new rear brake pads won't go on
new rear brake pads won't go on
I was able to take off the older rear brake pads, the newer ones goes on fine but the caliper wouldn't sit on. Anyone got a suggestions other than sanding down the pads? I'd tried using the same methods as I did my front pads swap by using a c clamp and compress the rear caliper so the piston opens up but it wouldn't. I am still about 5mm short on my pads before the caliper could go over.
DO NOT COMPRESS THE REAR CALIPER
I guess you didn't see it in the autozone link in the FAQs, but you are supposed to twist the rear piston to retract it. You may have damaged the theads if you forced it in too much with the clamp. They sell a special tool at Pepboys or wherever for $10 that will fit in the grooves and let you twist the calipers using a standard 3/8" drive. Or you can do it with needle nose pliers, but be careful
I guess you didn't see it in the autozone link in the FAQs, but you are supposed to twist the rear piston to retract it. You may have damaged the theads if you forced it in too much with the clamp. They sell a special tool at Pepboys or wherever for $10 that will fit in the grooves and let you twist the calipers using a standard 3/8" drive. Or you can do it with needle nose pliers, but be careful
arggg damn it, I've already compressed it. I think it's still working cuz I'd saw some left over brake pad tracks. Oh well. Thanks for tip, Griag. I'll go look for it next time then. Would you happened to know what is the name of that tool you're talking about?
um, I think it's called something clever like 'rear brake piston compressor tool' 
this is the one I have

it has 6 different sides (obviously) with different size and spacing for the two nubs
put that on a 3/8" drive extension and twist it to compress the piston (I think clockwise). Be careful not to damage the boot that surrounds the piston.
There are other tools that work similarly but that's what I have. If you ask someone at a parts store, they should know what you're talking about because almost all imports with rear discs are like this.
CRAIG (not Griag)

this is the one I have

it has 6 different sides (obviously) with different size and spacing for the two nubs
put that on a 3/8" drive extension and twist it to compress the piston (I think clockwise). Be careful not to damage the boot that surrounds the piston.
There are other tools that work similarly but that's what I have. If you ask someone at a parts store, they should know what you're talking about because almost all imports with rear discs are like this.
CRAIG (not Griag)
You did not feel any strong resistance when Forcing the caliper down?Dont feel bad I did not know about the Screw down back caliper either, but I do have a GXE (Rear drum brakes).
I feel you though, I think I would have made the same mistake.
Argh! I've been trying to find one of those widgets for a decent price for a while... I sure wish I had one last week when I was struggling with pliers. The thing was surprisingly hard to turn.
I'm going to keep looking for that thing!
Another thing, bvtran, try to line up the pin on the new brake pad with one of the notches in the piston, so if you do this or do it in the future you have to try to make sure a notch is right where that goes. Might seem obvious, but you never know.
I'm going to keep looking for that thing!
Another thing, bvtran, try to line up the pin on the new brake pad with one of the notches in the piston, so if you do this or do it in the future you have to try to make sure a notch is right where that goes. Might seem obvious, but you never know.
I used a kit from autozone that had discs with little pegs to go into the piston slots. That cube looks like it would be easier to use though. One question though, how hard should it be to turn the piston? My passenger side was really hard, there is no way I could do it with pliers.
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