AzEnder

Well I drive my car daily to and from work (about 20 miles). The other day I drove to the store to get some hardware. When I started the car it started running to dog crap (rough idle, no power). I first assumed it was a miss due to the ignition system. I am used to older carb cars. Well I really didnt want to tear into it so I took it to a mech down the street for diagnostics.

He wants $450 to change one freaking fuel injector. Just for the injector he wanted $216, I found them online for $90. So I immediately don't trust this guy! I picked up the car and tried the "Injector Service" joke to no avail.

This car is a '92 30VE, no mods, 80k. Could my injectors be crapping out this early? Did this bastard down the street just swindle me out of $65 bucks!? He had my car hooked up to a pretty serious looking machine. Should I ask him for a print out or notes or something? Would they mean anything to me?

I think I am going to have to change the injector and from what I have read it is best to change them all. No lingering doubts that way. If I am going to toss $540 just in parts at this and half my day to do this, is there anything else I should consider? Any sweet tweaks I should think about while I am in there?

I guess the big question before I begin is, do I trust this diagnosis and buy the parts or keep looking for a different issue?

Thanks for any input!

AzEnder

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

injectors are a very real possibility of being bad.
first find out which injector is bad. if its one of the front ones then just replace that one.
if it's the rear then do all 3 rears, because it's a pain to pull that plenum more than once.
also make sure you only use new injectors.

AzEnder

I didn't realize I could change the front with removing the plenum? Also did you get my email?

AzEnder

Wiking

Any input here: As u said, do not trust... My injectors are original 80k on them, running excellent. But of course they can break at 10k...

Maxima is full of electronics, myriad reasons for rough engine. First test all sensors, it is under one hour job. Then go through all wiring connectors, and do add groundings as old cars have oxidation between seemingly well connected parts, all problems might be just oxidation. Go through my solved problem sea at: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

After those mods and tuneup, its now purring pwr. Used to belch blk smoke, after TPS repair started to run better, but it was only one part of the story...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

got your e-mail, according to your profile you have a VE motor.
the front 3 are readily doable without pulling the manifold.
it took my mechanic a total of 30 minutes to do my front center one. That includes the time to drive the car in and out of the bay, and a little bit of time screing around

AzEnder

The mech told me that the injector is #6, does that corrulate with the cylinder? If it is that means it is on the front side, yeepee! Now when I was looking at the front side it did not look easy or possible to get the injector out without removing the plenum.

AzEnder

It seems like the most simple ways to diagnose something is always the last. I know it is my injector now and how do I know. Well it is simple first I pulled the plug wire for that cylinder and there was no change in the way the car ran. I pulled all the others individually to confirm this. Then I pulled the injector plug on the same cyl. while the plug wire was in and out and still no change.

Now my question to you internetmart is, how on earth did your mech change a front injector without removing the plenum in thirty min.? Unless I am not looking at the same car or I am not looking at the injector, then you mech most have the new star trek tools that everyone is talking about.



AzEnder

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if you have a VE try swapping coils to confirm the injector problem.
I have some very good and very motivated mechanics work on my car
it was 5:30 and he goes home at 6

Magnifico

wow so he wanted 450 to change a front injector? what a piece of ****