I think my front axles need replacing. I'm hearing a popping/ticking sound coming from my left front wheel when I turn my wheels sharp at a very low speed.

Does anyone know if the axles are hard to replace? Or do I need to have any special tools to remove anything?

Thanks
Dave

 

well it's your drivers side which is the easier side so your off to a good start (sort of).
it's not too hard. buy yourself a new axle seal for the tranny. the drivers side always leaks through the seal so once you pull the drive shaft out you'll likley have torn the seal. it shouldn't take you more than two hours seeing as it will be the first time for you.

 

whats the name of this seal and any other seals i need besides the front left axle, to replace, the front left axle? is it the rear main seal?...part nunmber would be even better!

 

"output shaft seal" is what the aftermartket calls it and the part # depends on what tranny you have

 

IT,s easier and cheaper to do it your self, if you can get it from nissan dealer dont get them remaned . iteasy for someone to mess them up !!!! it happen to me by "PEP BOYS "...

 

When the steering wheel is turned quite a bit (like in a parking lot) you hear a crunk-crunk-crunk.

The upper strut bearing grease dries out which makes the bearing stiffer and more difficult to turn. When this happens, as you turn the steering wheel* the bearing does not move, but the front spring "winds up" until there is enough force to overcome the stiff bearing. Then you hear the crunk as the spring unwinds. The whole process repeats over as you turn the steering wheel.
*

Solution:


Remove the upper strut bearing, and REPLACE them ($25 each) with new ones. Repacking the grease is tricky, if you don't pick the correct grease, you will have the problem return in 8-12 months. (I did)

Here is a link to the procedure:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=128490

 

my chilton gives me...#KV38106700 for the left side oil seal, and says to install when replacing the axle....it doesn't say for what tranny its for or anything.

 

is this the one I want?
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=914&PTSet=A

 

Have fun with that axle bolt!!!!!...200 ft pnds..!!!! I got mine off with impact driver maxed!!!!

 

bump is this the seal i want?

 

hopefully you didnt put it back on w/ the impact.... thatll cause the ***** to get minor imperfections and not roll correct

 

that's definately the style of the seal, but I don't know becks # off hand to confirm the #.

 

what *****???

 

inside the joint there are *****.

 

if you don't have an impact wrench, then you can break the axle nut loose by putting the tire back on and use its friction to hold the hub still. it's a little more time consuming but works.

i would recommend getting nissan seals since you don't want to chance a poorly made seal. take your time putting the new axle in so you don't cut the new seal.

the passenger axle is a pain since the rear (of the three) bolt is difficult to reach. you'll need a flex wrench most likely.

good luck. it's really not that bad. also be sure to drain your tranny fluid first.

 

Okay. I replaced my front axle's and put new seals in. It was an easy job to do and had no problems. I follows the instructions to the "T" in a manual I have.

I seem to be experiencing some different problems now. While driving down the road the steering feels sloppy. I hold the steering wheel straight and feel the wheels moving back and forth. Any ideals.

Also, there seems to still be some popping in the right front when turning slow. It might be what BobbyR1972 was talking about.

Anyway, thanks very much for the info you guys posted.

 

is the axle all the way in? there should be a click when it goes in and also less than 2-3mm of space btw the axle and seal when you try to pull it out.

what model maxima are you installing b/c sometimes part stores give you a slightly shorter axle (wrong size) although their computer won't tell them that.

that's the only thing i can think of, and that's coming from personal experience.

 

as far as I know it is all the way in. It's a 93 w/ABS. I think the popping noise might be those front strut bearings. but I still don't understand the sloppyness of the steering.

I compared the old and new before replacing, and both looked the same.

 

I guess you need to finish the job and do wheel alignment ...

 

ok I went to my local stealership and the guy seemed like an idiot...I told him I had a VE auto without abs and with lsd and he looked at me like i didn't know wtf i was talking about....so he said what I wanted wasn't in stock and he ordered it, it was $9.
I was hoping Interautomar could confirm this part number for me:
{38342-80X00 SEAL-OIL, DIFFER} suppose to be the seal for the driver side on a ve auto without abs and with lsd....can someone confirm the guy ordered me the right seal?

 

bump....I looked on your part search sit you have linked in the stickies and I cant find the part number this guy had ordered for me, im worried im going to get the wrong seal for putting in my axle.anyone know how I can confirm this part number for the seal I need? Thanks

 

I wish I could help, but without access to nissans books I'm kinda useless for that part.

 

NP thanks for all previous help anyway bro. I guess Ill just hope this guy knows what I want...I showed him the part number for the right seal in national#710397 and the mother****er didn't even look at it......so if its wrong, someone is getting there *** chewed out the stealership

 

I need to finish replacing my passenger axle, the three rear bolts came out but the axle is rusted tight in the housing the bolts were in. Any Ideas on how to get it out? Its a 90 vg auto.

 

first, apply generous amounts of PB blaster on the seam between the axle bearing's fitting and the bracket itself multiple times a day and just keep it soaking. then when you get home....

take the biggest, thickest, heaviest screwdriver you can get ahold of, and a hammer. the ring thing has those 3 little nubs where the bolts went through on the axle itself (so... that should be the side away from the engine), and try and position the screwdriver in such a way to put some spin on the little nub when you smack the screwdriver with a hammer. it's gonna be a ***** to spin, but keep at it, and eventually you should have abouta half inch of nub clear of the matching nub on the axle bracket. once you do, reposition the screwdriver to place force driving the axle directly out of that bracket, by hitting the nub on the previously-unexposed surface. it can take 5 minutes (my parts car)... it can take an hour (my GXE this most recent time). just keep at it until you get it out. and when you put it back in, line that ring with some anti-seize.

 

thanks.