High Mileage Advice
02-19-2005, 07:59 PM
#1
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High Mileage Advice
I have a 1993 SE with 230 K miles. The car has run very well with very little repairs, but I want it to last much longer. Is there anything special I should do for it now to make sure runs another 230 K?
02-19-2005, 10:50 PM
#5
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Check out for
- autotranny slipping (smooooth change); clean electronics connectors, fluid level
- add some critical grounding wires. Alt and distributor: lessens spikes in the system and prolongs electronics life span
- add Volt meter, oil pressure gauge to keep track of developments
- the sensors: Check periodically especially for possibly malfunctioning KS, that is a thing u dont 'feel or hear'.
- chassis cavities, bottom, wheel well [spring] should be sprayed with motor oil. Check out filling tube surroundings & rear belt attachement: theres a 'lifetime rust warranty' because of u good legislation... Oil is better than the reg treatment that sticks-stands-nests waterdroplets: oil spreads under moisture, even years after the actual spraying killing new rust startups.
- all fluids change belong to what internetautomator mentioned
Take a look at 'some' others at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
- autotranny slipping (smooooth change); clean electronics connectors, fluid level
- add some critical grounding wires. Alt and distributor: lessens spikes in the system and prolongs electronics life span
- add Volt meter, oil pressure gauge to keep track of developments
- the sensors: Check periodically especially for possibly malfunctioning KS, that is a thing u dont 'feel or hear'.
- chassis cavities, bottom, wheel well [spring] should be sprayed with motor oil. Check out filling tube surroundings & rear belt attachement: theres a 'lifetime rust warranty' because of u good legislation... Oil is better than the reg treatment that sticks-stands-nests waterdroplets: oil spreads under moisture, even years after the actual spraying killing new rust startups.
- all fluids change belong to what internetautomator mentioned
Take a look at 'some' others at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
02-20-2005, 02:25 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 446
and just fyi about the KS in case you didn't know: when it goes, the car lacks low end torque, i.e. it won't just get up and go. with 230k, i assume you must have had to get that changed anyway, but wanted you to know just in case.
02-20-2005, 06:30 PM
#9
Originally Posted by tdkeck
What is a KS, and how will I know if it is malfunctioning? It is not been changed, but I would like to know what to look.
02-23-2005, 06:19 PM
#13
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I checked my engine code. It is a VG not a VE.
There must be people out there with Maxima's of this generation that are VG engine with an automatic and have more miles (230 K) than I do. What kind of failures have you had? I would like to know what to expect and hopefully do something to prevent an expensive failure.
Who has the most number of miles on their car?
There must be people out there with Maxima's of this generation that are VG engine with an automatic and have more miles (230 K) than I do. What kind of failures have you had? I would like to know what to expect and hopefully do something to prevent an expensive failure.
Who has the most number of miles on their car?
IIRC there are some approaching 300K and some people have reported seeing others who are nearing 400K
02-23-2005, 10:33 PM
#15
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Location: EU Scandinavia
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Originally Posted by tdkeck
I checked my engine code. It is a VG not a VE. ... What kind of failures have you had? ....
Do you never READ? ...just writing questions...
If u do, then return up there:
Take a look at 'some' others at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
.
02-23-2005, 11:07 PM
#16
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 243
From what I understand and what other people have already said, a VG 92 or above with the automatic should last for a long time. Mine just crossed the 200k barrier and she still runs great accept for a fuel injector that is giving a rough idle. Wish I had the time, place and money to fix it but it's going to have to wait...
Something that hasn't been said is to get the timing belt replaced if you haven't done so already. I think they are good for 60k (I'm pushing my luck on my own car...) and while the belt is getting replaced do the water pump to because you already have half the work done.
Shocks and struts might be shot by this time to, find some good speed bumps and drive over them. If the car goes up and down more then twice you have issues. I took mine to Sears (yeah, yeah, yeah....) because they have a lifetime warrenty on all of their struts. It ended up paying off because the struts blew again a few years later but all I had to pay was the difference in price for newer struts, I think like 60 bucks or something which is a lot less then 400-500+.
The transmission is a risky thing. Some people say do a flush, other people say don't do it. The higher mileage trannys after a flush tend to slip a lot and die quicker if I remember what other people have said (correct me if I'm wrong). You can of course add a tranny oil cooler if you haven't done so already, that will help keep it happy.
Radiator flush might be a good idea if you haven't done so already. Make sure you add radiator fluid and not just straight water so it doesn't rust up on you.
Check all vacuum lines that you can, if they look old and cracked then replace them. Same goes for plugs and wires. Clean any of the grounds that you can find. Also, check the cap and rotor, they can be pretty fried and the car will still run but could be pretty rough.
Might as well replace the O2 sensor also as most people seem to say that it can do wonders, especially if you are getting low mileage.
Speaking of mileage, unless your driving pretty rough then you should expect to see about 400 miles or more per tank plus or minus 50 miles; so if your not getting that then you have some problems that need to be hunted down. Make sure you test your mileage by filling up the tank, driving and then refueling and seeing how much you put back into the car. My gas guage seems to be getting more and more unreliable as the car gets older, showing empty when fillng up says there was close to 3 or 4 gallons left. Tank capacity by the way is 18.5 gallons.
With that said, there are plenty of people on here who know a heck of a whole lot more then I do.
Something that hasn't been said is to get the timing belt replaced if you haven't done so already. I think they are good for 60k (I'm pushing my luck on my own car...) and while the belt is getting replaced do the water pump to because you already have half the work done.
Shocks and struts might be shot by this time to, find some good speed bumps and drive over them. If the car goes up and down more then twice you have issues. I took mine to Sears (yeah, yeah, yeah....) because they have a lifetime warrenty on all of their struts. It ended up paying off because the struts blew again a few years later but all I had to pay was the difference in price for newer struts, I think like 60 bucks or something which is a lot less then 400-500+.
The transmission is a risky thing. Some people say do a flush, other people say don't do it. The higher mileage trannys after a flush tend to slip a lot and die quicker if I remember what other people have said (correct me if I'm wrong). You can of course add a tranny oil cooler if you haven't done so already, that will help keep it happy.
Radiator flush might be a good idea if you haven't done so already. Make sure you add radiator fluid and not just straight water so it doesn't rust up on you.
Check all vacuum lines that you can, if they look old and cracked then replace them. Same goes for plugs and wires. Clean any of the grounds that you can find. Also, check the cap and rotor, they can be pretty fried and the car will still run but could be pretty rough.
Might as well replace the O2 sensor also as most people seem to say that it can do wonders, especially if you are getting low mileage.
Speaking of mileage, unless your driving pretty rough then you should expect to see about 400 miles or more per tank plus or minus 50 miles; so if your not getting that then you have some problems that need to be hunted down. Make sure you test your mileage by filling up the tank, driving and then refueling and seeing how much you put back into the car. My gas guage seems to be getting more and more unreliable as the car gets older, showing empty when fillng up says there was close to 3 or 4 gallons left. Tank capacity by the way is 18.5 gallons.
With that said, there are plenty of people on here who know a heck of a whole lot more then I do.
02-24-2005, 08:08 AM
#17
I put 302,600 miles on my Max. Here's what I did to get it to last that long:
DON'T flush your transmission fluid. Add Lucas Transmission additive to it instead.
Add Lucas Power Steering additive to your power steering reservoir.
Use Pennzol synthetic oil and Fram filters, and change them every 3-4 months regardless of how many miles you drive.
Replace other filters and sensors when they become worn.
Replace wires when they become hard or cracked.
Use Bosch Platinum Plus-4 plugs and get a permanent K&N air filter.
Find a reputable mechanic who will replace the parts that wear out.
Do not use cheap gasoline or 87 octane. Use nothing less than high quality, mid-grade gasoline from companies like Chevron, BP, Shell.
Always keep your tank at least half full.
Never start your car and then turn it off without driving it for a few minutes. In other words, plan your trips so that you do not have to move your car unnecessarily.
Avoid parking on hills.
DON'T flush your transmission fluid. Add Lucas Transmission additive to it instead.
Add Lucas Power Steering additive to your power steering reservoir.
Use Pennzol synthetic oil and Fram filters, and change them every 3-4 months regardless of how many miles you drive.
Replace other filters and sensors when they become worn.
Replace wires when they become hard or cracked.
Use Bosch Platinum Plus-4 plugs and get a permanent K&N air filter.
Find a reputable mechanic who will replace the parts that wear out.
Do not use cheap gasoline or 87 octane. Use nothing less than high quality, mid-grade gasoline from companies like Chevron, BP, Shell.
Always keep your tank at least half full.
Never start your car and then turn it off without driving it for a few minutes. In other words, plan your trips so that you do not have to move your car unnecessarily.
Avoid parking on hills.
02-24-2005, 08:52 AM
#18
Originally Posted by dr-rjp
I put 302,600 miles on my Max. Here's what I did to get it to last that long:
DON'T flush your transmission fluid. Add Lucas Transmission additive to it instead.
Add Lucas Power Steering additive to your power steering reservoir.
Use Pennzol synthetic oil and Fram filters, and change them every 3-4 months regardless of how many miles you drive.
Replace other filters and sensors when they become worn.
Replace wires when they become hard or cracked.
Use Bosch Platinum Plus-4 plugs and get a permanent K&N air filter.
Find a reputable mechanic who will replace the parts that wear out.
Do not use cheap gasoline or 87 octane. Use nothing less than high quality, mid-grade gasoline from companies like Chevron, BP, Shell.
Always keep your tank at least half full.
Never start your car and then turn it off without driving it for a few minutes. In other words, plan your trips so that you do not have to move your car unnecessarily.
Avoid parking on hills.
DON'T flush your transmission fluid. Add Lucas Transmission additive to it instead.
Add Lucas Power Steering additive to your power steering reservoir.
Use Pennzol synthetic oil and Fram filters, and change them every 3-4 months regardless of how many miles you drive.
Replace other filters and sensors when they become worn.
Replace wires when they become hard or cracked.
Use Bosch Platinum Plus-4 plugs and get a permanent K&N air filter.
Find a reputable mechanic who will replace the parts that wear out.
Do not use cheap gasoline or 87 octane. Use nothing less than high quality, mid-grade gasoline from companies like Chevron, BP, Shell.
Always keep your tank at least half full.
Never start your car and then turn it off without driving it for a few minutes. In other words, plan your trips so that you do not have to move your car unnecessarily.
Avoid parking on hills.
I didnt read all of your post but I saw something that caught my eye and wanted to respond...dont take these as attacks but just my experience.
DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS. They are junk compared to other high end filters.
I made the mistake before doing research and put a fram on my perfectly normal non VTC tick VE and it started ticking within a week. I kid you not. I used to use Fram on my V8s because everyone said they were the best (and maybe the ones for the SB chevy are different) so I put it on my VE. That was a huge mistake and I wish I had read and researched first.
Sure it may be a coincidence that it started ticking a week after I put it on. I had the car for about 2 months with no sound before that...changed oil and filter and started ticking within a week (probably less but cant remember exactly). I used good quality oil (castrol gtx)
Also I disagree with the not chainging the fluid in the transmission. That is an old wives tale for the most part. If its being held together by gunk then its going to fail anyway. I say get some good fresh lubrication in there for the gears and whatnot.
On my first GXE the fluid was brown and smelled burned (120K and probably never changed). I replaced it and my wife drove the car for 3 years without any problems (I changed it a couple of times as a matter of fact). I sold it about 2 years ago or so (maybe less) and I talked to the guy that bought it. He hasnt had any problems out of it either.
just my experiences.
02-24-2005, 07:32 PM
#20
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 9
I do have a SE and it is a 1993. After reviewing the owners manual it is clear the engine is a VE. The dealer in town had told me the engine was a VG and even wrote this in my manual. It makes me wonder about using the dealer for working on the car.
What is wrong with the Bosch 4+? I believe I have used these in the past.
I also a little concerned about using a K & N air filter. It would seem that these would allow more dirt to pass through, and I do drive on dirt roads at times.
What is wrong with the Bosch 4+? I believe I have used these in the past.
I also a little concerned about using a K & N air filter. It would seem that these would allow more dirt to pass through, and I do drive on dirt roads at times.
02-24-2005, 10:48 PM
#22
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 243
For the most part the VG is pretty dang reliable, the stuff that could fail on it is usually fairly easy and cheap to fix. The VE on the other hand has the VTC's which fail and can cost big bucks to fix. I'm not sure if there is anything else that fails on a VE. So, yeah, if you want an engine that will last you a long time without huge costs, the VG is the way to go. If you want power and all that jazz then the VE is your ticket, just don't complain when the VTC's die and they want 1500 bucks to fix emm.
As to dr-rip's part on the gasoline and using only mid grade gasoline this has been discussed many times before and there are many schools of thought on this. First of all, if the car doesn't need mid grade (not sure for a VE) then don't bother paying for it, because you are wasting money. Do some research on octane ratings, the higher rating doesn't mean it's better gas, just that it ignites at a higher temperature and is more suitable for turbo's and high compression engines.
As for grades of gasoline well that's a matter of preference. Yeah, some guy's swear by shell, cheveron, etc... Well, they can pay the extra 15-20 cents a gallon, maybe it's worth it to them and that's cool. However, using the stuff at your local el cheapo place isn't going to kill your car, no matter what the doom sayers say. I can say this because if that was the truth then millions of us cheap people who pay only for the cheapest gas available would be hitch hiking to work and not driving because the el cheapo gas station gas caused our cars to give up the ghost and die. However, I don't see dead cars and stranded drivers all over the roads so my conclusion is the gas at Rottin Robbies (actual gas station by the way) is ok. Sure it ain't the fancy stuff with all of the fancy buzz words, but it burns in my engine. This is not to say there aren't unreputable gas station owners that have a little green garden hose going to their under ground tanks but I have yet to see any proof of this either.
I know I'm just setting up a flame war here....
As to dr-rip's part on the gasoline and using only mid grade gasoline this has been discussed many times before and there are many schools of thought on this. First of all, if the car doesn't need mid grade (not sure for a VE) then don't bother paying for it, because you are wasting money. Do some research on octane ratings, the higher rating doesn't mean it's better gas, just that it ignites at a higher temperature and is more suitable for turbo's and high compression engines.
As for grades of gasoline well that's a matter of preference. Yeah, some guy's swear by shell, cheveron, etc... Well, they can pay the extra 15-20 cents a gallon, maybe it's worth it to them and that's cool. However, using the stuff at your local el cheapo place isn't going to kill your car, no matter what the doom sayers say. I can say this because if that was the truth then millions of us cheap people who pay only for the cheapest gas available would be hitch hiking to work and not driving because the el cheapo gas station gas caused our cars to give up the ghost and die. However, I don't see dead cars and stranded drivers all over the roads so my conclusion is the gas at Rottin Robbies (actual gas station by the way) is ok. Sure it ain't the fancy stuff with all of the fancy buzz words, but it burns in my engine. This is not to say there aren't unreputable gas station owners that have a little green garden hose going to their under ground tanks but I have yet to see any proof of this either.
I know I'm just setting up a flame war here....
02-24-2005, 11:43 PM
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Some comments:
- The low octane level increases gas consumption -IF- engine ign time becomes retarded from ping. Its not gas but the possible engine ECU response.
- Air filter has no connection with VTC; nothing wrong with FRAM -products. However, bad filter fabric [gets loose] may cause MAF failure.
Btw. Have not seen any real comparison tests done to filters, do you know a source? I dont trust in feelings although feelings may be true.
- The low octane level increases gas consumption -IF- engine ign time becomes retarded from ping. Its not gas but the possible engine ECU response.
- Air filter has no connection with VTC; nothing wrong with FRAM -products. However, bad filter fabric [gets loose] may cause MAF failure.
Btw. Have not seen any real comparison tests done to filters, do you know a source? I dont trust in feelings although feelings may be true.
02-25-2005, 06:09 AM
#25
Originally Posted by tdkeck
What is the VTC? What happens it fails?
VTC=Variable Timing Control. Basically it makes a noise similar to a gasoline engine with a bad need of a valve clearance adjustment.
02-25-2005, 06:23 AM
#26
Originally Posted by tdkeck
What is wrong with the Bosch 4+? I believe I have used these in the past.
you also aren't supposed to use them on a turbo car
02-25-2005, 08:39 AM
#27
Originally Posted by grey93SE
I don't believe VTC's fail. They just tick but are still functional
VTC=Variable Timing Control. Basically it makes a noise similar to a gasoline engine with a bad need of a valve clearance adjustment.
VTC=Variable Timing Control. Basically it makes a noise similar to a gasoline engine with a bad need of a valve clearance adjustment.
Also while they are ticking they are not working properly.
02-26-2005, 09:17 PM
#28
Originally Posted by adamis
As to dr-rip's part on the gasoline and using only mid grade gasoline this has been discussed many times before and there are many schools of thought on this. However, using the stuff at your local el cheapo place isn't going to kill your car, no matter what the doom sayers say....
Gas is like food: it may look and smell good, but that does not mean your stomach can handle it.
I'ved tried all kinds and grades of gas, and after 300K, I have a pretty good idea what my Max likes and does not like.
Maybe it's something idiosyncratic with one's particular car.
OR...maybe it's all in my head (gasket). :-)
02-26-2005, 10:57 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Wiking
Some comments:
- The low octane level increases gas consumption -IF- engine ign time becomes retarded from ping. Its not gas but the possible engine ECU response.
- Air filter has no connection with VTC; nothing wrong with FRAM -products. However, bad filter fabric [gets loose] may cause MAF failure.
Btw. Have not seen any real comparison tests done to filters, do you know a source? I dont trust in feelings although feelings may be true.
- The low octane level increases gas consumption -IF- engine ign time becomes retarded from ping. Its not gas but the possible engine ECU response.
- Air filter has no connection with VTC; nothing wrong with FRAM -products. However, bad filter fabric [gets loose] may cause MAF failure.
Btw. Have not seen any real comparison tests done to filters, do you know a source? I dont trust in feelings although feelings may be true.
no no no not Fram air filter....Fram oil filter is what I was talking about. Of course the air filter has nothing to do with the VTCs lol.
Check out the studies done on filters and fram is in the bottom for quality. Also check out the oil and lubricants forum on this site.
02-26-2005, 11:57 PM
#30
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 243
Maybe they just regulate the gas a little better here in California (course I don't know where dr-rip lives.)
The point of my argument is that if Walmart was actually selling crappy gas there would be a whole lot more cars then just one maxima that aren't running well. This isn't to say that Walmart didn't sell bad gas, but rather I would have to see other cars that bought the same gas at Walmart starting to run bad before I'd say it's Walmart.
In simple turns, 1 car out of 1000's getting gas at the same spot and not running well because of the gas doesn't mean much statistically, it's just an anomaly. If it was 100's of cars out of the 1000's then there would be some real evidence that Walmart is selling bad gas.
I'm not trying to say that what happened to dr-rip wasn't Walmart gas related but rather it's more likely a random incident then a pattern, not that I can't be proven wrong...
Course this is all getting a little off topic from what you can do for a high mileage maxima.
The point of my argument is that if Walmart was actually selling crappy gas there would be a whole lot more cars then just one maxima that aren't running well. This isn't to say that Walmart didn't sell bad gas, but rather I would have to see other cars that bought the same gas at Walmart starting to run bad before I'd say it's Walmart.
In simple turns, 1 car out of 1000's getting gas at the same spot and not running well because of the gas doesn't mean much statistically, it's just an anomaly. If it was 100's of cars out of the 1000's then there would be some real evidence that Walmart is selling bad gas.
I'm not trying to say that what happened to dr-rip wasn't Walmart gas related but rather it's more likely a random incident then a pattern, not that I can't be proven wrong...
Course this is all getting a little off topic from what you can do for a high mileage maxima.
02-27-2005, 12:47 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by awsm66
no no no not Fram air filter....Fram oil filter is what I was talking about. Of course the air filter has nothing to do with the VTCs lol.
Check out the studies done on filters and fram is in the bottom for quality. Also check out the oil and lubricants forum on this site.
Check out the studies done on filters and fram is in the bottom for quality. Also check out the oil and lubricants forum on this site.
Depends who orders Studies. Very typical in medical industry to have results ready before study: Please gimme a lead...
The oil filter is in maxima case best to have Nissan, like stickies say. Price is the same.
Air filter: have now one FRAM air filter with the white filterpaper from domtar ? dolbeau PM. Have garage full sheets of that; super quality paper, will not rip or lose particles to destroy MAF, mucho mejor than original nissan toiletpaper, no way around it. Even if u get that paper full wet, will not rip.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Anybody Wants stuttering engine? Buy *bosch* plugs...
What was the LAST sOUND of evolotion? *bosch* ...takeawalk or put the old Champions back. Keeps u smiling at -30 higway [that was with bros 4cyl engine].
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