wait i dont wanna be bald.... neway im still having a problem with my ve. lately she is a BEAST when the engine temp is cold, i mean in second gear on dry pavment with good tires i can break those tires loose with a throttle blip after she gets warm power still going down the tubes... also still have that stupid engine tick and for the nubes please dont tell me its vtc's i rebuild them this is a valve tick. my question is if my cams were not reground to nissan specs would that make this thing tick ? i just dont understand why its ticking....ive got good oil pressure, new valve seals, 3 angle valve job done, maybe the cam wasnt seated properly ? my mechanic tells me theres nothing you can do but i think he is just too lazy to get into it. also the loss of power when warm boggles me. NEW knock sensor installed only a few months old and computer throws no codes as per CONSULT. (not the ghetto light blinking way) i have a buddy at nissan and he is stumped as well but he has only worked there about a year b4 this he worked for vdub. throw me some ideas i really dont want to just start replacing things till i find it. coil packs maybe ? a few have hairline cracks but they have electrical tape securely around them to prevent voltage leak....:::big sigh::::im at a loss here

 

have you tried the O2 sensor, it would not be the coils cuz that would cause power loss at any temp, or maybe but probly not it could be temp sensor that runs to the computer, my car is the same way but i havent replaced the knock sensor yet but will after i get done rebuilding the 5-speed tranny

 

It sounds like heat soak....i havent had any experience with this but maybe engine temps are a little high?

 

replace the sub harness for knock sensor too or just the knock sensor??

 

are all the chain tensioners good?
Valve lash all set to spec?
you running 5w30 ?
I'm running out of ideas , too depressed about my car

 

I second that, knock sensor harnesses

 

Guessing:

You have two problems, 1. tick(always) and 2. powerloss(warm)

1. VAlve lifter does not ask when, it just... I would use the cleaner stuff before surgery.

2. Engine bay or computer?
- VG30E has that power valve for intake which works only warm. Howabout your engine, does it work...
- Electronic connectors build always oxidation, worse when warm. Clean all conn. pins to/from ECU with white cardboard. Now on cold wather your cabin heater is on full, also now warms ECU...
- Spray cool ECU & suspect warm-faulty components with electronics cooler spray to pinpoint the possible fault.

 

I have had the VTC ticking for a while now and decided this weekend to do what one of the posts from NZ mentioned, pull the VTC actuators. (The Hexagonal solenoids sticking out of the intake manifold.) I soaked them in Seafoam and tried them out by connecting them to the battery. They seemed to move better after cleaning, but the big surprise was the corrosion in the connections. The rubber boots and connectors were very brittle so be careful, but I spent about a half hour cleaning the contacts for the VTC actuators and I put new "O" rings on them. I also put contact grease on the connections to protect them. This didn't eliminate the ticking, but made it better, and the low end power really improved. I don't think the actuators were working at all before this. The car used to hesitate and die starting off and now it's noticeably better. Hope this helps.

 

Yeah, I chopped off the factory VTC connectors and installed my own. I'm still looking for gold plated push terminals that are small enough. The other option is to solder them on directly, but I'm a bit worried that it might ruin a contact inside the solenoid.


Maxima-4DSC, I replaced the upper timming chain tensioners when I rebuilt the VTC's. I knew the tensioners were bad since I had a low rpm tick that went away when I gave the engine just a little gas. I knew it wasn't oil pressure since I had tested it a while back and it was very good.

 

both my upper tensioners have been replaced..
never thought the heat on the ecu would kill the power..
just the knock sensor was done not the subharness maybe thats it ?..
valve lash..humm i cant say weather it was or not..neway to check it ??

now to add to all things a rock hit my windshield last night and split it down the middle horozontally...think i spelt that wrong..all well

 

Those are the areas I'd look at, they may have done a valve job, but that is to say nothing about the rest of the system.

 

OMFG, your kidding me right?



Originally Posted by internetautomar
Valve lash all set to spec?
you running 5w30 ?

 

Checking your KS and subharness is very easy. Just use an ohm meter at the subharness and check each terminal (going to the KS) to ground (battery negative). Resistance should be around 0.5 Meg Ohms (500,000 Ohms). When mine was bad it read 5 Meg Ohms (5,000,000).

 

:huh: kidding about what?
always start with the basics.

 

We have self-adjusting hydraulic lash adjusters. Never any kind of adjustment required.

 

when you have them first installed there is a first set that must be done correctly.
but it is set it and forget it in theory

 

cool, ill check it out i nkow the sensor is good its new from nissan but the subharness might be bad....ill check right now