Hey org.

I finally got my maxima back on the road. Finished doing the b/s involved w/ putting things back together that i took off for the tranny job (splash guards, gossets, intake, radiator, oil change, fluids, hood, etc)...actually left the petcock open on the radiator for the second time in a month...FUN!

Anyways cars running like a dream now but there are a few annoyances. The first one was taken care of...I'd have to press down in D to make it go from Neutral to Drive...readjusted shift linkage and now it's fine.

One is one of the most common problems I've heard...the damn orange interlock at the bottom of the shifter. I've found no other problems with the car that would trigger it so far, and I know that I've seen a post or something somewhere describing how to permanently disable it but I can't seem to find it now and I don't remember how to do it. It'd be great if somebody could point me in the right direction or tell me briefly how it's done.

Another is that I don't have any heat. Engines at operating temp, heat is all the way up on the dash control, still blows cold air. Is this vacuum operated? Are there some things I should look at to try to get it to blow warm air again? New England Winter's right around the corner, and I'd hate to have another winter in a car w/o heat (my last car, a volvo, lost heat in the middle of January last year)

Third isn't really an annoyance so much as just a random question...the door speakers, are they 4x6's or 4" speakers? I know I could just check but I've historically had problems with removing door panels (especially on old doors), and I'd really like to avoid removing it more times than I really have to. I bought the car without speakers in it, and I'm seeing different things from different sources. Crutchfield says either/or, and eBay speaker selecter says that it's 4x6 but in notes is says something like BOSEFRONTDOOR4" or something like that.

The car is a 1990 Maxima, A/T, "Bose Sound System". Thanks alot guys.
Fred.

 

no heat could be bad heater core....that would suck after doing all that work however there may be an air bubble in the system. run the car, take the rad cap off and let it bubble out. then there should be a release valve on the intake manifold (at least the VE motor does dont quote me) open the valve with engine running (close rad cap) and see if air releases..... if you have a steady flow of coolant then your core might be shot....

if you have the bose system you have 4" round speakers...

 

The car is almost 15 years old. My is a 90 too, take it too a local shop and try having the heater core flushed first before replacing it. Or do it yourself.But being 15 years old it probably has some crud in there. You'd be surprised how many heating issues that takes care of.

 

before you buy the speakers look at the speaker covers on the rear. If they say bose then you have 4" speakers up front and 6x9's in the rear. If it says active speakers then it's 4x6's up front and 6.75" in the rear. Bose also had two amps in the upper deck if you look at the speakers in the trunk. The amps look like two black things just hanging from the rear deck.

 

Unfortunatly I have no speaker covers in the back. The openings are 6x9 but I don't know if they originially were or not. It looks like the amp was bypassed by the previous owner by running new speaker wire into an aftermarket h.u.

Thanks for your help on the heater core, I'll take care of those suggestions next time I get a chance to work on it in daylight.

Does anybody know how to break that shifter lock? It's one of those things that really irks me.

Also, I read about a simple solution in an early post but don't remember what it said...it was a problem with the trunk only opening by the key, not by the linkage...does anyone know what it was I had to do?

Sorry I gotta ask so many questions but aside from doing a transmission I know pretty much nothing about this car.

Thanks guys,
Fred

 

If your car isn't stuck in a gear then don't bother the shift lock button. Every auto third gen has one. The only problem is when the tranny gets stuck in a gear due to it dying. Meaning that the tranny is on it's way to auto heaven.

Almost forgot.
If you have some power tools you may be able to fabricate some 6.5" speaker pods for the front door. You can do this by taking the stock 4" or 4x6 pod off and tracing it's shape then cut a 6.5" hole in the middle of the pod, add a mdf layer of about 2" to the outer edge and now you have your pod.

 

I'm talking about the orange button at the bottom of the shifter, the one you have to press on as well as the one at the top to shift out of park. It's really annoying to shift out of park while holding a ciggarette and talking on the phone with it the way it is.

 

I think this is used as an anti theft way of someone not being able to get in your trunk if they were able to get in your car and hit your trunk release button.....I like it like this because of my stereo equip in the trunk, I only want it to be open with a big *** cro-bar and some beast strength, or the key. To disable this, and allow use of the inside button there is a switch on the latch in the trunk. look around, you should be able to find it

 

wow and here this whole time i thought my trunk release on the keypad and on the drivers door was broken i just went outside found the latch and they both work now *****in

 

I have the opposite problem, everything else works, its just the key that wont open the trunk.

 

You should only have to press the button on the shifter to get it out of park. That shift lock is probhably when your in gear an don't want the shifter to accidently shift into neutral.