I mentioned the other day that I have a flexible polyurathane that I use to fill motor mounts. I have gotten quite a few PMs about the price/time/details etc of this filling so here is what you need to know.

I use a FLEXIBLE polyurathane that is rated at 94A on a durometer. It is a two part mix that creates a very thin liquid that easily pours and fills. Full cure is about 48 hours @72 degrees. Yes, it can be accerated with heat. While I cant calculate what kind of horsepower it could handle in a maxima, I can say I've made many of these for many other type of cars, up to 500hp. I will garantee you cant break these (with your engine of course) or I will replace it free.

Heres the cost break down

Either engine mount, just fill, $25 or both for $40
Either trans mount, just fill, $20 or both for $30

Of course I realize its not easy or convient for everyone to be without a motor mount for a week, so I can try and get some more cores (sale pending on my last set). I use UPS shipping and will supply you with a tracking number (Shipping will be $9 per mount). It takes me about 48hr to fill and ship the mounts back out, and UPS ground arrives within 3 days inside the US.

 

Since these are rather small, I would suggest using the new USPS (Postal Service) Priority Mail Flat Rate boxes, which cost $7.70 regardless of weight and are sent by plane, meaning they will usually arrive sooner than UPS Ground. You can add Delivery Confirmation for another $.45, bringing the total to $8.15. You can get the boxes for free and with the new Click-and-Ship service, they will pick up packages at your door. For more info, check out www.usps.com

If I can ever get to a junkyard and scrounge some motor mounts, I might be sending you some, but it probably won't be until the spring.

Good Luck,

Chris

 

You arent employed by the government are you.........? :-) Seriously thanks Chris, but I get this sales pitch atleast once a week, I already have a UPS account. I COULD do this USPS but since they are my competitor I will have to paint a "T" on the mounts to signify Traitor! Really I just said $9 to cover my butt, but I will live dangerously and say: $7 shipping per mount! Beat that USPS!

I also forgot to mention earlier that I do have access to a sandblaster and can remove any/all rust from these mounts and repaint them.

 

what about powder coating?
and who needs shipping anyways

 

I am a letter carrier, but I just recently found out about the Flat Rate boxes. The other day I sent three pistons from Oregon to Georgia for $7.70 (all six cost $15.40) and they got there in three days. Via regular Priority it would have been $40 and I think UPS Ground would have been about $25, plus the boxes were free. Normally, I send anything over about 6-7 lbs through UPS. I have a business myself and money is money...

Even at $7 per mount, that's $28 for all four. With a Flat Rate box you can cram them in one box and it is $7.70 for all four.

Don't worry, though. If I have you do some mounts for me, I won't hold it against you if you use UPS.

 

Ordered some flat rate boxes last night.
hopefully the control arm will fit in them.

 

I bunno on that one brian.. the boxes aren't that large.. one arm *might* fit in them, but it only costs me about $10 to ship a single control arm (w/o gusset) via UPS.

 

fedex is a bit cheaper than UPS, I've got every flat rate box they coming, because it'll be easier for some parts.

 

will the engine mounts make the car vibrate alot or will it atleast absorbe some shock i want some thing that wont make my kidneys bleed

 

I was under the impression that powder coating cast aluminum was a very bad idea

 

The mounts are cast aluminum? I always thought they were steel like suspension stuff....


BTW, since when have you been a Mod?

 

There is one cast aluminum mount. It's the rear tranny mount closest to the D-side axle. Ironicly enough, Shawn puffy's mount is busted.

 

You can powder coat aluminum, cast or not. Regardless, the engine mounts are mild steel, and powder coating them would be a waste of time IMHO.

This filling actualy wont make your maxima vibrate at all. Any inline 4 (which is natural imbalanced) while vibrate quite a bit more with these. Shifts are smoother, and clutch chatter is greatly reduced. I personaly havent noticed ANY disadvantages to filling my mounts on my maxima, but I cant wait to hear some of your opinions.

 

I know that it is physically possible, but IIRC it's like quenching, the cast aluminum (wheels for example) becomes brittle and is more likely to break/crack. I've heard of people powdercoating wheels and then when they hit a curb or bump hard enough the wheel seperates, really scarey stuff.

 

Ah ha that explains the rubbery substance on my wheels. I went to strip them and the top layer came off just fine (powder coating) but there is a really thick substance under that which would not come off with stripper. It appears to be rubbery and you can peal it off. Its super thick and I assumed it was powder primer but my cousin that does powder coating said it wasnt. He is stripping them for me and hopefully will have them soon.


sorry masssmail for the OT so on to the matter of filled mounts.

I have filled motor mounts that were done by someone. They made his car vibrate some (he assumed he had a slight miss) so I got them for my car when we did the swap (my mounts were shot). They do make my car vibrate slightly but not much and my motor is smooth as silk as far as idle goes. He may have used a harder compound though so that may be why...or it may be that my trans mounts are bad (only replaced motor). I honestly dont know but do know that the cost of brand new mounts are rather expensive and would rather buy the urethane ones than new ones.

 

If you have a core on hand right now pm me. All I need is a front mount. I will even supply you my old (beat-up) mount after I replace this one.

 

Now to review masssmail's mounts.
I got them in GREAT packaging. And indeed they were filled with poly. It took me and and a buddy 4 hours to put them in.

Did it by.
1. Disconnect the negative.
2. Lifting the front end with a hydro jack.
3. Support the engine by puting a jack under the oil pan with a piece of 2*4 bewtwean it.
4. Removed the 2 bolts that hold the mounts to the engine.
5. Remove the crossmember and swapped out the mounts, and put it back together.

Took 4 hours because my buddies blood sugar got low and we went on a mission to find some in a sugar free household.

The results were amazing. Smooth wheel spinning with NO wheel chatter, no clutch chatering on launching. Alot tighter on downshifting. Everything is tight in the front end. The ONLY side effect is a lil rumble feeling when starting up and turining off. As long as you have a smooth idle, there won't be any vibration. A little bit of cabin noise close to red lining, small price to pay.