Wire to use for replacing audio
#1
Wire to use for replacing audio
Being its the holidays, I decided to treat myself and replace my old head unit with a new one.
Is there any particular type of wire to spec?(Shielded?)
With regard to the path of the new wires.
Any hints on a not to get too frozen approach to running the wires efficiently?
(I dont have a garage).
Is there any particular type of wire to spec?(Shielded?)
With regard to the path of the new wires.
Any hints on a not to get too frozen approach to running the wires efficiently?
(I dont have a garage).
#2
are you just replacing the head unit or are you running all new system wire? Also an idea for a place to work on it - do you have any do it yourself car washes around you? I live in jersey and we have a bunch. my friend and i have spent many a night workin on a system in one of those. they may b open on both ends but if the wind is blowin the opposite way its actually kinda warm.
#3
CoooooL Idea....
probably works well on a rainy day too!
Regarding the audio.
Your question is the primary one on my mind.
Usually I would pull the seats and fish the wires under the rug,
but I hate the cold!. Besides, I can always cleanup my job when
the weather permits.
But I am not sure on the simplest install solution.
Why is it not so simple, it was a Bose config.
I was going to run channel pairs from head unit to
rear and to front speakers, bypass the amp connection for the time being.
Also planning to bypass the power sent to relay and bose amps. As for
the cabling, Thought I remembered seeing shielded wire beyond the head unit.
probably works well on a rainy day too!
Regarding the audio.
Your question is the primary one on my mind.
Usually I would pull the seats and fish the wires under the rug,
but I hate the cold!. Besides, I can always cleanup my job when
the weather permits.
But I am not sure on the simplest install solution.
Why is it not so simple, it was a Bose config.
I was going to run channel pairs from head unit to
rear and to front speakers, bypass the amp connection for the time being.
Also planning to bypass the power sent to relay and bose amps. As for
the cabling, Thought I remembered seeing shielded wire beyond the head unit.
#4
It sounds like you shouldn't have a problem with your install, but if you do need help with the wiring, http://www.installdr.com has wiring color codes for almost any vehicle. As far as using shielded wires, I just used regular wire on mine and haven't had any problems. Nothing back there moves much or gets very hot, so you shouldn't really need to use shielded wire. You should be able to get by without running all-new speaker wire, just bypassing the amps. I replaced the speakers along with the head unit, though, so I couldn't tell you how well the stock ones will work set up that way. Good luck.
#5
I dont think you really need to run new wires. Just reuse stock ones. Check out my page for some info about doing that for bose or non-bose
if you really want to run new wires (going into the doors is a pain), just use some 14AWG speaker wire and that'll be more than enough current capability. You can get it at Radio Shack or any auto parts store.
if you really want to run new wires (going into the doors is a pain), just use some 14AWG speaker wire and that'll be more than enough current capability. You can get it at Radio Shack or any auto parts store.
#8
Originally Posted by cole_grant
Craig's work is never done, is it? Congrats on Maxima of the Month, well deserved.
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