I need to get this fixed afterall... when I start up the car, and try and shift the out of park, I always have to push down the "unlock" thign in front of the shifter. Ocasioanlly, if I tap my foot on the brake just right, it will unlock that way, but there are always clicking noises comming from the passenger sides door area..

How would I fix this?

Another thing is, does anyone know where there is a write-up for doing the ball joints, and is it a pretty difficult job, or would $180 be a good price to pay for it?

Thanks-

 

check the adjustment of the shift interlock solenoid. it may be out of adjustment (since you hear the click when you press the brake)
Ball joints are "easy"
you can do it in your driveway with some basic handtools, the only thing you may need that isn't basic is something to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle with (i.e. Pry bar or ball joint seperator)

 

oh yeah
I sell ball joints

 

Thank you-

I guess my next question would be how do you check the colenoid /adjust it? And also, would that information be in a haynes manual or nissan FSM (was going to buy one, some people say it's inbcredibly useful, others say it didn't help)?

Yeah, your ball joints say:
Generic: Lower Ball Joint $17ea
Moog: Lower Ball Joint $32ea

(and shipping say $15 to 85236! [$10 shipping for a spark plug]

Whats the difference between the two, and is there any place with a write-up that you know off?
thanks (lookign through faqs now)(found one by bmw388 on the first page of matenience links! O:-) )

 

The FSM has a better chance of having the info rather than the Haynes manual.
My shipping isn't cheap, because that's where I cover my costs for packing material and accepting credit cards etc..
Some people prefer moog ball joints, but personally I've had no problems with the line of generics I'm currently selling.
Brian

 

Alright, I still need to find out/figure out how to adjust the solenoid, and also - I don't know which balljoint is bad on my car - there are upper and lower balljoints - all I know is that the mechanic last time showed me when the wheel turns sharp sometime, it kind of "comes out" of the ball joint, or moves around a bunch. (on the passenger side). Is there a way to tell if I need both, or just one?

Thanks-

~chris

 

there is no upper ball joint on ANY maxima

 

They're cheap and easy to replace ( like everyone said above) just do both sides if you're going to do it. If one is that bad, the other one is probably not far behind.

If you have an Autozone nearby they will rent you the ball joint separator for free.

 

Yeah, looking at craigs write-up, I guess not.. Sorry, just saw it when looking for the part - Craigs isn't using a pickle fork (which seems easier), but there's only one other write-up I found about how to do it, on the main page unnder maintenance.

Thanks internet automart!

And yelowd, that really helps! I was going to go by there, and try and ask about buying the "pickle fork", but if they might have one, than that works out really well.


And if anyone finds any info on adjusting/changing the solenoid, let me know, thats been bothering me for 2 yrs, and my friend with his "repo truck", also got me last night :-p (he actually works at a tow truck/repo company, and on the way back to the car, he thoguht it would be funny to auto hook me up - I almost didn't get it into reverse in time since the darn shifter unlocking thing has to be pressed down) :-p

 

you can always remove the solenoid completely.
the only funstion it serves is to make sure the brake is pressed when shifting out of park.

 

Good idea - I just didn't know if you had to bypass it somehow, or could remove it. Do you know which one it is/where it is? I think it's by the passenger door - there's two relays in there, but I am not positive (and I've decided to become a donating member, so hopefully after I donate, I'll be able to search, instead of asking so many redundant questions)

 

the solenoid is at the base of the shifter.

 

On the ball joints....


I would go buy an impact wrench, you should be able to find a decent one for about $30....then go to Home Depot and rent an air compressor for 4 hours.....another $20

Go to autozone and get a ball joint removal tool (free), and a 36mm axle nut socket, through their loan a tool program

Buy balljoints unless you're getting them from somewhere else ($40 for a pair)


Jack up the front end of the car
Remove the tires
Use the impact gun to remove the 3 nuts that hold the ball joint to the bracket (they are located just behind the hub on the bottom)
Remove the cotter pin on the axle nut, and remove the axle nut with the impact wrench
Now it should be easy to remove the ball joint, by pulling the axle away from the hub, you may need the removal tool, I used it, again with the impact wrench, to push it out
Put new ball joint in place, and replace the 3 nuts (don't tighten them all the way
Put the axle back into the hub, and replace axle nut (torque properly, NEVER tighten bolts with the impact wrench)
Tighten ball joint nuts
Replace tires, and lower car
Get an alignment
Save about $90 (and get an impact wrench out of the deal)

This CAN be done without an impact wrench, but IMO, it is a major pain in the a$$ to do it that way.

This should take you 30 minutes per side, tops.

 

I may do that tommorrow if I can't get it today... but does anyone know if there is a way to remove the ball joint without removing that huge axel nut? I was trying to remove it manually, but the "cheater bar" I was using (like inch think solid cheap aluminum possibly steel) is bending at where it connects into the socket.

Any ideas of not having to remove it? O:-)

Thanks

 

You should get the facotry service manual. It has all the diagnoistic procedures. I have the same problem with mine 1990 SE. The solenoid is directly at the base of the shift stick. I have to remove the center console to get to it. I went through all the procedures and still could not fix it. I believe my problem is in the wiring harness. My BOSE stereo system does not work and my Cruise Control does not engage.

 

Assuming you have a fleet farm or maybe a northern tool, go buy a real breaker bar... Anybody who sells tools to truckers will have the reall stuff. Mine is about 2 1/2 - 3 feet long. Pops that 36 mm like it was nothing. I have a air tools as well, but I just used the breaker bar on the three bolts for the ball joint.

 

What does the selenoid look like? I now have a FSM on cd :-D Looking through all the brake information..

 

for balljoints, you'll need to get yourself a nice large pickle fork and a large hammer to slap it or reasonable side metal pipe to pry it with. just keep in mind once you start messing around with it, there is no turnning back. you must finish the project

 

Well, like I said, you can use pickle forks and breaker bars, but not only does using the air gun make it easy to take bolts off, moving the axle gives you a clear open path to the ball joint, and saves you a whole bunch of time and effort (IMO)....I say un-a$$ the $50, and keep the air gun for the next time you have to take off bolts that have been intact since the early 90's.

 

I like to "rent" from walmart, you know the people who make billions every year and pay their employee jack. they return just about anything.