Brake bleeding order confusion
#1
Brake bleeding order confusion
I'm a bit confused in the order of which to bleed first and last.
Generally you would want to start farthest away from the master cylinder and work towards it.
i.e. Right rear, left rear, front right, and front left.
The Chilton manual says to start first with left rear, right front, rear right then left front.
Which should I follow?
Thanks guys
Generally you would want to start farthest away from the master cylinder and work towards it.
i.e. Right rear, left rear, front right, and front left.
The Chilton manual says to start first with left rear, right front, rear right then left front.
Which should I follow?
Thanks guys
#3
Originally Posted by MrGone
I'm not sure, I've never worked on a GT-R maxima
When I bought my car the SE on the back was pretty much gone. The only thing left was the sticky glue. So I cleaned it up and had a GT-R badge from a friend, 4" x 1" and placed it on the lower driver side. VE none the less.
anyways wadda ya think, should I do the bleeding process according to the manual?
#4
I've never seen a 3rd gen with an SE badge.
when I did mine if just did the way I was taught (pass rear/driver rear/pass front/driver front). However if it's ABS it could very well be driver rear/pass rear/driver front/pass front because the abs thing is on the passenger side. The chilton thing could be because most modern cars brake systems are split 50/50 so incase something happens to one side, you can still stop with the other 50% (I dont really remember exactly anymore). Normally they split it driver front/pass rear then pass front/driver rear instead of front and rear or left than right.
when I did mine if just did the way I was taught (pass rear/driver rear/pass front/driver front). However if it's ABS it could very well be driver rear/pass rear/driver front/pass front because the abs thing is on the passenger side. The chilton thing could be because most modern cars brake systems are split 50/50 so incase something happens to one side, you can still stop with the other 50% (I dont really remember exactly anymore). Normally they split it driver front/pass rear then pass front/driver rear instead of front and rear or left than right.
#6
Pics if your interested in what I'm talking about
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4892copy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4891copy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN4885.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4881copy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4892copy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4891copy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN4885.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...CN4881copy.jpg
#10
Originally Posted by bhunter
I think the badge that came off your car must have been a dealer logo or something. I've never seen an SE badge on a 3rd gen. either.
Really? wierd... Isn't there some SE badge anywhere on the car when first bought?
I thought the SE came on the back of the car, upper right when it came out of factory.
#11
Originally Posted by Maxmus_X
Really? wierd... Isn't there some SE badge anywhere on the car when first bought? I thought the SE came on the back of the car, upper right when it came out of factory.
The RR, LR, RF and LF method is a industry standard
The LR, RF, RR and LF is a diagonal method. Some hyd brake system are designed on a split (diagonal) braking system. Those type of braking system usually only has two lines coming out the master cylinder. One line goes to the RR and LF wheel, while the other line goes to the LR and RF wheel. It was designed and intended to have steady front and rear braking (on opposite sides) incase you have a major catastrophe brake fluid lose on either line.
Since our Max has 4 brake line coming out the master cylinder I don't think we have the diagonal/split system. Even if you have a diagonal/split brake system the industry standard way of bleeding the lines would work.
Now that I've said all that, don't quote me on anything because I'm going way back to high school days and it may not be all accurate.
MIKE
#12
[QUOTE=MrGone]I've never seen a 3rd gen with an SE badge.
All New Zealand Maximas had badging on the trunk lid above right side taillight. They had a 3.0i badge followed by the models particular trim level, which for NZ maximas was S, SL, SE and SEL. S=entry model, SEL=top level trim. My cardomain profile has a good pic of rear badging.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/622570
Sorry about the slight post hijack....
All New Zealand Maximas had badging on the trunk lid above right side taillight. They had a 3.0i badge followed by the models particular trim level, which for NZ maximas was S, SL, SE and SEL. S=entry model, SEL=top level trim. My cardomain profile has a good pic of rear badging.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/622570
Sorry about the slight post hijack....
#13
[QUOTE=stevesmax]
I like the front grill a lot. Is there anyway to get a grill like that in red?
Thanks again guys for all your help and info, Greatly appriciated
Originally Posted by MrGone
I've never seen a 3rd gen with an SE badge.
All New Zealand Maximas had badging on the trunk lid above right side taillight. They had a 3.0i badge followed by the models particular trim level, which for NZ maximas was S, SL, SE and SEL. S=entry model, SEL=top level trim. My cardomain profile has a good pic of rear badging.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/622570
Sorry about the slight post hijack....
All New Zealand Maximas had badging on the trunk lid above right side taillight. They had a 3.0i badge followed by the models particular trim level, which for NZ maximas was S, SL, SE and SEL. S=entry model, SEL=top level trim. My cardomain profile has a good pic of rear badging.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/622570
Sorry about the slight post hijack....
I like the front grill a lot. Is there anyway to get a grill like that in red?
Thanks again guys for all your help and info, Greatly appriciated
#14
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Definately that was not a OEM badge, someone stuck it to your rear.
The RR, LR, RF and LF method is a industry standard
The LR, RF, RR and LF is a diagonal method. Some hyd brake system are designed on a split (diagonal) braking system. Those type of braking system usually only has two lines coming out the master cylinder. One line goes to the RR and LF wheel, while the other line goes to the LR and RF wheel. It was designed and intended to have steady front and rear braking (on opposite sides) incase you have a major catastrophe brake fluid lose on either line.
Since our Max has 4 brake line coming out the master cylinder I don't think we have the diagonal/split system. Even if you have a diagonal/split brake system the industry standard way of bleeding the lines would work.
Now that I've said all that, don't quote me on anything because I'm going way back to high school days and it may not be all accurate.
MIKE
The RR, LR, RF and LF method is a industry standard
The LR, RF, RR and LF is a diagonal method. Some hyd brake system are designed on a split (diagonal) braking system. Those type of braking system usually only has two lines coming out the master cylinder. One line goes to the RR and LF wheel, while the other line goes to the LR and RF wheel. It was designed and intended to have steady front and rear braking (on opposite sides) incase you have a major catastrophe brake fluid lose on either line.
Since our Max has 4 brake line coming out the master cylinder I don't think we have the diagonal/split system. Even if you have a diagonal/split brake system the industry standard way of bleeding the lines would work.
Now that I've said all that, don't quote me on anything because I'm going way back to high school days and it may not be all accurate.
MIKE
I got the brake beeding sequence from the NAPA brake bleeding sequense book and it says to do it X. So that is how I did mine.
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