Wobbly Rotor...i think
#1
Wobbly Rotor...i think
Ok guys...I'm stuck.
Summary - Front right makes a rubbing sound and makes the car pull more to the right....
About a month ago I had to put new bolts in my front right hub because they sheared off. Yesterday I replaced the cv joint on the front left side. While doing this noticed that there was a washer behind the axle nut and in front of the hub (left front side), also the hub wouldnt come off at all. BUT, on the front right side there was no washer and the hub came off very easily, regardless of there not being a washer. I went to pep boys a few mins. ago and got a new washer for the right side. I thought that the washer would put pressure on the hub and rotor and it still makes that sound and pulls the car right.
So im not sure if it really is the rotor making the sound or if it is something else now.....
Summary - Front right makes a rubbing sound and makes the car pull more to the right....
About a month ago I had to put new bolts in my front right hub because they sheared off. Yesterday I replaced the cv joint on the front left side. While doing this noticed that there was a washer behind the axle nut and in front of the hub (left front side), also the hub wouldnt come off at all. BUT, on the front right side there was no washer and the hub came off very easily, regardless of there not being a washer. I went to pep boys a few mins. ago and got a new washer for the right side. I thought that the washer would put pressure on the hub and rotor and it still makes that sound and pulls the car right.
So im not sure if it really is the rotor making the sound or if it is something else now.....
#6
By the way what is a wheel seal and or what is its purpose?
What could be the reason that the left hub wouldn't come off at all, and the right hub just slide off and I took off the axle nut..?
But whichever one, the hub or the rotor is wobbly, and is making a rubbing noise...and i can also feel the rubbing vibration off of the gas pedal.
What could be the reason that the left hub wouldn't come off at all, and the right hub just slide off and I took off the axle nut..?
But whichever one, the hub or the rotor is wobbly, and is making a rubbing noise...and i can also feel the rubbing vibration off of the gas pedal.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
ok first of all.. did you get a wheel allighment? maybe thats why your being pulled to the side, and the rubbing might be a different problem all together. And second, do you get any kind of noise when this "rubbing" occurs. Like a "wooshing" noise maybe?
#9
yes indeed i do..not so much a wooshin sound but sort of a constant grinding noise, with a rotation. As the wheel rotates thew noise backs off then gets louder then backs off again in a continual pattern.....helpful? lol
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
well, im not an expert.. but from what it sounds like, your "hub bearing" is no good. i am speaking from experience, since I had this sense of rubbing going on too, when mine went bad. A hub bearing is this thing on the axel I believe and it makes the axels spin freely. and if something goes wrong with that hub bearing it will start making that sound. I also believe it might start pulling to the side a bit if Im not mistaken if you leave it messed up like that for too long, because mine started to pull during the time of the hub bearing issue. could be related. not sure. maybe somebody who has a bit more experience with this can help out. try 4DSC.com.. they can be helpful sometimes. And also the thing you said before about you having trouble taking the hub off.. hey, sometimes things get really old and rusted over time and aren't too fun to take off. maybe that was the case. ask around somemore, but im pretty sure it is the hub bearing on the side where you here the noise coming from.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
i drove around with that annoying noise for about 2 months until I could get enough money to fix it. I would do it myself but I just don't have the resources tools, garage, etc. If you do, you might be better off doing it yourself. Just find out how first. It's not hard. Took the mechanic about 40 minutes to do.. Would have been faster if he wasn't talkin so much. The process didn't seem hard, he took off the wheel, unscrewed some bolts and popped out the hub bearing. I remember him doing some stuff at the "work table" to it. And he pressed the bearing in with a massive hammer from what I remember. He did look like he had some trouble, so your friend might be right about it being un-fun. Im not sure how much the part alone is, but all together I paid $120. Might be a rip off, who knows. :-/
#14
Originally Posted by mtnbikeair
Buy a Blemco rotor, the worst that happens is it doesnt fix it, you supported a good guy and have an awesome looking rotor.
op- you may have a warped rotor which will look smooth but still in reality be wavey.
#16
See my "other" reply....
You can't really do a wheel bearing 100% yourself without some big tools and a press for the bearing. You have to tighten (and undo first) the axle nut to 200 ft-lb, but I assume you've done this already with your other repairs. You could always remove everything yourself, take the new bearing and hub to a shop and get them to replace it, and then take it home and put it back in. You probably should get a wheel alignment afterwards because you have to undo the two bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle. I paid to have it done because it was freezing out, the noise was iritating, and I really didn't feel like taking everything apart a second time.
No, I wouldn't jack it up and try just spinning it by hand. You probably won't be able to tell very much that way. You could try driving it up on stands at home, but it's kind of dangerous. (Again, see "other" reply.)
You can't really do a wheel bearing 100% yourself without some big tools and a press for the bearing. You have to tighten (and undo first) the axle nut to 200 ft-lb, but I assume you've done this already with your other repairs. You could always remove everything yourself, take the new bearing and hub to a shop and get them to replace it, and then take it home and put it back in. You probably should get a wheel alignment afterwards because you have to undo the two bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle. I paid to have it done because it was freezing out, the noise was iritating, and I really didn't feel like taking everything apart a second time.
No, I wouldn't jack it up and try just spinning it by hand. You probably won't be able to tell very much that way. You could try driving it up on stands at home, but it's kind of dangerous. (Again, see "other" reply.)
#18
Probably nothing.... just different suppliers. I would get the Beck/Arnley one though, since I know Matt once bought a BCA replacement tranny bearing and it looked pretty cheap.
EDIT: Eh??? What happened to the last post? Oh well, that's my opinion anyway.
EDIT: Eh??? What happened to the last post? Oh well, that's my opinion anyway.
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pmas76
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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03-02-2003 08:40 AM