I just got a new tps to see if it will fix my problem with clunking into drive.

do i need to disconnect the batt. and let the ecu reset before use?

I just installed it and the check engine light is on.

Edit: after the install nothing changed, it actually made the clunk worse. i reinstalled my old tps and it returned to normal. i don't think my old tps was bad

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I only know that you are going to need to use the new cover sheets for the TPS reports.



AzEnder

Seriously though I don't know what a TPS. A clunk when you put it into drive? That could mean bad cv joints or maybe time to change the tranny fluid.

 

Chiltons Maintenance Manual Online that has some info, this is here in the stickies:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui...&Parameters=004

TPS zero pos sw has to be adjusted, will not just snap in.

I have repaired my TPS:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6

All sensors have to be tested, not just TPS. Check connectors for oxidation, especially groundings and all vacuum tube ends checked for brittle. See through my homepage for DIY.

 

how do you adjust it? my haynes manual doesn't go into this very well.

 

Is there one info what haynes explains adequately????

Thats why I 'exploded' my TPS and repaired it. Just to figure out how things go...

Loosen the att screws, rotate and measure simultaneously the zero pos sw from the switch connector. It should just make contact as gas is off.

Some say that on auto tranny it should switch at 1000rpm. Dunno, works like that on my VG30E.

 

what pins do you put the neg on and what pins do you put the pos on when you are testing the TPS.....and key has to be in on(not running) position right?

 

its deffinetlt the CV joints, that happened to my maxima around 155,000 miles and i replaced them myself, if you do it your self you could save yourself like 600 bucks, i think to get refurbed CV joints go to a CAP or autozone, and you can trade in your old one for new ones and get a discount, be careful ehrn you do it cuz tranny fluid goes everywhere when you remove the joints

 

See my web site for TPS to dig how it works. Or stickies here. Or online manual.

Zero sw: Engine off, multimeter on ohms scale, stick into switch connector. Try which ones, three pins... See my webpage for details.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6

Anyways, there has to be between two pins contact when throttle is closed, and it has to open when throttle begins to open...

The other sw works at 2/3 gas.

 

i already replaced the cv's last year, so i don't think that is the problem.

i replaced all of the motor mounts also.

but there is one vacume line that has not been connected for almost a year that has not caused any problems, maybe this has a little to do with it.



i got a new tps from autozone, and when i installed it this time the engine light didn't come on, but it didn't fix my problem, so i think the problem is in the tranny. (i just had it rebuilt about 2 months ago). im gonna take it back to the tranny place soon but have been putting it off because it's an hour drive.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. i will let you guys know how it goes.

 

you checked all your motor and tranny mounts? I had my tranny rebuilt when I put my JDM motor in. It did the same thing you are talking about. When it was put in drive from park or neutral it would make a big clunk and jerk the car a lil bit. I had a bad motor mount...maybe one of your tranny mounts is bad?

 

the mounts i just replaced about a month ago.

 

That intake vacuum port is for fuel press regulator. No good idle if thats missing... Take a piece of tube and make the connection.

 

Ok I was testing my TPS yesterday. and heres what happened.
I connected it to the proper pins, using a volt/ohmeter. and at idle It was continously moving around between 9v and like 2.5 volts, it would hit 4.5v a few times. and then as soon as I did WOT it went down to 0.
Do you use different pins to check the idle of TPS? or is my tps going bad. The only thing I can think of wrong with my car, is it could get better gas mileage. I get like 14-15mpg city(not tooo bad) If my TPS is malfunctioning at idle, would i be able to notice my engine running different? and would it be a reason of burning a lil extra fuel? My engine idles up fine and never seems to have any problems. but I could use that extra 1-4mpg city.
Also I was testing my knock sensor at the harness. I got 547-550, IIRC its suppose to be at 560? is my knock sensor also maybe a cause of the me losing a little bit of gas?

 

TPS should be measured engine off or from disconnected pins, just as the manual says.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6

Knock is ok as far as resistance goes.

Clean all (=all) connectors, groundings.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14

 

my idle is now about 700 rpm at idle, after reconnecting that vacume line. but it sputters a bit.

Should i do an ecu reset? would that help?

 

Do reset. Will not harm.

Have u now tested all sensors with multimeter?

At least u have not cleaned all grounds, u injector gnd looks terrible.

Clean idle assy, check all ctrl tubings (all=ALL) for brittle, clean connecotrs, grounds, add more ground wires.

Please read my site through, been 'there with ya' with intermittent blk smoke sputter. Now purrs pwr!

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

 

I did test it like that....not sure if I had the voltmeter on the right setting or what....but I couldn't get it to sit still on a reading at closed throttle...BUT at WOT I could get it to stay at 0.....is my TPS bad? I pretty much have it adjusted all the way one way....its on a VE btw...

 

VE has different reading on the potentiometer (was it 0-5k?). Linearity is the keyword here...

--->The switches must be the 'same'.

There has to be constant connection on two pins as throttle is closed. Otherwise your switch is bad, or it needs adjustment (rotate a bit).

As u open, that switch has to open. Must.

Open up to full throttle.

Somewhere between 1/3 thorottle and 2/3, the other sw has to make contact, stay that way to full throtle. Otherwise your switch is bad, or it needs adjustment (rotate a bit)

...if not, repair or buy new which may be DOA).

 

where does that jose end? notice how my max doesn't have that bracket with the two screws connecting to the manifold. thats kind of weird.

 

where does that jose end? notice how my max doesn't have that bracket with the two screws connecting to the manifold. thats kind of weird.

 

As I already stated: "That intake vacuum port is for fuel press regulator."

---tube goes to fuel press regulator, which is in the end of the metallic -fuel rail. Tube lenght is somewhere little over 2".

Without tube u have two things: idle too lean, fuel pressure does not follow rpm.

Support bracket: Well, every time u do some repair, 'million box' on the shelf grows...

 

Thanks for the help wiking. i finally figured it out, i feel like a dumbarse. Way back when my dad had the engine replaced, before the org, the guy was an a$$hole and didn't do a good job, probly didn't have that bracket to begin with. But i found my old vacum line, it was hiding in the shadows of the air box and tranny. reconnected and now it's running much better.

Still clunks into drive though.

 

Never mind feelings, an' be happy if u car clunks, better than silent... I could not first change distr contacts on my first ol' car...

Hard to say what the clunk is. Maybe too soft engine supports, exhaust pipe? Prop u engine agains the wall with some hard rubber piece... smtg between exhaust-chassis. Tell somebody 'to do the clunk' as u observe.

Any time I have a BIG problem, I'll go to Nissan dealer and as for quotation for repair. Once in lifetime might use it, but they diagnose the problem [if its simple to them] for free. Noise diag should be quite straightforward for a qualified quy who lives from the noises...

 

i wish i could post a video.