Right now I have the timing set at stock 15 BTDC. But right after I swapped the engine I didnt have a my timing light so I set the timing by ear. The car pulled really strong. I was able to break the tires loose very easily and the power was awsome. Then when I got the timing light I set it back and now it has much less power. It still has decent power but nowhere near what it was.

So how many of you have have the timing advanced and by how much? Does advancing it by 5 deg. make a huge differance? I know I will have to use premium but around here they dont sell 91 and the dif between 89 and 93 is like $.05 so I am running the 93 anyway.

Also could a bad O2 cause the power to be not up to par?

 

I had advanced my timing, I dont have a timing light, so I also did it by ear. I got a question to add tho...was wondering, when I did my advance I didn't notice ANY difference in power....and when I set it back, I still didn't see ANY difference in power more or less...but when I have my engine running and I rock the cam position sensor or whatever it is you adjust timing on VE the engine runs differently and you can hear it....I was thinking that since I noticed no difference at all when i advanced it or when I retarded it back that maybe my knock sensor is bad or maybe something else affecting timing?

 

you dont even really move the CPS a mm to get 5*, makes a noticeable difference.

In my car I can run 87 from Arco in it at 20* but it does pull the timing, the car doesn't pull nearly as hard.

 

mines advanced by how much im not sure but probobly around 25deg and the car pulls extremly strong although i know that this 40 degree weather is mostly the reason for that

my VE acts like a completely different engine in sub 50 degree weather compared to 80 plus degrees

 

yeah it does, its awesome

 

Dam, we're 10 cents difference between midgrade (89) and premium (93)

and a bad o2 sensor will cause the motor to not be up to par

 

NO No NO advanced timing for me 7psi for me = stock timing

 

OK I am trying to run a diagnostics to test the O2 sensor but I am having a problem doing it. On my '91 I didnt have to even turn the screw, I just watched the flashing lights to confirm that it was good.

On my '92 SE I tried to follow the directions in the manual and it says to turn the screw counterclockwise and watch the flashed and turn it back when the light flashes to the mode you want. In my case I want Mode 1. But when I turn it i get 5 slow red flashes and 5 fast red flashes. I tried turning it back after the first flash but it didnt work. What am I doing wrong?

 

5-5 means everything is OK. I did the same thing you did and thought I screwed up.

You can still have problems that aren't picked up by the ECU.

I don't have a timing light and I never asked Jeff what he set my timing at when he put in my JDM engine. I am assuming he just left it at the stock 15 degrees. MrGone and I advanced the timing in my old engine to 20 degrees and it seemed to be slightly stronger, but it was difficult to tell.

 

I set it to stock or as close as I could get it. I had to retime it as the CAS had to be changed. That was free of charge.

 

I got marks on my CPS witch i put with a timing gun 3 parellel lines for 15* and 1 for 20*~. advance timing will make u fail emissions or for me anyways my friend retarded it as much as possible without telling me on and ran the test and was less than half on all catergories. but yea 20* and 30* weather is nice except when I get on it in 1st from stop around 2500 itll make almost like a deep burp noise from the y-pipe area. think it might be a backfire. and my O2 hasn't worked in 2 yrs. bought 4 and code keeps coming and wires never match color to color from O2 clip to car.

 

My ve acts like its on steroids when cold weather hits. I guess thats the only good thing about winter.

 

wow! free of charge, what a deal

One day I am going to have to get a timing light. Either that or make Shawn drive down here and time it for me.

It has been somewhat cooler here lately, but I haven't really noticed that much of an increase. That must be because of my "warm air intake." Hey Jeff, how much for the rest of the CAI?

 

Hey my services are valuable!

Normal cheapo induction lights work but it's hard to get a good signal. The signal has to travel though the thick wiring wrap

PM me. I'll consider getting rid of it cheap since everyone wants the 2.5" Fleabay CAIs (mine is 3" )and seems to think hacking their sheetmetal is fun Plus I don't have to fab a mid pipe as you already have it. I forget what I charged for it so let me know.

 

so whats the 5mins it would take worth?

for me the hardest part is getting the light around the wrap. <3 the OTTO bar

Dont forget the fleabay is also aluminum where ours is what, 16gauge cold rolled steel?

 

I just got a old plug wire to jump from coil pack to the plug for the pick up on my gun and it works fine

 

Why would you even go through the trouble for that. Just clip the pick-up over the wires to the coil. It'll pick it up that way.

 

Me = $50 You = 50 cents


Yup.

Ours fit! hehe. Yup, our intakes are certainly beefy enough that's for sure. You even paint yours yet??

 

I have my timing advanced roughly 5* and my Max runs like a scalded dog (always wanted to say that little phrase - thanks, grandpa).

 

I think I'm gonna do mine flat black ala chris