Window tinting
02-03-2005, 04:39 PM
#1
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Window tinting
I want to get a light tinting on my windows. Like the kind where you can still see the outlines of the people inside. The kind where you get a nice light black window color. Is window tinting something that i should even try by myself, or just leave it up to the pro's?
02-03-2005, 05:13 PM
#4
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well you're in NC. they may charge anywhere from $120 on up. i live in MS and this guy that i know is a PRO tinter and he does the best tint jobs you will ever see for about $90. the law is 35% here but i think i'm going with 20%. and only try to ride in the day(lol) but it varies. just do alot of research on prices and how well they may do the job. u probably tint better yourself and save about $60. but that just my 1994 maxcents.
02-03-2005, 06:00 PM
#5
Originally Posted by magicdonjohn
well you're in NC. they may charge anywhere from $120 on up. i live in MS and this guy that i know is a PRO tinter and he does the best tint jobs you will ever see for about $90. the law is 35% here but i think i'm going with 20%. and only try to ride in the day(lol) but it varies. just do alot of research on prices and how well they may do the job. u probably tint better yourself and save about $60. but that just my 1994 maxcents.
Not sure how it is in Cleveland but here in Meridian the police dont really worry about it unless its like 5% or something and then they usually dont give you a ticket or hassle you about it. If they pull you over for something else they may mention its a little dark or something but usually wont give you a ticket.
I like 20% and think its a good compromize between dark and ability to see at night.
02-03-2005, 06:17 PM
#7
I have 35% on mine, since that's the lowest I can go in Houston. I took the old tint off myself (with a lot of paper towels, razor blades, and windex) and the tint shop charged me $108, for 4 windows. You're going to have to find out the limitations your state/city have on tint level.
02-03-2005, 06:27 PM
#8
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Well i actually dont want it really dark, i like the light tinting, but for 108 they did 4 windows... i wonder how hard it would be to do the back window because of the defroster, do you think that would cause a problem anyone?
02-03-2005, 07:26 PM
#10
Originally Posted by mtnbikeair
Well i actually dont want it really dark, i like the light tinting, but for 108 they did 4 windows... i wonder how hard it would be to do the back window because of the defroster, do you think that would cause a problem anyone?
the tint you buy from the local parts store is extremely poor in quality. pro quality tint comes in 100ft rolls...probably more than the price of 1 tint job.
defroster is not a problem...the curvage of the window is. 1 piece is possible with heat shrinking/dry shrink but it's extremely difficult. 2 pieces is possible but butting the ends is a PITA because if you cross the line in your cut that defroster line is gone.
cliff notes: GO TO A PRO...PAY THE GUY $150-$200 FOR A "QUALITY" TINT JOB.
02-03-2005, 07:42 PM
#11
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yea if u want that get 35%...thats what i got. mine was 200 done about 2 years ago in mass. looks nice but i want darker.
no the defroster will not be a problem but i tinted out my friends corrola once just for fun with wal mart tint and the sides came out nice but the back was a b****...had to cut it in strips...but whatever that car is junk anyways lol
no the defroster will not be a problem but i tinted out my friends corrola once just for fun with wal mart tint and the sides came out nice but the back was a b****...had to cut it in strips...but whatever that car is junk anyways lol
02-03-2005, 09:44 PM
#12
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Here are some PICS of my car with 35%. I paid $160 to have it professionally done. The tint goes all the way to the edge of the glass (no gap when you roll down the window) and the back window is one piece.
Also the color of your interior will make a dif in how dark the tint "looks." My interior is Black/Dark Gray, so it looks a liltle darker than if it was tan.
Also the color of your interior will make a dif in how dark the tint "looks." My interior is Black/Dark Gray, so it looks a liltle darker than if it was tan.
02-04-2005, 06:25 AM
#13
Originally Posted by mtnbikeair
I want to get a light tinting on my windows. Like the kind where you can still see the outlines of the people inside. The kind where you get a nice light black window color. Is window tinting something that i should even try by myself, or just leave it up to the pro's?
You are a fool!
you keep asking about all these mods that you want to do to your car, but you said your car is using a QUART of oil PER TANK!
save your money and fix your motor.
Everything else is just throwing money down the toilet until the car gets back to good running condition
02-04-2005, 06:41 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
I'm going to say something that I rarely say.
You are a fool!
you keep asking about all these mods that you want to do to your car, but you said your car is using a QUART of oil PER TANK!
save your money and fix your motor.
Everything else is just throwing money down the toilet until the car gets back to good running condition
You are a fool!
you keep asking about all these mods that you want to do to your car, but you said your car is using a QUART of oil PER TANK!
save your money and fix your motor.
Everything else is just throwing money down the toilet until the car gets back to good running condition
02-04-2005, 07:02 AM
#15
Depends on how skilled you are.
it'll probably be cheaper / easier to get a motor imported from japan with theoretically low mileage on it.
I'd still rather go to a local yard that will run the motor in the car for me so I can check everything.
and whatever way you decide to go, change the timing belt.
it'll probably be cheaper / easier to get a motor imported from japan with theoretically low mileage on it.
I'd still rather go to a local yard that will run the motor in the car for me so I can check everything.
and whatever way you decide to go, change the timing belt.
02-04-2005, 07:05 AM
#16
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Im more concerned about cheaper, if its hard that means it will be more bonding time for me and my Max, but i guess now i have to research where i can find the cheapest/most inexpensive rather, engine
02-04-2005, 07:15 AM
#17
the first thing is to figure out why the car is burning oil.
Valve seals?
Piston rings?
Leaking head gasket? <- highly unlikely
Valve seals would be the easiest.
now go get an FSM and start diagnosing.
Valve seals?
Piston rings?
Leaking head gasket? <- highly unlikely
Valve seals would be the easiest.
now go get an FSM and start diagnosing.
02-04-2005, 09:19 AM
#20
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so say i decide to rebuild the engine i have, is there anyway i can get more performance out of that engine then what would have come from the factory? My feelings are if im going to do alot of work why not try and make it even faster you know?
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02-05-2005, 07:50 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 212
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I'm going to say something that I rarely say.
You are a fool!
you keep asking about all these mods that you want to do to your car, but you said your car is using a QUART of oil PER TANK!
save your money and fix your motor.
Everything else is just throwing money down the toilet until the car gets back to good running condition
You are a fool!
you keep asking about all these mods that you want to do to your car, but you said your car is using a QUART of oil PER TANK!
save your money and fix your motor.
Everything else is just throwing money down the toilet until the car gets back to good running condition
02-05-2005, 07:52 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 212
Originally Posted by mtnbikeair
so say i decide to rebuild the engine i have, is there anyway i can get more performance out of that engine then what would have come from the factory? My feelings are if im going to do alot of work why not try and make it even faster you know?
02-05-2005, 07:56 PM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 212
I have a replacement driver's door which I have gutted (had broken window regulator, and my busted door has one that's going bad) completely to paint, so I removed the window glass from the car. I was wondering:
Since the glass is outside on a table, would it be hard to tint this sucker? I mean, Can I just use a large piece of tint, put it on the window, and afterwards, razorblade around the edges of the glass to get that, nice "edge-to-edge" factory tint look (of my pathfinder)?
Since the glass is outside on a table, would it be hard to tint this sucker? I mean, Can I just use a large piece of tint, put it on the window, and afterwards, razorblade around the edges of the glass to get that, nice "edge-to-edge" factory tint look (of my pathfinder)?
02-05-2005, 08:02 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Pyrophilus
I have a replacement driver's door which I have gutted (had broken window regulator, and my busted door has one that's going bad) completely to paint, so I removed the window glass from the car. I was wondering:
Since the glass is outside on a table, would it be hard to tint this sucker? I mean, Can I just use a large piece of tint, put it on the window, and afterwards, razorblade around the edges of the glass to get that, nice "edge-to-edge" factory tint look (of my pathfinder)?
Since the glass is outside on a table, would it be hard to tint this sucker? I mean, Can I just use a large piece of tint, put it on the window, and afterwards, razorblade around the edges of the glass to get that, nice "edge-to-edge" factory tint look (of my pathfinder)?
sure I have done it a couple of times. The biggest thing is to to make sure the window is really clean. When I have done tinting I always clean it with a non amonia cleaner and razor blade then use just water and a razor blade. That gets the window nice and clean. Also I am sure you know but you cant just put the tint on there. You need a solution to spray on the window so the tint can be moved and squeegied on. I have used a mixture of baby shampoo and water but they sell a pre made mixture now that is pretty cheap at wal mart and most parts stores.
02-05-2005, 08:40 PM
#28
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Posts: 212
Originally Posted by awsm66
sure I have done it a couple of times. The biggest thing is to to make sure the window is really clean. When I have done tinting I always clean it with a non amonia cleaner and razor blade then use just water and a razor blade. That gets the window nice and clean. Also I am sure you know but you cant just put the tint on there. You need a solution to spray on the window so the tint can be moved and squeegied on. I have used a mixture of baby shampoo and water but they sell a pre made mixture now that is pretty cheap at wal mart and most parts stores.
I knew about the baby shampoo and water, but I didn't know that they had pre-mixed solutions. Thank you very much for the info.
Another question. I have industrial strength glass siliconizer (will withstand in DNA gel plates which has 1600V of electricity and around 100degree salt solution). I know that Mercedes Benz have siliconized glass. Do you think maybe I should try siliconizing the ouside of the glass now that it's off the door? I guess i'll be like Rain-x, but 1000 times stronger... it's just that once on, it's kinda hard to remove, so if it messes up (as in making it hard for water to bead and actually ruin visibility), it'll be pretty hard to remove it (i guess i can dip them in nitric acid again). Just wanted to know if anyone thinks I am crazy or if this sounds like an okay idea...
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