Trying to figure this out, if its something easier than a complete transmission swap that would be great but I'm skeptical of that.

Car is a '91 Maxima, V6, 4 spd automatic, sunroof, fog lights, spoiler... I paid $150 for the car, its in pretty nice shape, but won't move. When started and shifted into any gear, forward or reverse, it doesn't move, engine doesn't slow down like it has had load applied. I have confirmed that it is not the linkage from shifter to transmission as "park" keeps the car from rolling down hill and neutral allowed it to be moved to the garage.

As I understand it all the gears went out at once but I don't know if that was when the car was driving around or if that happened when the car was started and about to be moved.

The trans fluid is the correct color, doesn't have any obvious particular contaminates, doesn't smell burnt and while I couldn't check level, there was some on the bottom of the dipstick, not excessively low.

One of my friends suggested torque converter failure but I don't know how to test that idea.

Any ideas, anyone? I have a second junkyard transmission for it but would like to know what caused this...and hey, if I could change out parts without swapping the whole tranny it would be easier on me and less time without a car....otherwise help with diagnosis would be appreciated.

 

Suppose the oil pressure can be tested.

Its also all electronics: TCU has the last word by controlling the solenoids in the tranny. Voltage present?

TCU physical location: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

 

do a line pressure check as suggested above.
also check to make sure that the converter is even bolted to the flexplate.

 

Okay, I can probably get ahold of a transmission line pressure tester, but which port do I uncap to plug it in?

 

pick one..

 

this same deal happened to my mom's minivan..01 chysler town and country, the torque converter clutch was flaking after only 50000 miles(stupid chysler!), and it blocked atf passages, and all the gears locked up because of overheating...but you said the fluid is fine? i dont know then, but i guess that i would check that

 

Here is the auto trans self diagnostic proceedure from the FSM.
It refers to the power light which is in the switch on the console in front of the shift lever.

1 – Start engine and warm it up to normal engine operating temperature.
2 – Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position.
3 – Set A/T mode switch to “Auto” position.
4 – Set overdrive switch to “ON” position.
5 – Move selector lever to “P” position.
6 – Turn ignition to “ON” position. (Do not start engine.)
7 – Does power indicator lamp come on for about 2 seconds?

If no 2 second light, check A/T control unit.

If power indicator lamp comes on for 2 seconds, do next test.

1 – Move selector lever to “D” position while depressing brake pedal.
2 – Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position.
3 – Set overdrive switch to “OFF” position.
4 – Turn ignition switch ”ON” (Do not start engine) and wait at least 2 seconds.
5 – Move selector lever to “2” position.
6 – Set overdrive switch to “ON” position.
7 - Move selector lever to “1” position.
8 – Set overdrive switch to “OFF” position.
9 – Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it.
10 – Check power indicator lamp for flashing pattern.

The light will do a series of 10 flashes, watch for a flash
that is longer than the others.

No flashes – Inhibitor switch, overdrive switch or throttle position switch
is disconnected or the A/T control unit is damaged.

All flashes the same – self diagnostics ran OK.

Flash 1 longer – Revolution sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 2 longer – Vehicle speed sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 3 longer – Throttle position sensor circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 4 longer – Shift solenoid valve “A” circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 5 longer – Shift solenoid valve “B” circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 6 longer – Overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 7 longer – Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 8 longer – Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or
A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged.
Flash 9 longer – Engine speed signal circuit shorted or disabled.
Flash 10 longer – Line pressure solenoid valve circuit shorted or disabled.

 

$150? what a deal, moving or not.

 

Yeah, its actually in pretty nice shape. Has a little rust along the wheelwell in back, but paint is pretty good, sunroof, fog lights, nice tires, 3 fitipaldi rims (4th saw the bad side of a curb a few months ago). Leather seats, power everything, remote start....only thing its really missing is a stereo but for $150 I can afford to dump some cash on a deck (especially considering how much I *won't* be dropping in gas for my other driver, a '72 3/4 ton chevy truck).

I want to swap a manual in it at some point this summer when I have more time to spend in the shop....can someone point me to any threads about manual swaps in the 3rd gens?