Very Strong Gas Smell
12-21-2004, 03:13 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Very Strong Gas Smell
It's very cold here in NY right now. Just started my Max after it freezing out in the open for a day or so. Heard some weird noise at crank, but doesn't really matter right now. After warming up the engine, I drove for about 5 minutes and decided to put the heat on. The heat comes on and everything feels okay. About 2 minutes go by, and the most strongest smell of gas I have ever felt starts blowin right into my face from the vents. I was like WTF!? Not another problem. This is why I hate starting the car in cold weather like this. A new problem everytime. If I didn't need the car in the mornings, I wouldn't even use it when its cold. Anyway, I put the heat off and 10 minutes later, put it back on again. No gas smell for 5 minutes or so, then it comes again. I turn it off, and back on again. The gas smell goes away then comes back. Finally the last time I tried it, the smell went away for like 20 minutes till I got to my destination. Anybody have a similar a problem? Thanks. 
12-21-2004, 05:14 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Vadim-93GXE
Hm.. Internal air circulation? Thats done by flipping that switch downwards next to the A/C button, correct?
but the button he's talking about has a picture of a car on it with a "C" looking thing in the middle of the car.
12-21-2004, 05:23 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by internetautomar
that lever should be down in the winter period.
but the button he's talking about has a picture of a car on it with a "C" looking thing in the middle of the car.
but the button he's talking about has a picture of a car on it with a "C" looking thing in the middle of the car.
12-21-2004, 05:24 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 445
When you start the car check to see if your fuel rails are leaking and use your nose to find the source of the smell.
My fuel rails were leaking and I just fixed them, but the smell would stop after about 10 min. Unless of course you have a big leak.
Check this thread. LINK
My fuel rails were leaking and I just fixed them, but the smell would stop after about 10 min. Unless of course you have a big leak.
Check this thread. LINK
12-21-2004, 05:42 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by alpicone
When you start the car check to see if your fuel rails are leaking and use your nose to find the source of the smell.
My fuel rails were leaking and I just fixed them, but the smell would stop after about 10 min. Unless of course you have a big leak.
Check this thread. LINK
My fuel rails were leaking and I just fixed them, but the smell would stop after about 10 min. Unless of course you have a big leak.
Check this thread. LINK
12-21-2004, 07:40 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Vadim-93GXE
Oh I know that button. What does that do? Just send heat through all the vents of the car?
12-21-2004, 08:47 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nashville
Posts: 27
fuel smell
***I just posted this on another thread, so I'm cutting and pasting it again.***
That's a problem that plagued my car when I first bought it 4 years ago.
What's happening is the rubber fuel lines that attach to your fuel rails are worn and cracked. When it's cold out, of course they expand. When you start your car, your fuel pump starts building pressure on the injectors the second your ingnition hits. With cold, expapanded, and worn-out fuel lines under tremendous pressure, they begin to leak raw fuel till the engine warms-up and causes the fuel lines to contract again.
My car went into the dealer about 4 times before he finally got the dumb thing fixed. I can't remember the cost, but I want to say it was close to $400 becuase they have to take the intake plenum off to get to the fuel rails. It's a bad design if you ask me. Those rubber lines are directly above the scortching hot headers.
That's a problem that plagued my car when I first bought it 4 years ago.
What's happening is the rubber fuel lines that attach to your fuel rails are worn and cracked. When it's cold out, of course they expand. When you start your car, your fuel pump starts building pressure on the injectors the second your ingnition hits. With cold, expapanded, and worn-out fuel lines under tremendous pressure, they begin to leak raw fuel till the engine warms-up and causes the fuel lines to contract again.
My car went into the dealer about 4 times before he finally got the dumb thing fixed. I can't remember the cost, but I want to say it was close to $400 becuase they have to take the intake plenum off to get to the fuel rails. It's a bad design if you ask me. Those rubber lines are directly above the scortching hot headers.
12-21-2004, 08:54 AM
#10
*** and since you posted this again I will correct you again***
When did you take thermodynamics?? Only molecules like water expand at freezing temps. Things expand at high temp, and contract at low temp... The cracks develop as a result of this expansion/then contraction routine and age of the rubber lines. Just switch the process in your mind GO_VOLS!
Brian
When did you take thermodynamics?? Only molecules like water expand at freezing temps. Things expand at high temp, and contract at low temp... The cracks develop as a result of this expansion/then contraction routine and age of the rubber lines. Just switch the process in your mind GO_VOLS!
Brian
12-21-2004, 09:00 AM
#11
Originally Posted by GO_VOLS!
***I just posted this on another thread, so I'm cutting and pasting it again.***
That's a problem that plagued my car when I first bought it 4 years ago.
What's happening is the rubber fuel lines that attach to your fuel rails are worn and cracked. When it's cold out, of course they contract. When you start your car, your fuel pump starts building pressure on the injectors the second your ingnition hits. With cold, contracted, and worn-out fuel lines under tremendous pressure, they begin to leak raw fuel till the engine warms-up and causes the fuel lines to expand again.
That's a problem that plagued my car when I first bought it 4 years ago.
What's happening is the rubber fuel lines that attach to your fuel rails are worn and cracked. When it's cold out, of course they contract. When you start your car, your fuel pump starts building pressure on the injectors the second your ingnition hits. With cold, contracted, and worn-out fuel lines under tremendous pressure, they begin to leak raw fuel till the engine warms-up and causes the fuel lines to expand again.
all fixed
Danka
12-21-2004, 11:06 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 445
Originally Posted by GO_VOLS!
My car went into the dealer about 4 times before he finally got the dumb thing fixed. I can't remember the cost, but I want to say it was close to $400 becuase they have to take the intake plenum off to get to the fuel rails. It's a bad design if you ask me. Those rubber lines are directly above the scortching hot headers.
Getting a Titan.
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