mike92

Thermostat Issue,

Some months ago the thermostat didn’t open and it blew my radiator. I removed the thermostat and replaced the radiator. Lately, it is getting to long to warm up in the cold mornings, so I bought a thermostat and have it installed. When I tested it the first time, I assume it didn’t open because the temp went slightly above the middle and the fan had to use the faster mode, (the temp never goes above the middle). So I turned off the car before it was too hot. I have a VG, is there any special procedure to install the thermostat, besides what comes on the Chilton’s.???
My car never uses the fan’s second speed.

Scope

iTrader: (5)

Did you check you coolant level first? What water coolant mixture are you using and is you heater core good? Why replace the t-stat and radiator again if just replaced them?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

did you position the jiggle valve to the 12 o'clock position?

mike92

I followed the Chilton’s instructions, so the coolant level is correct, and I am using Nissan coolant (the one for direct usage). I replaced the radiator once, and removed the t-stat (just removed not replaced), I used the car without a t-stat (I live in Mexico by now). But when I drive on the highway the car colds down, and at mornings it gets too long to warm up, so I decided to add a t-stat, which was not present because I removed it when I replaced the radiator. The issue now is I believe it is not opening because the car temp goes above the middle, which never happened before (just when the radiator blew). But the t-stat is new... Any hint???

mike92

Yes I did.

alpicone

Did you open the bleeder valve when you refilled the system? If there is air in there the car will overheat.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

He has a VG, so that means the heater core has air in it. I remmember an old post were the front of the car has to be raised really high so that the air can leave the heater core. then finish bleeding the system.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Also whenever buying a thermostate to get a 'failsafe' one. The original should have been a failsafe. This is a part that no one should cheap-out on.
Also your radiator may have a bad 'cap' that did not open when your car overheated, so replacing the cap is apart of a cooling system tune-up.

mike92

You are right, I opened the valve and the air went out. Everything is normal again. I did not have to raise the vehicle, just opened the valve and that was it.

Thanks to all of you guys.

Foufyter

Where is the bleeder valve.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

VG motors: 10mm bolt on top of the intake manifold. in front of the PCV valve

Foufyter

i know this sounds dumb with the exact loc that you gave me but you got a pick of it. Looseing my mind trying to find it im sure if it was a snake id be dead by now. from multiple bites...

maximagxe90

Hi,

the bleeder valve is on top of the intake plenum on the back right across from the pcv valve,



do you see that red circle,

that the bleeder valve for your engine,

Foufyter

thanks for the pic, went to a huge hill 70% incline and (while running not recomended i know proceded to bleed off the car. Heat worked wonderfully on the hill. how long does it take to bleed off the system as to eliminate the over heating issue. as soon as i left the hill heat went back to being cold and car proceded to overheat again but a ton of air was removed. any idea other than parking on the hill and letting father time weep the air out of the system to get it blead off. really need to solve this issue. any imput (other than questioning my logic on bleeding it off while running would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Wiking

Air comes out while driving with a leak. Produce a tiny leak [loosen a clamp?, bleeder valve] on the highest coolant point and drive one hour, while keeping coolant level adequate. Typically necessary; in two vehicles I had it was the only possibility.

Foufyter

thanks jacked her up and ran for an hour with the bleed valve cracked open and now heat works fine and - overheating

Wiking

Its good if that worked while stationary. In those my serious ones, I had to have revs above 2000 (so I drove around). I now think that this longer bleeding takes all the real small bubbles from the coolant out that tend to form gasbubble blocks.

House central water heatings have automatic bleeders, so why not cars. I quess it would save a lot of gaskets? But that would be bad for business...

Btw. My temp gauge needle also goes never up the half. Still its hot inside in -10F. Maxima is a warm car, which is atypical to japanese cars.