i made a solid shifter mount
#1
i made a solid shifter mount
im sure some of you have had your rubber one crack in half well i did to and ive seen how some have fixed it perticularly mr gone with sheet metal but i went 1 step firther and removed the rubber insert and welded in 2 pieces of 3/16 plate with a 1/2 bolt for a permant fix and let me tell you i love the way it shifts. it feels exactly like driving my buddys mustang with an aftermarket shifter, very percise, firm, notchy shifts and i havnt missed a shift yet either so im praying this is a cure.
#2
I wondered about doing that. My only concern is that the engine has some movement(Mine doesn't MOVE at all wit poly mounts.) But I know in other cars if you have bad bushings it'll eat up the tranny. Will this cause any damage in the future?
#4
i've been thinking about doing that but don't have full urethane mounts yet. i also have a few other ideas for a much better shifter setup but the pattern might go screwy... could be fun though...
#5
i had this mod done, too. the rubber was cracked so badly that the shifter was about to fall onto the tailpipe. the new setup makes a world of difference. there is more road noise with mine, as the rubber acted as a sound-damper.
#8
think.
it's rubber for a reason. not only will you get extreme vibration (I dont care if you have ploy mounts), but your tranny will suffer greatly. That rubber bar allows for some slack in the linkage whereas the welded bar does not. Your shift forks will be riding up in the shift collars causing premature wear. I'd *higly* advise you to trash that and pay for a new one. It's 38 some odd bucks from COurtesy.
it's rubber for a reason. not only will you get extreme vibration (I dont care if you have ploy mounts), but your tranny will suffer greatly. That rubber bar allows for some slack in the linkage whereas the welded bar does not. Your shift forks will be riding up in the shift collars causing premature wear. I'd *higly* advise you to trash that and pay for a new one. It's 38 some odd bucks from COurtesy.
#9
Originally Posted by subs1000w
i also have filled mounts but there is a rubber bushing where the shifter rod bolts to the trans which will take up any excess movement
if it's so good at taking up excess movement, then why did Nissan put that rubber shift mount?
#11
i think they put the rubber there for 2 reasons
to minimize shifter vibration (my shifter does vibrate ever so slightly more now)
and to allow play for when the engine moves (since i have filled mounts my engine does not move more then an in. i was able to watch this on the dyno and it barly moved even with the spray)
i understand your reason for disliking the idea but ill take my chances because like i said i LOVE the way it feels
to minimize shifter vibration (my shifter does vibrate ever so slightly more now)
and to allow play for when the engine moves (since i have filled mounts my engine does not move more then an in. i was able to watch this on the dyno and it barly moved even with the spray)
i understand your reason for disliking the idea but ill take my chances because like i said i LOVE the way it feels
#14
Originally Posted by antonthegrey
Your shift forks will be riding up in the shift collars causing premature wear.
I dont really like notchy shifters though, but as long as it is precise then
#15
Really it only holds the stationary rod, not the actaul shifting rod. I donno whatto think.
Originally Posted by MrGone
Seeing as he is already on his 3rd tranny (iirc), and one of them he stripped the teeth off first gear, I dont think it will be much of a problem, as his 255whp/332tq (last time I checked) is doing a fine job at killing them.
I dont really like notchy shifters though, but as long as it is precise then
I dont really like notchy shifters though, but as long as it is precise then
#16
Originally Posted by therealgoon9
Really it only holds the stationary rod, not the actaul shifting rod. I donno whatto think.
#17
i'm keeping the setup as well. i like it. it is better than what i had before. besides, my days of hard-launching/street racing, the main factor for killing these piece of **** trannies anyway, are pretty much over, as i now have another car to abuse.
anton, your ideas are well spoken, btw.
anton, your ideas are well spoken, btw.
#18
I have alot of movment of the shifter going into a few gears, 2nd gear sounds like it grinds for a "very quick" split sec. (a small "Click" i can feel it too) but only when i shift at a normal speed (and not all the time, like 1 out of 5 shifts), if i shift slow as hell,into 2nd, no "click"
... does this mount sound like the problem in my situation? Im comming from a VG auto, and im new to this VE5 but I've been driving stick for a year.
- I'll have the car up on a lift this monday, all night. What are some things i should check for? will i be able to tell the mount is falty by just looking at it?
- I remember people wrapping this mount with tape (duct/electrical) and alot of zip ties, good idea for a temp fix? if someone can dig up thoes old pics that would help.
any advice will be great thanx..
cya
... does this mount sound like the problem in my situation? Im comming from a VG auto, and im new to this VE5 but I've been driving stick for a year.
- I'll have the car up on a lift this monday, all night. What are some things i should check for? will i be able to tell the mount is falty by just looking at it?
- I remember people wrapping this mount with tape (duct/electrical) and alot of zip ties, good idea for a temp fix? if someone can dig up thoes old pics that would help.
any advice will be great thanx..
cya
#19
I'm looking at the linkage AGAIN. I don't think there is ANY harm to the tranny. The rubber block in the holder bracket connects to the stationary link. Like i siad it doesn't move. The ONLY time it moves is when the engine jerks during hard acceleration and reverse. The stock rubber mounts, have big gaps in them so, they will actauly give a good 3/4 to an inch.
By making king it solid steel, rather than pulling on the rubber it now pulles on the holder bracket. The shifter linakage only moves when the stationry link moves.
There is no tear on the tranny. However I wouldn't do this with stock monts. Because of the movemnt, it could eat up the bushing on the staionary rod where it connects on the tranny. With the poly mounts I have I can feel NO MOVEMENT in the shifter, and visauly see no movement. So I might go ahead and do this also!
Unless someone proves me very wrong.
By making king it solid steel, rather than pulling on the rubber it now pulles on the holder bracket. The shifter linakage only moves when the stationry link moves.
There is no tear on the tranny. However I wouldn't do this with stock monts. Because of the movemnt, it could eat up the bushing on the staionary rod where it connects on the tranny. With the poly mounts I have I can feel NO MOVEMENT in the shifter, and visauly see no movement. So I might go ahead and do this also!
Unless someone proves me very wrong.
#23
i did the Dave B mod to mine..
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
i wouldnt trust a stiff plate like that which allows no slack, just think of where all the stress now goes when you get on and off the gas especially in a lower gear. What i did stiffens the shifter up a bit more but it still allows for some slack
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
i wouldnt trust a stiff plate like that which allows no slack, just think of where all the stress now goes when you get on and off the gas especially in a lower gear. What i did stiffens the shifter up a bit more but it still allows for some slack
#24
Originally Posted by Maximan190
i did the Dave B mod to mine..
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
[img]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/175000-175999/175745_395_full.jpg[img]
i wouldnt trust a stiff plate like that which allows no slack, just think of where all the stress now goes when you get on and off the gas especially in a lower gear. What i did stiffens the shifter up a bit more but it still allows for some slack
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=331517
[img]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/175000-175999/175745_395_full.jpg[img]
i wouldnt trust a stiff plate like that which allows no slack, just think of where all the stress now goes when you get on and off the gas especially in a lower gear. What i did stiffens the shifter up a bit more but it still allows for some slack
#25
Originally Posted by bonzelite
anton, your ideas are well spoken, btw.
thank you.
going to mechanics school and being a wrench for a year kinda helps.
seriously... it pains me to see what kids do to their rides these days.
...especially when I have to fix them *sigh* more money for me.
#26
Originally Posted by MrGone
I did it to Antons car a long time ago, used metal and some wierd bonding crap that didn't work well. All the same idea though.
oh, and we didn't let it set long enough at the correct temp. I have it holding my hammer together now... beating on some body panels doesn't budge it.
#27
Originally Posted by ChrisCheezer
I have alot of movment of the shifter going into a few gears, 2nd gear sounds like it grinds for a "very quick" split sec. (a small "Click" i can feel it too) but only when i shift at a normal speed (and not all the time, like 1 out of 5 shifts), if i shift slow as hell,into 2nd, no "click"
... does this mount sound like the problem in my situation? Im comming from a VG auto, and im new to this VE5 but I've been driving stick for a year.
- I'll have the car up on a lift this monday, all night. What are some things i should check for? will i be able to tell the mount is falty by just looking at it?
- I remember people wrapping this mount with tape (duct/electrical) and alot of zip ties, good idea for a temp fix? if someone can dig up thoes old pics that would help.
any advice will be great thanx..
cya
... does this mount sound like the problem in my situation? Im comming from a VG auto, and im new to this VE5 but I've been driving stick for a year.
- I'll have the car up on a lift this monday, all night. What are some things i should check for? will i be able to tell the mount is falty by just looking at it?
- I remember people wrapping this mount with tape (duct/electrical) and alot of zip ties, good idea for a temp fix? if someone can dig up thoes old pics that would help.
any advice will be great thanx..
cya
You wont be able to see this bar as it's on top of the catalytic converter and heat shielding (from under the car. From in-car, just take off the shift boot and dust boot to see it. Throw in some hi-temp grease while you're in there.
#28
Originally Posted by MrGone
I dont really like notchy shifters though, but as long as it is precise then
#29
Originally Posted by antonthegrey
then you won't like a T56 (or T5 for that matter) in your mustang. It's like a goddamed seven-way toggle switch
my buddys 87 supra on the other hand has an @ss load of play in each gear but i think its just the stock wornout shifter, but i hate it
#30
Originally Posted by antonthegrey
then you won't like a T56 (or T5 for that matter) in your mustang. It's like a goddamed seven-way toggle switch
Someday I'd like to get the stillen, but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$4
#31
you should try having a ****ty junk yard tranny that isn't as good as they said it was and come to find out one of the holes for the bolt that holds the stationary bar are stripped so every once in a while the bolt comes out making it loose making every single gear feel like you're fighting the syncros.... i hate it.
#32
Originally Posted by antonthegrey
The grinding going into gears is the clutchs fault 99% of the time.
You wont be able to see this bar as it's on top of the catalytic converter and heat shielding (from under the car. From in-car, just take off the shift boot and dust boot to see it. Throw in some hi-temp grease while you're in there.
You wont be able to see this bar as it's on top of the catalytic converter and heat shielding (from under the car. From in-car, just take off the shift boot and dust boot to see it. Throw in some hi-temp grease while you're in there.
what the clutch doing that making the grind.
#34
Originally Posted by ChrisCheezer
what do you mean the clutchs falt? its a new clutch. i don't understand.
what the clutch doing that making the grind.
what the clutch doing that making the grind.
#35
Originally Posted by ChrisCheezer
what do you mean the clutchs falt? its a new clutch. i don't understand.
what the clutch doing that making the grind.
what the clutch doing that making the grind.
you said you have movement in the actual shifter. the rubber in there is probably crumbled to bits, as was mine. my shifter was nearly about to fall into the street like fred flinstone's open-bottomed car.
#37
Originally Posted by mtcookson
you should try having a ****ty junk yard tranny that isn't as good as they said it was and come to find out one of the holes for the bolt that holds the stationary bar are stripped so every once in a while the bolt comes out making it loose making every single gear feel like you're fighting the syncros.... i hate it.
#38
mine grinds when shifting into 5th if i shift really fast but if i pull it out of 4th and wait a second it goes in fine
it also grinds when trying to shift back into first from anyhting above 10mph
these are both bad syncros
if the clutch isnt disengaging you will have problems shifting through every gear not just 1 or 2 out of 5
my last trans had no probllems at all as far as shifting and i havnt touched the clutch so i know its the trans
it also grinds when trying to shift back into first from anyhting above 10mph
these are both bad syncros
if the clutch isnt disengaging you will have problems shifting through every gear not just 1 or 2 out of 5
my last trans had no probllems at all as far as shifting and i havnt touched the clutch so i know its the trans
#39
Originally Posted by subs1000w
it also grinds when trying to shift back into first from anyhting above 10mph
Mine also doesn't like to go into second gear :-/
right now a smooth, easy shifting tranny is my idea of perfection
edit: It is also funny, Sometimes I swear my tranny shifts smoother when its cold than when its warm.
#40
ok i dont think im having a any clutch or shifter mount problems, its my 2nd gear sycroniser, (i think)
if i shift out of first and wait a quick sec. before shifting to second it shifts perfect without any small click or grind.
what do you think this would this cost me if i wanted to get it fixed? of couse i wouldnt be pulling the tranny apart myself, but i could take it out and drop it off at a tranny shop.
any advice?
if i shift out of first and wait a quick sec. before shifting to second it shifts perfect without any small click or grind.
what do you think this would this cost me if i wanted to get it fixed? of couse i wouldnt be pulling the tranny apart myself, but i could take it out and drop it off at a tranny shop.
any advice?