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Hesitation then sputtering then stalling out

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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 08:14 PM
  #1  
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Hesitation then sputtering then stalling out

about 2 weeks ago i was driving my car,i was waiting in traffic and then when i started to go my car wouldnt go any higher than 15mph,i had the pedal to the metal going no where,it was driving for about 2 mins like this then it just stalled out,no smoke or anything just a plain stall,it wouldnt start back up so i had to get it towed.i checked the ecu it gave me code 55.i checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine,the ones in the engine seemed okay but i dont really know how to tell if they are bad.it seems like its not getting good sparks or getting any gas i dont know which,but when i turn the key to "on" i hear the fuel pump come on i was just wondering if anyone had similar problems and what did you do to fix it ant help will be appricated.btw its a 89 auto se. thanks
Old Oct 13, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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sounds like a sensor died to me.. at first I was thinking MAF, but it would let you start the car and at least run up to about 2000rpm.

I dunno dude.. keep looking.
Old Oct 13, 2004 | 09:01 PM
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thanks for your reply edit: im not being sarcastic im just sayin thanks lol ima nice guy
Old Oct 13, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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check fuel pressure
Old Oct 13, 2004 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnifico
check fuel pressure

this is my first car i dont really know much,how can i check my fuel pressure?
Old Oct 13, 2004 | 10:15 PM
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too many possiblities to list here as your possible causes and solution to those causes. I think you're better off consulting the first few pages of the Hayes book for answers.
Old Oct 14, 2004 | 05:57 AM
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have you ever replaced the fuel filter?
Cap/rotor/wires?
plugs?
Old Oct 14, 2004 | 06:33 AM
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Check codes go to stickies. Mine was the MAF code 12 but after every stall it sarted right up and run fine until the next time. It sounds like your MAF. Unplug it and see if it runs the same. Check this site out for hesitation problems zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html
Old Oct 14, 2004 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RMAX
Check codes go to stickies. Mine was the MAF code 12 but after every stall it sarted right up and run fine until the next time. It sounds like your MAF. Unplug it and see if it runs the same. Check this site out for hesitation problems zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html

it doesnt run lol it wont start up


to internetautomart i got the cap changed and the fuel filter look grimy as hell i took it from its mount it sounded like it had fuel in it
Old Oct 14, 2004 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JMAGIC89
i took it from its mount it sounded like it had fuel in it
it will always have fuel in it as it's integrated into the fuel system....
Old Oct 14, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JMAGIC89
the fuel filter look grimy as hell
so it's probably due for replacement
Old Oct 15, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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whoever can help me get my car running i will pay you something thru paypal
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 12:48 AM
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I the had the same code come up and it was for injectors. Turns out I had 3 bad injectors ( the car did not stall or hesitate very bad, I had it in the shop for something else and had them check and see what the code was for. ) Low and behold, it was the three at the back of the engine, the ones under the plenum. The plenum traps the heat back there and kills them,. I live in Arizona so the heat factor may be a little diffrent where you are, but the mechanic (who I trust and is a friend and drives a Maxima ) told me this is what kills the injectors. I was totally shocked that the car was performing relatively well on three cylinders, but it definitely runs awesome now, but now I need a clutch.....go figure. I got reconditioned Python injects for 80 bucks a pop and dont remember how much the plenum gasket was. While your in there check out your knock sensor, (provided your rears are bad) Good luck...
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 01:25 AM
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code 55 is NOT for injectors, its the default code for when no errors are stored

not to say your injectors werent bad, the rest of what you said is accurate

to original poster, this is what my order of priorities would be :
1) first of all rule out the charging system first. Can you start the car by jumping it?
2) make sure cap rotor wires and plugs are on good condition
3) check fuel pressure to rule out fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator
4) i think itd be worth checking out the ignition coil and ECCS relays. they can cause these problems and are a farily common problem it seems
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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to magnifico i wish i knew how to check for those problems i just turned 19 and this is my first car so i dont know alot i was wondering are there any websites that will tell me how to do those things or can u tell me? i belive i have 3 bad injectors though thats what the mechanic said but i didnt have 1000 dollars to pay him to change all of them
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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youll learn as you go along, its my first car too. when you have a problem like this is when youll learn the most if you try to fix it yourself. Google is the repository for all human knowledge, just remember that. You should get a shop manual, and also a multimieter, fuel pressure gauge, and make sure you have basic tools if you plan on working on your own car.

is your engine a VE (1992-1994 SE) or a VG (1989-1991 SE, 1989-1994 GXE). do you know which injectors the mechanic said were bad? how was the car runnnig before this happeend? Did you replace the fuel filter yet?
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 03:52 PM
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i belive he said the three in the back, i got a vg engine. i dont have money in my pocket to go buy a fuel filter( no job) well i might how much do they usually run for? i need to buy a manual and a multimeter and fpg and the only toolz i got is a screwdriver and a pair of visc grips lol
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JMAGIC89
i belive he said the three in the back, i got a vg engine. i dont have money in my pocket to go buy a fuel filter( no job) well i might how much do they usually run for? i need to buy a manual and a multimeter and fpg and the only toolz i got is a screwdriver and a pair of visc grips lol
Those tools ain't gonna cut it, I'm afraid....but, like Magnifico said, now's a great time to start learning about how the car works and how to fix it. Just like he said, check the electrical first. That doesn't cost anything.

1. Does the car even crank? Sounds like you have at least some power if you hear the fuel pump come on.
2. Hearing the fuel pump running is a good thing. It means that you're getting power back there, AND MOST LIKELY, you are getting fuel to the engine (not 100% sure, but probably).
3. Even if you had 3 bad injectors, the car would at least TRY to start..it would stumble and run like crap (probably), but if that's all that was wrong, I think it would at least try and turn over. (like joeNismo said)
4. Fuel filter could be clogged enough(maybe?) to keep you from running. Replacements are only about $10-$12, and if you can check your ECU codes, you have enough skill to replace the filter. I don't think that is the whole cause of your problem, but it might be part of it.

Without more info as to EXACTLY what it is or isn't doing when you try to start it, that's all I know to do...plus what the other guys said.
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 06:21 PM
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mod or sell?
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I think sears has a set of ratchets on sale this week
I told you to call mike and see how much he wants to do the job
Old Oct 16, 2004 | 06:47 PM
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i am going to call him in a little while i dont have enough money right now and i know he isnt going to do it for 20 dollars lol and like you said he only does work out of his garage do u think he could come over here this way? the car just cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks it turned over one time but it just stalled/sputterd out i drained my battery to hell lmao
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