Location of Door Lock Switch
10-14-2004, 11:03 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 74
Location of Door Lock Switch
I know this is a common problem, and a highly discussed topic, but due to the search engine being down, the only way for me to find a solution is to post a new topic. I know that in order to fix my power lock issue, there is a switch close to the steering column inside the dash....but thats all I know. Is there anyone that can help me out on this and get a little more specific? What part do I need to replace and about how much would it cost? A picture would be great. Thanks for the help, sorry for the repost, i'm sure you guys get tired of hearing about this.
10-14-2004, 11:17 AM
#2
door lock timer
grey plastic box just to the right of the steering column after you remove the lower drivers side dash piece
you need to take out the pcb and resolder the board, mainly the area around the relay
There is a good site that someone else made with some pictures, but I cant find it right now. Maybe someone else can give you the link (someone who can search).
here's a pic of another site
grey plastic box just to the right of the steering column after you remove the lower drivers side dash piece
you need to take out the pcb and resolder the board, mainly the area around the relay
There is a good site that someone else made with some pictures, but I cant find it right now. Maybe someone else can give you the link (someone who can search).
here's a pic of another site
10-14-2004, 12:15 PM
#4
A.new one is about 90 bucks from the dealer. It is easy to fix but if you haven't soldered before I wouldn't recommend starting there. A local electronic repair place might do it real cheap or you could mail it to me with 10 bucks and I'll solder it for you.
Soldering is a nice skill to acquire. Get a book and read and then practice on some old circuit boards.
Soldering is a nice skill to acquire. Get a book and read and then practice on some old circuit boards.
10-14-2004, 08:01 PM
#7
the user kachorknik had the write up i search it out. but i get the 404 message when trying to access it....if matts busy i can also solder it if the boards ok and its just the joints that have cracked..
10-15-2004, 07:10 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Grizbone
would this have anything to do with why when i press the door look switch and shut the door it unlocks itself?
10-15-2004, 07:40 AM
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
no, keys in hand, THe only way I can lock the doors with me outside of thecar is if I lock the drivers door with the key and then it automatically locks them all. BUt if I it the lock button and shut the door it pops up and unlocks them all again.
10-15-2004, 08:48 AM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 445
Originally Posted by Grizbone
no, keys in hand, THe only way I can lock the doors with me outside of thecar is if I lock the drivers door with the key and then it automatically locks them all. BUt if I it the lock button and shut the door it pops up and unlocks them all again.
10-15-2004, 11:11 AM
#13
The link to the door lock timer fix that someone posted before is http://65.65.104.211/cars/maxima/rep...ckTimerBox.htm
(thanks Jeff for finding it)
but, the site doesn't seem to be working right now. It's really not that much more info anyway, just take it out and resolder it (or send it to Matt)
(thanks Jeff for finding it)
but, the site doesn't seem to be working right now. It's really not that much more info anyway, just take it out and resolder it (or send it to Matt)
10-16-2004, 11:22 AM
#16
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actually my e-mail is asaw3157@yahoo.com, for some reason when i posted it i didn't finish it
10-25-2004, 07:30 PM
#19
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10-26-2004, 11:50 AM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 50
I found some more info on this problem. It says the capacitors go out over time and you can just replace them.
Here is the site: http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/...ges/43333.html
Here is the site: http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/...ges/43333.html
10-26-2004, 01:06 PM
#21
the majority of the time it's just the door lock timer that needs to be resoldered and you dont need to replace the caps
All the guys waiting for an email, there really isn't that much more info that you need. There is a pic of the timer at the top of this thread. Take out the pcb and resolder it. BAM!
All the guys waiting for an email, there really isn't that much more info that you need. There is a pic of the timer at the top of this thread. Take out the pcb and resolder it. BAM!
10-26-2004, 01:20 PM
#22
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
The problem is, Where exactly do you solder it?
Its a complex circuit board, with many unions etc etc.
Is there usually a certain problematic area?
If I take a picture of the board can you show where I should resolder?
Let me know
Mark
Its a complex circuit board, with many unions etc etc.
Is there usually a certain problematic area?
If I take a picture of the board can you show where I should resolder?
Let me know
Mark
10-26-2004, 01:33 PM
#23
it really isn't that complex of a PCB (I know I'm biased since I'm an electrical engineer, but still)
it should only take 15 minutes or so to resolder every joint on that board, but if you dont want to do that, just focus on the connections to the relay (the large box on the PCB). Also look closely at each joint to make sure the solder looks clean and smooth. If not, resolder that joint.
edit: yeah, if you take a pic of the back of the PCB, I'll show you where the relay is (which is generally the problem area).
it should only take 15 minutes or so to resolder every joint on that board, but if you dont want to do that, just focus on the connections to the relay (the large box on the PCB). Also look closely at each joint to make sure the solder looks clean and smooth. If not, resolder that joint.
edit: yeah, if you take a pic of the back of the PCB, I'll show you where the relay is (which is generally the problem area).
10-26-2004, 01:51 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
I checked for continuity between a lot of the paths. Everything seems to be decent.
The parts that we are resoldering are the pads of solder that already exist right? That attach the relay to the board (where the prongs come right through the actual board) Cus I don't think I can solder the actual pathways of the circuit board, wayyyyy too small.
Let me know if I am on the right track.
Mark
The parts that we are resoldering are the pads of solder that already exist right? That attach the relay to the board (where the prongs come right through the actual board) Cus I don't think I can solder the actual pathways of the circuit board, wayyyyy too small.
Let me know if I am on the right track.
Mark
10-26-2004, 04:13 PM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
Well a member was kind enough to send me the word file.
NOTE: Could someone else please host this picture, my ISP will cut me when my bandwidth limits gets exceeded. I can even send the entire article to someone if they can host it.
Here is the picture i was looking for:
I tested this joint with my continuity tester and it has infact seperated.
Thanks for all your help!!!!!! Door locks here I come!!!!
Cheers
Mark
NOTE: Could someone else please host this picture, my ISP will cut me when my bandwidth limits gets exceeded. I can even send the entire article to someone if they can host it.
Here is the picture i was looking for:
I tested this joint with my continuity tester and it has infact seperated.
Thanks for all your help!!!!!! Door locks here I come!!!!
Cheers
Mark
11-09-2004, 04:12 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 148
Would you guys think this could allso be the problem with my door locks allways locking on me when i close the doors? even with the keys in the ignition this happens to me. This is expecially a big pain in the a$$ when i forget my wallet in the car with my door code lol.
11-09-2004, 04:30 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
Yes I think this would cause that symptom for sure, why I am I so sure?
Cus the same thing happened in my car!!!
Its your door lock timer!!! RESOLDER IT!
Cus the same thing happened in my car!!!
Its your door lock timer!!! RESOLDER IT!
Originally Posted by Hemphire
Would you guys think this could allso be the problem with my door locks allways locking on me when i close the doors? even with the keys in the ignition this happens to me. This is expecially a big pain in the a$$ when i forget my wallet in the car with my door code lol.
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