. yup it's a jack, and we dont need to "jack" mike's sticky with useless juan trivia.
btw, the jack handle gets me 3 extra hp since its free flowing
btw, i kno all those sayings were gay, before someone says so, but i figured i would keep them
btw, the jack handle gets me 3 extra hp since its free flowing
btw, i kno all those sayings were gay, before someone says so, but i figured i would keep them
Originally Posted by shavedmax
yup it's a jack, and we dont need to "jack" mike's sticky with useless juan trivia.
I dont mind. Heck you have more knowledge of this stuff than I do.Thanks everyone.
I know its not really usefull to the average poster but the next time someone asks I dont have to type it all over again (thanks Jeff).
Originally Posted by awsm66
I dont mind. Heck you have more knowledge of this stuff than I do.Thanks everyone.
I know its not really usefull to the average poster but the next time someone asks I dont have to type it all over again (thanks Jeff).
not that I had any, but still ;-). I need to read it all over hehehe
Originally Posted by anaximander
Yo mike, never got an answer as to how much you'd charge for a quality paint job?
I dont recall being asked
. I may have missed it somewhere. Email me (click my name in my sig) and we can talk.
Mike. What is your opinion on the following:
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Mike. What is your opinion on the following:
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
1 - plastic sheet and wet down floor should be ok. just keep the wind down and dust level low. also try to get a single direction flow of air..small fan or something so you can actually see what you're shooting..LOW SPEED.
2 - gold is a PITA...it's probably close to a pearl in terms of difficulty since the position of the metallic in the paint is hard to match to factory. shoot a letdown panel or something and see how close you can match it w/ the technique you use. i heard shooting a fine mist above the painted surface to get a better metallic flow before the clear helps.
3 - i'm pretty sure you can blend it...but it does take some skill since you have a high spot and a low spot with the paint. is it that bad that you can't take some clear touch up and dab some on?
1) Thanks. Actually dad has added doors since then. but I guess I can set up a fan and keep the garage door cracked?
2) Ugh, I thought silver was the worst. I heard of misting the last coat so the metallic stays on top but damned if I know how to do that.
3) Blending would be tough. I'd rather just take my chances and stop at a fender trim line etc...
If you look real close at the clear, it looks like it's crinkled. But if you run you hand over it, it's smooth. So it looks like it's in the clear. Not sure if I can wet sand/buff it out.
2) Ugh, I thought silver was the worst. I heard of misting the last coat so the metallic stays on top but damned if I know how to do that.
3) Blending would be tough. I'd rather just take my chances and stop at a fender trim line etc...
If you look real close at the clear, it looks like it's crinkled. But if you run you hand over it, it's smooth. So it looks like it's in the clear. Not sure if I can wet sand/buff it out.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Mike. What is your opinion on the following:
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
1) I've painted before (so-so results) in my dad's garage. I just wet the floor and used a plastic sheet over the garage opening to "seal" the garage space. Acceptable?
2) My car is the beige/gold metallic. I was thinking of respraying the same color. Do you know if this shade of gold metallic is that hard to spray correct? ie.. I know silver is the hardest to spray w/o tiger stripes etc.
3) Some parts were hit with eggs and it discolored the clear. Can the clear be sanded and resprayed with clear only? If so, then I could fix the minor dings etc.. and color match and avoid the 100% respray?
From the above, I'd like to use a high pressure version. I don't have a high enough cap compressor to run a low pressure unit.
1.yeah that is what I basically have done. Just be sure to cut out some space and put filters for an inlet and have a fan blowing out. you can put a filter over this as well but it can get clogged with overspray.
2. any high metalic paint can be difficult to paint without getting tiger stripes. I have a couple of tips on metalics I read though
a. of course keep your gun perfectly straight...dont tip it or the paint will concentrate more on that edge which will cause striping.
b. lay your paint on until hiding and then lay a last lower pressure coat on. Reduce the pressure at the gun and pull the gun back a little. This is kind of a misting but not that light. I have heard of a couple of people using this with good results and I also used it on Craigs prelude.
3. Well I honestly dont know about this. I have not really looked into repairing damaged clear. I do know that if you sand all the clear down (factory clear is pretty thin on our cars) then you will need to redo the base anyway. I have no experience with blending either. I am going to try it on my 92 since the roof is faded pretty bad.
I am also not sure but dont think you can go lower than 800 if you want to just clear. Also remember lighter colors show up sand scratches much worse than darker colors so you have to be careful there. I think I would sand with 600 rebase and reclear. I dont think I would try just sanding and reclearing.
I actually prefer high pressure with the clear because it atomizes the clear really well.
You can use Shawns Husky HVLP for the base though since it works at a low pressure (he said he has the same Husky HVLP I have). I actually like it for base and for the price it performs well.
EDIT: looks like I type too slow again. Dan beat me to it. We pretty much said the same thing though.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
1) Thanks. Actually dad has added doors since then. but I guess I can set up a fan and keep the garage door cracked?
2) Ugh, I thought silver was the worst. I heard of misting the last coat so the metallic stays on top but damned if I know how to do that.
3) Blending would be tough. I'd rather just take my chances and stop at a fender trim line etc...
2) Ugh, I thought silver was the worst. I heard of misting the last coat so the metallic stays on top but damned if I know how to do that.
3) Blending would be tough. I'd rather just take my chances and stop at a fender trim line etc...
my rating of easy to hard...solid, metallics, pearls/candies. so silver is same as the gold. if you see metallic flakes/specks in the paint then it's a PITA. like i said man...shoot a let down panel or test panel. match that up w/ the rest of the car.
you can adjust your gun pressure, adjust how many coats, etc etc...just to get the right match. i had to shoot 3-4 coats of pearls to get it dark enough to match up w/ the rest of the car. since pearls just gets darker and darker the more u spray i just use a small panel and sprayed a few coats to match up w/ the rest of the car.
to blend you should feather the edge of the damaged area so you have a smooth transition from the spot w/ clear and spot w/o clear. then shoot on the spot w/o clear and blend it back...PITA.
Originally Posted by awsm66
You can use Shawns Husky HVLP for the base though since it works at a low pressure (he said he has the same Husky HVLP I have). I actually like it for base and for the price it performs well.
actually I was going to reply earlier but I was distracted with the camera lol.
You can borrow my compressor aswell if you need to.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Mike. Have you tried to spray a light metallic? How did it come out? I tried on my dad's old Buick once. Came out "okay" but it was only a panel repair.
I painted my sisters door and quarter panel in a gold color. It came out great and actually matched quite well. I used my first paint gun which was an old cheap syphon feed gun.
Here is a pic:
I only painted the door, quarter, trunk, and the small part just above door.
I did not paint the bumper or the piece just below the tail light. The piece just below the tail light had been painted before because it wasnt even close to the rest of the car.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Nice. Did you just fade the b & c up the pillar?
nope I just painted the whole piece. The piece above the doors was seperate from the rest of the roof by a black piece or something so I just taped it off and painted that whole part so it would match with the quarter. That was the first big thing I had painted so I didnt even attempt to do a blend or anything. Plus my dad just wanted it sprayed so we could sell it.
I'll try to snap some pics. Maybe I can get away with a partial repaint and not a total repaint. I'd like to paint my Stillen lip and paint the lowers body color vs the dark metallic gray. And my nerf door trim is starting to fade.
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